CodemanLivs

Exactly And Good info Thanks Actually that does work really good from what I've heard, but it's not very incognito. I was just at the smog test shop last week and they went over and under every inch of the car with a mirror on a stick and a flashlight just before the failed me for insufficient data, system not ready.

Actually that does work really good from what I've heard, but it's not very incognito. I was just at the smog test shop last week and they went over and under every inch of the car with a mirror on a stick and a flashlight just before the failed me for insufficient data, system not ready.

As I type I am testing the wiring . Just had the CEL come on , this time is was p0136 *circuit malfunction" which completely makes since. Just need to pin point the malfunction now!

.Yes , thats exactly what I was after. Just trying to tame the signal from the downstream sensor. Because I can't pass smog here in California when my subi keeps spitting that dreaded P0420 code !! And a California Cat is around $600 installed. The resistor and the cap for the mod were like 3 bucks 🤣 So I had to try it !! .... But look were it got me.

I've driven about 40miles with multiple stops and no CEL , but it's just a matter of time. I'm certain what I did , could not have caused any wires to melt. The short circuit I made intentionally was done with a resistor and capacitor and done on the 1 volt signal wire. So yes I will start with chasing the codes and I will forget about the the possibility that I screwed up . Well....at least for now anyway.

Oh and yes the #1 sensor is operating as it should no problems at all. Guess I need to follow the loss of voltage and determine the cause and focus on the fault code instead of what I'm guessing I did to hurt it.

Okay so absolutely no change to anything after the swap. Ever since the failed mod the voltage from the downstream O2 sensor has been between .32v and .33v . I'm fairly certain it should be between .01 and 1.0v. hence the DTC and the 0037. It hasn't actually thrown a code yet but scoping the sensor while running is showing me the same results as the stock ECU was. Is there a fuse or relay on the O2 sensor circuit ?? I believe both O2 sensors are powered together from the same circuit, so I should have lost power to both. Which would lead me to believe either the sensor is a brand new defect or I have a wiring issue. As mentioned before I fixed all the wires I had cut or spliced. I'm fairly certain I didn't smoke any wires anywhere in the process and I never even saw a spark or anything arching or smelled any thing burning. Any input as to what else I could look for or test to help find the source of my problem?

I'm going to do the swap and I'll report my findings here. Ever since my failed mod it's throwing code 0037 (bank 1 sensor 2 heater circut low voltage or something to that effect). Which was not present until I shorted that exact heater circuit trying to mod it.

That's what I was hoping to hear. Thank you And indeed I have removed and un did all modifications and everything is back to factory specs. Also have a new O2 sensor (downstream} going in as well in case I fried that too.

I have read online recently that and I quote "The ECU between Automatics and Manuals are exactly the same. Subaru has a different computer to manage their automatic transmissions." I have a 2002 Impreza Outback Sport and while trying a mod to regulate the signal to the ECU from the bank 1 number 2 O2 sensor to trick the ECU into believing the Cat. is efficient, I may have burn up the ECU. So... Does the above statement have any merit?? I have found and obtained an ECU from an donor car that was spot in identical except that it was an automatic instead of a manual. I am reluctant to swap it and turn the key just to find out if it will work properly. I found out the hard way what can happen playing with the electronics already and don't need to cause any more problems than I already have.

I actually had the same thing and it failed pretty quick , maybe it lasted a year before leaking. I ended up cleaning the nipple well with some alcohol and then I found just the right size bolt to fit inside the nipple. Along with some JB weld it threaded itself nicely into the hole and is now a permanent part of the radiator !

I was new 40 k Miles ago and.was great. The vibration started a month before I did the head gaskets. And even though i don't think it's the problem... I guess I'm going to.have to agree with you that I should try it. After all it seems logical based on the type of chatter it has.

Here is a link to my other post Please take a look and chime in I'm desperately needing help https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/173462-feels-like-i-have-no-motor-mounts-at-all/

Ok , here is the latest. I went to pull your pick and got the drive shaft assembly off an 04 Impreza Outback . Like new condition 74 bucks fit perfectly. Made NO difference what so ever !!! This car is on the way to the crusher !!! I am not one to throw in the towel EVER!!! Failure is not in my vocabulary!! I Cannot figure this out !! List of items changed since this Shutter (vibration) started. Motor, transaxel, rear diff, drive shaft assembly, flywheel, clutch KIT, all new motor and trans mounts, wheel bearing hub assemblies , brake pads and shoes. Ive even looked for a crack in the cross member the motor mounts sit on .. cause that's what it feels like , like something is broken structurally . Please !! Anyone else have any suggestions, I'll try anything. And I'm very certain , VERY VERY CERTAIN,. that every single nut and bolt were torqued to spec and thread lock applied as specified. Also , my clutch kit and flywheel are new and true . This is not clutch chatter, i know exactly how that feels. I have some video footage but it just doesn't convey the message Even have footage from under the car.

This one was an Exedy. I know not the best , but I'm fed up with throwing money at this thing!