hatchsub

Well yes and no. You did go the correct direction though (had me worried for a second). The idea is to adjust the clutch cable so there is just a bit of play in the clutch fork. I disconnect the hillholder cable (or spring on DL's) and adjust the clutch fork until there is just a bit of play...then i reconnect the hillholder and make sure that its pulling the clutch fork all the way back away from the clutch. That way the throw out bearing is not constantly riding on the clutch fingers.

Um am i reading this right that you tightened the cable so that its tighter? If so undo that and loosen it. You are inducing clutch slip if thats the case. Tightening the cable like that is the same principal as leaving your foot on the clutch just a bit.

Disregard this. Figured it out. It had come unhooked on the other end. I hooked it back up and all is well. Too bad i took apart half the dash when i could have just yanked a vent pipe under the dash to get at it. Oh well live and learn.

Just like the title says. I cant figure it out right now. I just pulled dash bezel off to check to see that it was still hooked up and it is up at the actual lever but it does nothing when i move it open or closed. Anything i should be looking for? Im going to look for the other end and hopefully not have to pull half the dash apart to fix this small little thing.

There are only two ports on the weber on the front. One probably has a screw in it so you can choose to use it or not. That one is for the EGR. You can put a block off plate on the EGR and run it without but i would recommend you keep it. It helps against detonation by lowering cylinder temps. You wont notice any power difference taking it out so i would hook it back up. The other port on the front (bigger one) is for the vacuum advance off the distributor. As for your broken valve..that has to do with the hitachi. Subaru had a complicated system of temperature activated valves to open up vacuum to certain areas and that was one of them. You dont need it with the weber so yank away.

That all depends on how perfect you want it again. To me it looks the sentra took the brunt of the impact. Your car looks like you got the front fender pushed in ever so slightly and the bumper messed up. If you want to fix it right it may need a new fender but id try to straighten that one first. These fenders are made of such thin metal you can bend them back by hand. And you will def need a new front bumper.

These are the most recent pics i have of it. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108102&page=3 Not sure u saw that.

Well i fixed it. Pulled apart both clusters and swapped around some stuff so the mileage is still right and the tach no longer sticks. Good times.

Got the leak fixed. There are two "tabs" that have springs at either corner in the front and both were adjusted all the way up. Slammed them down and took it for a spin. No more air leak. Not sure its water tight yet but will find out soon.

To add to this...if the trans is cold and hard to shift...double clutch it..that is... when going from first to 2nd let the clutch out in neutral and then push it back in and pull it into 2nd. You are effectively not using the syncros when doing this. I have gotten into the habbit of doing that in the winter when its very cold out as these transmissions had a habbit of crunching gears in 2nd and 3rd when cold even when new (i have the test drive article to prove it!). When the car is up to temp though you can shift like normal. I figure if its a bit harder on the clutch pushing it in twice as much so be it. Clutches are easier to get than new transmissions.

What weight gear oil are you using? I have found from trial that the lighter the weight the easier the shifting. Im using 75w90 right now. I think the book calls for 85w90 or more. If you are running heavy weight gear oil try some thinner stuff. It wont hurt it any and your shifts will probably smooth out a bit too.

Even if you cant get it to turn all the way but only enough to unlock the steering column your good to go. This is what happened with my current car...no keys so i had to start it with an old key i had. It got the steering column unlocked but could not turn it further. If you pull the lower trim on the column you will be able to access the back of the ignition switch. There will be two very small screws. Take those out and pull the ignition off the switch. Now u can turn it with a screwdriver. EDIT: ^ he beat me by two minutes but same idea. You can just start the car that way but u still need to unlock the column.

Im in there about once a day but 9 times out of 10 there is no one else there. Lots of people going in and finding no one only to logout.

Hey cool where did u add the shims? Up front under that lock mechanism or out back where the latch is?

damn. Gotta give connie a call. I think she said she had an extra one.

No cracks that i can see and its still soft. As for the water im assuming yes but not sure yet since i have only driven it for one day now lol.

Thats the thing i have another cluster that doesnt stick but id rather keep the right cluster (ie mileage) with the right vehicle. Though at this point i guess it doesnt matter since the engine has more mileage than the car. I might just end up doing it.

Bringing this one back. I have a sticky tach now and wondered if anyone solved this. My old sedan didnt stick but the coupe does. It doesnt stick until you hit 3500 rpms on the dot then it will get stuck and wont go higher or lower until you hit the dash and it will free itself. Very annoying.

anyone? New gasket needed? Idk im kinda at a loss.

The gasket looks good but for some reason i get a lot and i mean A LOT of air noise from the sunroof. Am i missing something here? I tried adjusting the latch at the back because it was left loose so i adjusted it snug but i dont want to go tighter than what i have it at now for fear of breaking the latch.

Hey I was visiting some family in Portland Maine and saw this down near the water. It was a silver EA82 GL Turbo touring wagon with full time 4wd. It was very clean for a Maine car. Just wondering if it was anyone on here? Sorry that i didnt snag a picture i was in a car with family and didnt feel like having them stop just for me to satisfy my curiosity.

Just got new window weather seals for a 69 camaro. Will let everyone know how they work out. Just looking at them they look the same but i wont know until i pull the existing ones out.

Wow that REALLY sucks. Im sorry to hear that. I cant believe that it got hit while in a closed garage. Its like their is a magnet for crappy drivers built into the car right now.

Yup im all set with that. Im just leaving it out for now until i put the carpet in and they everything is going back in. Thanks for the offer though bud .

Figured i would bring this one back from the dead. As some of you know i was having issues with the sunroof and such. Well i got that all taken care of along with all the bodywork it needed for now. I have it probably about 95% done (all thats left is the carpet once i figure out if the roof leaks along with stereo and center console). Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure. Thanks to all who helped and answered questions along the way. I took her for a spin down the road she ran GREAT. I cant wait to put some seat time in. Driving the camaro the past few weeks was fun (other than that warning from the cop) but i missed driving stick so much. So for starters here are the pictures of how i have the sunroof drains done. Id recommend anyone with a sunroof EA81 do this. There can be no good coming from water running on the inside of your rockers. And...here are the pictures of the car today! Needs a buff like crazy but shes all together.