billrigsby

Some of you may remember I had a pulley sieze and crash a few valves on my 99 2.2 Impreza. I installed a new belt, all new pulleys/tensioner (from EBay) and had the heads done. All was good, until yesterday, When it got cold in the AM (38 deg). Now I have a thumping or loud ticking but only until things warm up. My first thought was the oil filled tensioner, any one had any problems with the E Bay kits? Won't have tim to tear into it until the weekend, meanwhile my wife has it up in Denver for the week. Any thoughts :-\ Bill

Definetly more thanI needed to know, but informative. But what weight (viscosity)?

Found one online only capacities not what kind of fluid, unlkess GL-5 means anytthing?

Going to be changing out all the fluids in a 99 Impreza 2.2l 5 speed. What are the recomended fluids for the..... Rear Diff and Trans?

I got my heads back from the shop and will be re-installing them, the drivers side was a real bear to get out compared to the left side. Any tips on getting it back in, would loosening the engine mount and raising the engine a bit help? Bill

Well, looks like I have 5 bent valves! Should have the heads back by friday. Getting the drivers side off was a real bear, had to pull the rocker assembly to get it to fit out. Bill

Do you mean for Heuberger the big Subie dealer, or for the smaller Subie shops? I was looking at the yellow pages tonight and going to make some calls tomorrow for pricing to some of the Subie specialty shops. Bill

Sorry, forgot this was a new thread... 1999 Impreza 2.2l Bill

So, after the siezed pulley/broke belt I have removed the head. I see no obvious damage to the valves, I expected bent and twisted metal The combustion chambers do not hold water, so I assume there is a valve problem. How much do these guys get damaged after impact with the piston? The pistons look good and the cylinders still have visible cross-hatch. Since the head is off and the other will be soon might as well do a valve job :-\ Any input appreciated, Bill

Thanks, I'll try that and I can re-check the valve timing before I remove the timing belt. With 194,600 miles, I am probably due for a vlave job any way? Bill

compression of 130 PSI is low if the measurement was made properly. As long as the procedure was correct (clean oil, engine warmed, plugs removed, throttle fully open, battery sufficiently charged so that cranking speed was adequate), closer to 175 PSI would be expected. All of the above was done except warm engine, did not want to run it too much having a problem. If the numbers are still low, do a ''wet'' test to see if they improve. What is the "wet" test you mention? It's also possible for a slight mistiming to cause lowered compression. Timing (acording to my scan tool) is at 10 deg. Bill

Seems after the siezed pulley/shreaded timing belt fiasco, I do have a bad cylinder. I started the vehicle for a few seconds prior to putting the radiator/belts in just to see if it would start OK. After completly putting it all together I have a cylinder with 0 psi compression and 63% leakage compared to 130 psi and 15-20% in the other 3. Seems I was not so lucky after all. Bill

Yep, Got lucky I guess. Seems I do have an issue with right side rear cylinder when I did the leak down test. It was in the high yellow end (40%) so I have to keep an eye on it. Thanks for everyone's input. Bill

Yes, fired on all 4 cylinders. Bill

Let me retract that last post. Have you ever done something so obvious, so stupid, and then had to fess-up? I used the arrow on the left cam pulley not the hash mark. :-\ Realized something was amiss when doing a leakdown test and all cylinders were at 25-30% except one which is at 40%. So in brief, she breathes again, no help to my stupid mistake, glad I did not pull those heads for no reason! Bill

Well... Everything felt good, but no fire. Checked compression got 80, 0, 0, 0. Guess I'll pull the heads and se what else is bunged up. Bill

Heres where we stand at this poibt, got the timing kit with all new idlers and tensioner today. Will get the water pump tomorrow. Should I just put it all together and test fire or do another form of diagnosis first? Bill

That is assuming the timing belt is intact. You did not see the tread about the siezed idler pulley. I guess the valve covers need to be off to determine valve location. Finding TDC will not be a problem with the plugs removed. Bill

When doing the leakdown test on a 2.2l, what position should the cam sprockets be in. All valves need to be closed, is that the position you use when installing a new timing belt (ie. both marks at 12 o'clock? What position should the crank be in, also 12 o'clock? Bill

How do you get codes from a 92 SVX, don't see a connector for an OBDII scan tool, not sure when OBDII started? Bill

THATS THE ONE! Any thoughts on the cam spinning question? Bill

OOPS, missed one the lower idler below the tensioner is siezed!! Now we have a cause:banana: Bill

All the idlers, water pump spin freely, both cams turn over with some resistance (valve springs) and "pop" over once the cam hits the apex of the lobe (did that make sense)? I am hoping this is a good sign, maybe no valve damage. I would think if a valve was bent, the cams would not "feel" normal. But they may if a valve is plain old broken? Is it a fair assumption that with a shot belt, the ignition would not even try to fire, even out of sync from the rest of the system? I'll get a belt tomorrrow and find out wahts really messed up. Bill

I only see 1 cam sensor. But, upon further inspection seems the teeth on the belt are shredded. Is this the same, worse, or better than a break? Bill

Wiring and connector looks good, It's only $80.00, I'll probably just get one and give er a try. :-\ Bill