mcs

Thanks matey, thats obviously my problem then as new pump says 7 psi on the side. Strangely enough new 1-3 psi pump is cheaper than new damper. Ohh well, serves me right for not double checking before fitting. At least it ends with a cheap solution. Thanks again:banana:

fuel pump pressure issue on EA82, carb, auto choke, manual 4x4 (1987) I apologise for such a lame question but I replaced my fuel pump a while ago ( previous one dripped fuel ) but I have just noticed that when I'm on tick over my manifold vacume isn't constant and my exhaust smells a little rich. I believe that my needle valve is being over powered by the new fuel pump but I can't find a reference to say what the PSI should be. I bought a generic pump designed for cab engines which didn't specify PSI on it but I'm going to connect a gauge to it tonight and find out. If this is the case does anyone know of a place I can get a simple fuel restrictor, no bells or whistles, or is there anything I'm missing. I don't want to buy another pump unless I have too. Incase anyone is thinking, I had replaced the fuel filter a little while ago which is probably what caused the original fuel pump to malfunction in the first place.

So does that mean that its best to heat the coil before setting the choke position so when its cold it gives maximum reach and when warm returns to the chosen resting point ? USMB rules

I've always wondered why is there 12Volt at the choke, surely its just a spring that shrinks when it gets cold causing the lever to be pulled. :-\ in my brain this does not compute :-\

Cool, well for now I have resealed the O'ring and have used some gasget paste to ensure it doesn't blow again, I have also changed Rad Cap's. The bolt that holds the water pump metal pipe wasn't allowing it to go all the way in so I have made another hole in the plate and now the pipe goes all the way down. I guess I will have to watch this space and see what the future brings, I still want to replace the pump with an electrical one but I guess I will have to wait until I see an EA82 out on a bench to work out if its possible. Thanks to everyone that offered advise you have made a Sydney boy very happy :-)

OK well that makes sense I guess. I will replace the thermostat and the cap but if I can't replace the water pump with a electrical one I need a better way of securing the larger pipe. I feel like directly after the O ring it needs another seal like maybe a rubber heat shrink seal or even something like plumbers tape but definately something more than just gasget putty. I feal the need to seal it properly once and for all so its not an option. I just don't trust it.

I guess anything is possible, the cap was replaced about 6 months ago, This add's another question then, is there anywy of knowing what the water pressure is in the system. I also replaced the thermostat about 6 months ago, if that stayed shut could the pressure build up and blow. I'm in Australia so really I could just take it out, its not as if its ever cold over here It did blow in a spectacular way so maybe the pressure is responsible however I don't trust the water pump seal method on the larger pipe. I might talk to a plumber and see if I can get my hands on a water pressure meter.

My water pump is driving me nuts, I own an old 87 Sportswagon ( EA82 ) which is doing good apart from I can't seem to make it pump happy, Story so far, I have replaced the pump due to leaking around edge, discovered leak was due to damaged thread on bolts, 1 month later small outlet pipe leaked so had to remove air con etc to replace and now another month later its leaking again. I have just got home so I'm not 100% sure but from the angle its coming out it would appear that the O'ring has blown on the big pipe. I'm going insane. Does the pump simply offer an in and out service to pipes, if so there is nothing stopping me from taking off the pump and smashing it with a HUGE hammer and fitting an electric one with all new pipes. Please I'm begging for someone to tell me its OK - I want to put all my anger into it. Alternatively, is there anyway of securing the oil seal better, its already a new seal ( changed with the pump ), and it was fitted correctly ( to be best of my knowledge ). So in a nut shell - is there anything stopping me from fitting an electric pump ? or is there a better way to secure the O'ring seal ? Scoobies rule ( apart from the water pumps )

Definately high mileage, over 360,000 K's

Hi, I have an 89 sportwagon 1.8L EA82 carb'd engine which appears to be having an issue with the PCV valve, I have excessive oil on all plugs and it blows smoke when going down hill in low gear. I believe the valve isn't working and its stuck open but I can't prove it. When I block the pcv the engine stalls after a few seconds, I assume from a lack of Oxygen getting into the chambers. My gut feeling tells me that if I try to remove the PCV it will crack and I will ruin the inlet manifold, is it possible to simply add another inline PCV to the line and if so does anyone know the specs for the PCV. Everything else is dandy, I have thought about adding an oil catcher in line with the oil pickup but I don't think thats the end solution. The car also uses a bit more fuel than it should but I think thats expected if it has to balance excessive air flooding in from the PCV. Any ideas are appreciated

This seems too easy. Has anyone thought about simply using a large fuel filter or am I missing something ? No one has said anything about having to empty it out so I guess the liquid/debrie is minimal

Sounds like you have warped the head or blown out the head gasket ( or both ). If you can, do a compression check on the cylinders and just take off the head thats leaking. You can get the heads x-ray'd to show weaknesses then for only a few $ you will know if your head is dead.

