bustle

Usually hockey sticks up here. Again I was seeking an elegant but cheap.

towing world sells brackets to attach the tow bars. Just search their on line catalogue.

towing world sells brackets to attach the tow bars. Just search their on line catalogue.

Done and Done. Thanks guys. 15 minutes for one side, 2 hours for the other with lots more hammering. Appeared to be an original, just about ready for the ball to pop out it looked like. $46.00 bucks Cdn.

Thanks for all the tips. I have my own pickle fork and a 2# sledge so I think I am set. Also a torch should we break that bolt. ).

This looks pretty easy in the manual, is it really that easy? Thanks

This was what I was wondering. Any body try that? If unique, I wonder if the rivets could be drilled out and a generic strut put in, and re-riveted?

Is it possible to buy new generic struts and fit them or is this strictly a good used or factory new deal? Mine are O.K. for now but the previous owner said they won't hold in winter. Thanks

I finally got the new belts on and the air seems to work fine. I don't think I have ever had quite such a time putting on drive belts though. Thanks to all those that wished me luck. That seems to have done the trick.

My passenger door electric window switch is loose and floppy. I noticed the others are glued on. Is there a more elegant or correct solution. Thanks.

Hey, thanks very much, that was a big help. I likley would have never figured out the spout came out where it does. I can also look to see if I have the right clips. I also now know where the tire iron goes!

Through the forum I now have a rear washer container and pump coming. I would appreciate it if someone could send me a picture of what it looks like mounted in the vehicle so I do it properly. I don't even know if it is possible to get a decent shot. PM me for me email address. Thanks

If your engine is in good shape you will get little effect from mixing brands, you will always get some when mixing grades. Different manufacturers use different additives to achieve their signature, so you may notice some difference in detergent quality and over the long term in deposit build up. As to grade mixing. The viscosity rating for 10-30 means 10 weight viscosity at low temperature, 30 at high temperature. If I recall its at the freezing and boiling point of water. The SAE ratings do not specify how it gets there. So some oils have a straight line relationship between weight and temperature through these points, others are more curved. Also, the behavior beyond those points is not always on the same trend. This means if you blend in different ratios, with different manufacturers you can have different perfomance. As was stated earler most modern oils are pretty good and very shear resistant through a broad temperature range. Especially the synthetics. In the past sometimes the lighter blend would consume at a faster rate than the heavier. I don't know if this is still the case but I just stay away from blending unless its an emergency.

We have good news and bad news. The good news is that the compressor works and it appears that the only reason I have no A/C is that some rocket scientist removed the inner belt. You know, the one that is supposed to actually drive the A/C, so it was turning to slowly and the pulser shut it off. That took both the Chilton manual which had detailed diagrams of the belt paths and Haynes that explained the pulser. So I will get a belt and give it a whirl. I managed to coax it into running a bit(by feathering the on off switch) and it seems like the system is charged. The bad news? Its friggin snowing! I love living in the mountains, I love living in the mountains, I love.....

Thanks I am going to try that but I don't hold much hope. I think the system is likely depleted. I have found on domestic cars that the fuse usually blows when the system gets low.

Yes an E82 Wagon. Went in there this morning and low and be blowed if someone hasn't done a pumpectomy. I found the wire plug and hose but everything else is missing.

All right Subu-Guru's. How does the rear window washer thing work? I have a switch on the dash that activates rear wiper. I got a squirter thingy on the rear door. I looked in one of those rear compartments and find a hose that went up into the door but ended in the little compartment. How is this thing routed? Does it T into the front ones or is it supposed to have it's own stuff. The 3 repair manuals I have make no reference to it that I can find. Also, is there an aftermarket trick to get replacement hatch lifts? Or are we stuck with Factory replacements? Mine are O.K. for now but apparently don't work in winter. Is there a quota on stupid newby questions? Thanks all.

Nope the compressor is not cycling at all. That air conditioning was just cold mountain air. So I also suspect the system is out of refridgerent. That has to go back burner for a while then. We are two months away from any kind of summer anyway. Thanks for all the advice.

I have bought a manual off of Ebay hoping that will help but it will be a few days getting here. I am not panicked yet I was just trying to figure out what works and what doesn't before we trundle off somehwere. I do get cold air on normal but when I push in the max button the air seems warmer. All the fans etc seem to be working, I get good air flow. I did have the little lever down at my left knee set to "blue". I do suspect its "operator eror" rather than a system fault. Would there be a vaccum line/switch or similiar that needs to activate? Thanks for all the help folks!

I need a spring clip to retain the clutch cable (went sproing and I can't find it to match up) my Subaru dealer only has them as part of the cable assembly. Is there a source or a part number (yes I know I'm a cheapskate) ? Thanks. 88 Loyale GL 4wd.

O.K. so I am the proud owner of my first Subaru (88 GL wagon 4wd 5 spd non turbo). I put a new clutch in it and everything seems great except I am not sure how to run the A/C. The A/C works on "normal" but when I push the Max A/C button it doesn't seem to be working at all. Any tricks or tips? I have bought an owners manual off of Ebay but it will be at least 10 days getting here. This board has been a great help. thanks.

It might run hotter than normal too if the catalytic is plugging. Power loss is usually the one you notice first.

Try http://www.canadatrader.com[/url] or http://www.buysell.com.There are some decent looking cars for around 1,000 CDn. It costs about 160.00 cdn to get a broker to help you export it or you can do it yourself. As long as the car is more than 15 years old it shouldn't be a hassle. I just finished buying my first Sub. 88 GL with 210,000 miles (former California car). $900.00 Cdn with a weak clutch but the body and interior sound much better then the one you are looking at. Better off to start with something better I think. The cars that haven't been aircared in Vancouver often sell fairly cheap and if you can fix it yourself you will do great.