hatchsub

this is kinda like that "tornado" advertised a few years back. They had an hour long infomercial for it and i just laughed. :lol:

RdNkBrt if your planning on putting it behind that panel i would advise against it. Amps need some air to stay cool and putting it in there would probably get it really hot especially on summer days and you run the risk of frying out the amp. I would just mount it to the outside of the panel if i were you. just my 2 cents.

hahahaha nice!! and i just checked the radar and have no idea where this snow they talk about is. I heard the same forcast and have my doubts.

hell i only have a 2wd suby and have never driven a 4wd one so i cant even imagine how nice they are in the snow. I live up at Uconn most of the year and it snows alot here (well for CT). One day they cancelled classes cause it was too "dangerous" to drive. I had to see how bad it was. Rt 195 hadnt even been plowed yet so there was 7-8 inches of snow that people had driven through. I ended up going above the speed limit the whole time (by 5 mph) and gripping the road with no problems. Even went so far as to stuff my car with three friends and go back roads bashing. Even drove by a cop taking a nap...lol. Moral of my long story...subys rock in the snow...even 2wd autos (soon to be manual).

damn those alloys make me miss my first subaru. I found a full set of those same alloys when i had my first car(of course not as nice as those ones). Too bad i sold them with the car. I do believe they are my fav subaru alloy design PS If anyone sees an EA81 light blue hatch with those wheels and plenty of rust/primer in Massachusetts you just found my old car.

how many miles on it? It might also be a matter of a worn ignition switch. Mine first subys was worn in such a way that i could only turn the key if it was not inserted all the way in. Play around with the key some more and you might get lucky.

+ 1 for intake gaskets. My old 86 EA81 had bad intake gaskets and ran like crap..like what your talking about..no power and bad idle. Also only get dealer gaskets..aftermarkets are junk.

hmmm any chance they would have 83 FSM's there too?

yea i have to agree..the 3 speed autos suck. Mine has problems going up long hills cause of the gearing and its got no low end. I get about 25mpg on the highway with it so i know the engines running about right. Its doing about 4 grand at 75 though so i would go 5 speed swap if i were you. As of now my car is torn apart for a 5 speed swap. Got almost everything i need and cant wait to shift my own gears. You'll regret the auto real quick.

Sweet..im really happy for you. Good luck getting everything else done. Hows it running now that you got the plugs and cap taken care of?

They worked for me...looks awesome..like any vehicle with 14,000 miles should

EA82's are overhead cam. EA81's are the overhead valve motors. You should get any EA82 heads that are either for carb or SPFI. As someone else said the turbo heads are different.

Sweet..yeah i love the EA81..this is my second and i would def buy another down the road if i could find one with a body that was in decent shape. I just got lucky with this one having only 52,000 miles when i got it. The only thing that i will never do is get another EA81 with an automatic. Im currently in the process of swapping my auto out for a 2wd 5 speed. Should be a little quicker after that. And by the way..600 posts now:grin::grin:

I might have just gotten lucky but my fuel gauge in my first suby didnt work either because it had sat for a few years before i got it. So i didnt do anything about it and just filled up when i thought i needed to and and one day it just started working again. My only guess was that the sending unit in the tank got all gummed up and driving it and putting fresh gas in ungummed it. I would just drive it for awhile and see what happens. Just be careful not to run out of gas.

would that rubber piece be called a rear tranny mount or something like that..just asking cause i need a new one. Oh and i guess i lucked out..there is a threaded stud there already..just need a new mount and a bolt and im all set.

One more thing..is there a special mount that keeps the shifter and linkage from falling down? the shifter and linkage is all on a pivot with bushings but its kinda floppy by itself. There is a rubber square at the back of it all ( behind the shifter). Did this used to be some way of securing it all? If so it looks as if i need one of these.

ok thanks guys. Ill probably post some pics up of the conversion in 3-4 weeks. I gotta go back to school on sunday night and the car gets to sit on jackstands from now until i return for winter recess. Oh and i was able to get the pedal assembly in without removing the column..wasnt too bad actually.

Hey GD you wouldnt happen to know if the radius rods themselves are any diff between stick and auto would you? Just want to make sure i have everything i need for sure this time.

Yeah thanks GD I knew i would run into some problems but at least i didnt run into many taking the tranny out. And 75subie might be going to harrys and will pull those plates for me if he does. Sweet!!

ok just went down to the trannys and looked. The crossmember dont even begin to line up with eachother..they are not even close to the same location on the transmisions. This sucks. I have a want ad posted in the forum but ill put it here too.. in need the radius rod plates asap

ok thanks guys for the info. I was comparing crossmembers and one bolt on each side of the manual crossmember looks like it lines up with the auto crossmember. Im not sure if they are located in the same place as far as distance from the engine though. I was hoping to get this car finished this weekend..now im lucky if i get it done this week To top it all off one of the studs broke off in my head when i went to take the exhaust off and then two studs just unthreaded all together. So i have to redo it again.

Radius rode plates? Im not sure i know what these are. Also as far as getting the car to start i understand that i have to jump the two wires but i noticed that there is a connector coming off of the clutch pedal. Could i wire this over to the starter wires on the inhibitor switch so that the car will only start with the clutch depressed?

wow gross..ive heard of the milkshake in the engine but not a chocolate milkshake

Hey everyone. I dug into my car today and the autocraptic is out now. I also struggled to get the pedal assemble out and finally did by unbolting the steering column. Now for the questions... 1) i havent gotten a chance yet but it seems that only two holes (one on each side) out of the four on the manual crossmember line up with holes on my car. Is this what others who have done this swap have run into? 2) There is a cut ground wire on the top of the manual tranny thats going in. There was not one on the auto. Is this for my reverse lights and if so where should i run the new ground to? Just to the negative on the battery? 3) Is there an easier way of putting the new pedals in? I was just to damn tired after fighting with stuff today to go any farther and see if i could get them in. Thanks for all your help!

only problem with that is when you add the shipping and handling hes back up to 160. yeah 160 sounds about right to me.