When I stomp it through the mountains, I get blow-by... Even then, I lose MAYBE .75Qt per 5k miles. This is on an engine with 112,000 miles. I wouldn't take this from the dealer. You paid quite a bit for your ride. In NO uncertain terms; if I were in your position the dealer would be taking the vehicle back. Don't let them try to intimidate you with ridiculous claims and jargon. As you can see from those above... This ain't right. If you need to contact a consumer advocasy group, do so. But don't keep this vehicle. Show up with ALL your paperwork and a ride home. Tell them that you are leaving in a DIFFERENT vehicle than you came in. Now if they want to do the right thing, you can leave in another one of theirs. OR, you can catch a ride home with your wife and you will be expecting to let out of the vehicle, as you intend on picking up a MECHANICALLY PERFECT NEW Subaru from a competing dealer.

 

I'm sorry, hearing these stories blow my mind. Stealerships truly believe their own sh it sometimes and it's quite concerning. I got quoted $650 to install STRUTS. But wait... Then we're going to need to do a 4-wheel alignment. (Kind of a neccessity after installing Struts) So now about $800 out the door, and that doesn't include the cost of the struts... I'm getting it done $200 out the door and oddly enough... That includes alignment.

 

But I digress,

Don't take any crap. They WILL take the vehicle back. But you may have to leave them with no other options in order for that to happen. Good Luck.

96-99 2.5 are Phase I DOHC motors. but then my frather in laws 02 blew at 35k.

 

So, it seems as though the HG issues re-occurred in the 02 models???

 

See where I'm going with this. Thanks for helping me to illustrate my point Rich.

 

While YES there are going to be some poor gaskets in circulation, there are, IMHO, more HG blown to pure stupidity or lack of sense. You can't walk out to your car (ANY VEHICLE) while it's cold, turn it over, then gun it. We had this moron at work for a couple months (had to fire him, no common sense or aptitude) who would get in his BRAND NEW jetta, turn it, gun it to about 5k a couple times, then peel out. This idiot would do this in 20 degree weather and would even chirp his tires into 2nd. It took all of two weeks for him to blow his Water Pump and HG. Luckily for him, he did that damage so quick that the dealer fixed for free.

 

IMO, provided you truely did NOT get a bad HG, all you need to do is adhere to the simple laws of thermal dynamics, more specifically expansion and contraction in conjunction with the materials used in the components, and exercise good judgement, and you will be fine.

 

I drive fairly dukes of hazzardish. AFTER I have reached operating temp. No probs. A good rule of thumb is to shift below 3500rpm until warmed up. That is what the vehicle wants if left in D. I manually shift during warm up for particular reasons, but am VERY certain NOT to pin it above 3500. Hope this helps, and I hope you enjoy your new ride.

 

Lastly, timing belt aside, the little things that add up and need to be taken into account when purchasing a used vehicle of 80K+ miles are the following:

 

o2 sensors (Pre-Cat, Post-Cat)

Alternator

Battery

Fuel Filter

Diff and tranny service

Struts

Thermostat

HVAC System

Tires

Brakes

and the BIG ONE which we have seen alot of (myself in particular) CRANK PULLEY.

 

For one reason or another, the Woodruff key tends to be torn off the crankshaft making the pulley impossible to stabilize, and the car un-drivable. NO power steering, alternator... This is about a $450 fix. You can get an idea about the pulley by watching it turn. If it seems out of balance, you need to get it looked at.

OK. It seems as though my rpm's rise in the middle of shifting. This is 4EAT. It also seems as though it either, doesn't happen after being completely warmed up, or is far less apparent when warmed up.

 

In my ongoing hunt for a cheap SVX with good tranny, I recall seeing something on an SVX Board about it possibly a result of the bands being too tight or too loose.

 

Although I view this as more of an annoyance than hinderance, I would still like to know what may be causing this so I can fix at my discretion. TIA.

These struts are for a normal legacy and are a bit shorter than the outback models. The can be made to work but you will loose some ground clearance. Great price tho... Check out tirerack.com for the best price on the proper replacements for your SUS.

 

Anybody know how much clearance I will lose? What are the advantages of going to a shorter strut? Less Lean when cornering? Are there any disadvantages other than less clearance? Will these bolt right on without having to fab. a workable solution? TIA.

Wondering if these will work.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-GR-2-GR2-STRUTS-SHOCKS-SUBARU-LEGACY-4WD-95-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33590QQitemZ8026654173

One word. Three Syllables.

 

Hydrogen.

Been looking at replacing my struts. Been planning on getting the KYB GR2's but am wondering what #'s for my Legacy SUS. I think it's the Legacy Outback, but am not sure. If so, do I just use the SM5361's all around? Here's a link to the info I'm going by. Please let me know. TIA.

i never implicated you or your dealer, i'm glad you're comfortable there. i'm just a hobbiest, but no need to tear me down. i'm an aerospace engineer at NASA, i've had plenty of classes relating to stress, fatigue, failure, materials, engineering, casting, foundry, isotopes, alloys, etc. and i've happened to pull apart lots of motors that have overheated and not overheated.

 

Gary's smart.

So is Subie Gal.

I don't think either of you are wrong. Both have different experiences.

 

Gary, do you know Sam Satterthwaite?

Lets just say i got some major curb rash to where my left rear wheel is now bent vertically and about 1/4 of the tire is sticking out through the wheel well.

 

I can't even picture what you're talking about. Well... I guess sort of. It sounds bad if your tire has wrapped around your wheel. Did you mean horizontally? Cause vertical kinda makes sense. But if it's horizontal, I can't figure how the car drives. Post pics, cause my imagination says it's cartoonish when you drive.