Happy days are here. I fitted the new pump last night and my lady has told me that its all OK now, she can happily waste petrol while trying to boot it up a hill in the wrong gear. Thanks to everyone for their input, its really appreciated. New fuel pump cost me $60 AU and delivers 5 lb pressure.

OK, now I looked at the fuel pump last night with the car on tick over and noticed that it was running and stopping every second, like someone was switching it on and off quickly. Is this normal, I would have expected the pump would have stayed energised once the engine was running. I am going to try forcing a 12 volt supply from the side lights when I get home that way it removes the possibility of an unreliable supply. If that doesn't work then 10 mins later I will be out spending $$$ on a pump.

OK, I am going to buy a fuel pump and give it a go. I am in Sydney West ( Penrith ), does anyone know a good place to get a NEW pump. Most places I call have high pressure pumps. The manual says it only needs 20kPa (38 litre's per hour) is this right, I guess as long as the carb can stop the pressure I guess it doesn't matter if I go slightly over. Thanks to everyone for their input, this is my first thread and I must say everyone has been wonderful. Its really appreciated.

Replacing the fuel pump does seem to be a common thought in most of the people I have talked too. However they are $200 for a genuine one and $100 for a white box - I don't like scrap yard pumps because there is no guarentee that it works. I can't see it being the pump because it produces enough fuel to run the car when its cold and I can gun like a rocket when the engine has completely warmed up. I will add a glass filter at the top next to the carb, when it jumps around if it is the fuel then the chamber will be empty. Its worth a go I guess. Has anyone else had temperature related problems with the pump ?

Getting rid of my carb, although a nice idea isn't an option - especially now that I have had it rebuilt. All the filters, including the fuel filter at the tank have been changed. Fuel is good because it has been happening for several tanks and I always use decent garages ( BP etc ) Plugs are clean, no build up. I have changed the oil, rotor arm, leads, plugs, air filter, fuel filter and air freshner as just part of a normal service ( when I get my hands dirty I make it worth while ). Plugs are a little white but not enough to make me think anything overly strange. The worse thing about this is that when I get home and get in the car it will drive perfect because it isn't ice cold.

Hi its definately not the carb, I had that professionally rebuilt, cost me $300 AU, all jets were changed and tested all OK. The problem is more precise than that. It is every morning when the car is cold ( mist on the windows ). It starts and runs fine then a little while after the auto choke is off it mis-behaves badly. Then if you are gentle and keep driving very lightly without any steep hills it will come back to normal. If you start the car at lunch it is fine. Problem has to be related to a warming stage. This is why I am not sure about the ' hot idle compensator ', is it possible that when the car warms this is venting all the vacume in the inlet manifold - why would you ever want to release the inlet manifold vacume. Can anyone explain what ths device is supposed to do ? Ohh wo is me, ohh me, ohh my.

Sorry, normal carb ( Naturally asperated ) , no turbo or injection or anything flashy. ( carb model number is DCZ 328 551 ).

If anyone can explain this I will be impressed. OK, I have an old sportswagon ( EA82 ) which drives perfectly when fully warmed up and when first started in the morning, but there is a stage between warm and cold that makes the car almost un-drivable.:-\ Before you ask I'm in Australia so its not exactly cold here in the mornings but its cold enough to make the choke cut in. It jerks around like there is no fuel getting through although if you are very light on the gas you can drive it. It takes several minutes of gentle driving then it carry's on like normal. I have replaced nearly all the vacume hoses and have tested all the modules attached, they all work fine. The only thing I can think of is the ' hot idle compensator ' which is some kind of vacume vent. Now here is the question. Why would you want to vent all the vacume from the inlet manifold. Surely when the vent is open the air will rush into the inlet manifold and starve the engine of fuel. Unfortunately I am no where near the car and have limited access to it ( my partner won't let me touch it during the week incase it won't start in the morning - she uses it for work ).:-\ Any thoughts no matter how strange will be appreciated. Has anyone had this before.