bustle

The question about the prices is a much asked one up here. Our last local radiator shop closed when the owner retired and I haven't found another one yet. As most new rads aren't rebuildable I never even checked it out. Our economy is hot and most service shops are busy with industrial stuff and labor rates are stiff so I am guessing it would be 85 to 90 % of a new one. I know for a relatively common North American ones you can usually buy a new rad cheaper than recore it if you are just looking at the lower end of the product line.

90% of the sellers won't ship to Canada those that do only use UPS. UPS charges a minimium of $50 for brokerage fees. Takes 15 to 30 days depending on how fast custom's is unless you pay the extra $100 to have it shipped by air in which case it is 5 to 15 days depending on Customs. Plus when it goes by air it can only come into Canada at two cities. So a part that is 500 miles away can travel about 1500 by air to get here. I know this because I tried a while ago to get one of those good deals on a radiator that someone posted on the Ult Sub web sites. Online parts only work good here if you are working on a long term project. Then save up and ship enough stuff to make it worth while to pay the minimium brokerage fee or use USPS as the price is not bad but it can be reallllllly long getting through customs (sometimes) some times only a few days.

1988 GL Wagon 5 speed 4x4 1800 OHC non turbo. I had a switch that controlled the wire coming from the "position" fuse a red wire with white stripe. I never figured out what it was for. Someone suggested the car won't run without a fuse in that slot so the it must be by passed somewhere. Can anyone tell me what it is actually for? Thanks.

We must think alike. I did check the fan direction before I finalized the hook up and upgraded the wire size. The wire is not getting warm. I also wired it into the 15 amp fuse as a double precaution. I am going to stop and get a lower thremostat on the way home today and flush the system. The car is not worth enough to bother replacing any major parts like radiators etc. Normally I would have hard wired it to the key but the need for heat in the winter far outweighs the need for cool in the summer around here.

Must be bypassed somewhere else. The fuse is out right now and it runs fine.

O.K. it was an aftermarket switch and was used to interrupt the circuit that came from the fuse box labeled as ""position"' red wire with white strip. I couldn't find that in my manual. It has been off all the time, any one know what its for? I used the switch to power the fan and my heating problems are greatly reduced but it wasn't extremely hot today so I will likely drop the thermostat to a 180, its a 195 now. The fan kept the engine at the 1/2 way point with the air on. When I turned off the switch and let it build up to almost the red, it cooled it down to about 3/4 but wouldn't bring it back to the 1/2 way mark so I think I have a way to go. I tried to adust the timing back but the disributor is frozen in place. A light taping with a bar and hammer didn't loosen it so a new plan is required.

Sorry 1988 GL Wagon 5 speed 4x4. I would like to be able to turn off the electric fan as its fine 95 % of the time, need the heat in winter up here.

I have an illumated (red) switch on the left hand side of the steering column just behind the light stalk. It lights when I turn it on but other than that I can't figure out what it does or is supposed to do. I can't find it in any of my literature. I want to hard wire the cooling fan to this switch if it is not used for something else. We have had unusally long periods of hot weather and it is running pretty hot and that fan is still not kicking in. Another weird thing on my car is there is a parking light? switch on the top of the steering column. If I turn it off it shuts of all the rear parking lights. Is that normal? I think the system has been modified to having daytime running lights as I am in Canada and the car is originally a US model. So the lights come and go with the ignition. Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks.

Not many in the salvage yards and they were all major toasted. All were worse than mine which has no 1,2 or 3 speed. At least mine isn't compositng like most of them.

Anyone have an online source (88 loyale). Napa Canada has none and the independent parts place says they are discontinued in all their books. Thanks

If you have a good floor jack and the tools it should be a one day job. I did a clutch in about 5 hours having never worked on a Sub before but I do have good air tools in my garage. An extra pair of hands would have helped. Don't disassemble the drive shaft ( assuming you have 4X4). Just drop the center bearing and pull back and lay aside. Should have new split pins for the front shafts and replacement gaskets for the exhaust system and some new bolts for it. If possible get to carwash and wash of as much oil and dirt as you can. The upside of leaky Subs is the bolts usually aren't rusted in.

Thanks very much guys, they are know armed with some more intelligence to ask the right questions and some knowledge as to what the right answers could be.

Scary, that's the dealer talking to them. I thought it must just be valve covers but they are quoting $1500 Cdn. I think they are being hosed.

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