 

the car drives without any alignment issues but my question is how much is this gonna cost?

 

My cartoony idea says this is impossible. Please post pics. If you slid into a curb sideways. You need an alignment. If you went over a curb hard enough to cause tire bubbling, or burst the tire, you probably need an alignment, and depending on treadwear, 4 new tires. Anyway, please post pics so I know what you're talkin' about.

I can't tell you for certain that there are still places that do it, but it might be worth making a few more calls. I'd expect race shops to still be doing this kind of work, since reducing tread to make "semi-slicks" is (was?) popular. If you do find one, you should probably ask them if they see any risk in shaving a street tire for size-matching purposes.

 

EDIT: I looked on Google, and found the place listed below. I know NOTHING about them. Perhaps they can help, perhaps not. Might be worth a call.

 

------------------------------

Speed Shop

 

9491 W 44TH Ave Ste 102

Wheat Rdg, CO 80033-2900

(303) 232-3774

-------------------------------

 

Best of luck.

 

 

Thanks man. I think I am going to try to get Big O to replace the other 3 under warranty since I have only had them 7 months, 18K miles, and they show 1/8" of tread on the edges. This is ridiculous. I checked the warranty on the BFG website, and the warranty is for 70,000 miles, or SIX YEARS!!! This is mind-numbing, I'm going to go to the store I got them at and see if they'll replace the 3 and I'll buy the one.

I'd click on this link http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18 , read the page (especially the section headed "Matching Tires By Shaving Them to Maintain Equivalent Tire Tread Depths"), and make up my own mind. BTW, I'm not avoiding the issue; the "safe" approach is to closely match the sizes. Obviously, you can gamble on not doing that, and maybe win. Sorry, but I am not going to take sides beyond what I've already said on this one!

 

Just talked to Big O. They, nor do they know of anyone, who still shaves tires. Liability issue.

I wasn't "inferring" anything. I was providing a bit more data so that you might be better able to draw your own conclusions.

 

If you are concerned about the size difference, have you considered having the replacement tire shaved? You could have it reduced to the same size as or as much as 1/4" larger than the tire you intend to use as it's axle-mate. Obviously, you'd throw away some of the shaved tire's tread life, but you wouldn't have to buy 3 other tires right now or be concerned about the possible damage to the drive train.

 

So, if you were in my position, you would...

I like the Yokohama Avid Touring on my 96 OBW, fairly quiet, good handling and tread life. Only average in snow though. Much more affordable than the Michelin's. Have you visited Tirerack.com for reseach?

 

Yoko's are good... If you don't encounter weather, or off-road conditions. Other than that...

UPDATE:

 

Talked to "Shawn" this morning. These $40 tires will wind up costing me $62 installed/ordered through Big O (via TireRack.com). However, I would NOT be getting $40/tire credit (apparently that was only for the Big O Aspen Tire), and if I purchased the Kumho's through Big O (Not directly from TR.Com) I would NOT be able to get the road hazard on them.

 

As you can see, this has quickly gone from bad to worse.

 

Bottom line... Judging by the pics, would I be putting my transfer case in jeopardy by simply purchasing a new matching replacement???

 

I already had the one kid say I "ought to be fine". However....

 

Please help guide me in the right direction. Personal experiences are greatly appreciated.

I have no personal experience with Kumho tires. Did you read all the reviews? Some reviewers apparently aren't happy with wet/snow performance, while others complained about poor tread life. Those complaints did seem to be in the minority, but obviously "YMMV" is literally the case. BTW, Kumho apparently also sells under the "Marshal" brand name, and the company used to be known as Samyang; perhaps knowing that can help in making a decision.

 

Sorry my good man, I don't know what you are inferring. Have these been traditionally "crap" tires?

in response to your pictures: can't quite tell but is there less tread depth in the middle compared to the edges of your tires?????

 

the first picture is not a good tread depth measuring spot the grooves there will be shallower regardless, it also looks like you might have more wear on the outside edge but there again can't quite tell, which could be a toe wear issue.

 

i would think that those tires should have lasted longer then 18k miles, but that also depends on how they are wearing, all 4.

 

if you have alignment wear issues then they are going to wear much faster then they should but it won't be even tire wear either.

 

That's just it, I've had the tires rotated twice since I bought them, and you're right, the inner has more depth than the outer. I don't know that they have been getting rotated properly. It seems like it takes them very little time before it's finished. (10-15 mins each time.) What is the proper rotation of the tires? I should start marking them before I go in for rotations so I know whether or not these guys have a clue.

 

I guess you are agreeing with me that the treadwear is quite worn for 18K miles of driving? I'm glad I'll get something for the remaining 3. May need to consider lifetime alignments if I get off the hook for $40 on the tire + road hazard - $8. Like to get out with alignments for <$200.

My A's:

1) Put the FWD fuse in place, if you haven't already.

2) Drive carefully, and as little as possible, until you get a relatively matched set of rubber and can remove the fuse.

 

[/left]

 

Put the fuse in prior to driving this morning. Babying it as much as possible.

 

Am going to get the Kumho A/S 795.

 

Reviews at Tire Rack said that they had good treadwear and are worth triple what they cost. Any Thoughts?

yes, i know new tires can be off too but mixing one new tire to 3 used tires would put you off in size much more then 4 new would. but, most and do believe all tire stores/companies won't just put one new tire on an all wheel drive vehicle because then they will be reponsible for your drivetrain if something goes out in it. then for them it won't be worth the cost of selling you that tire verses selling you 4 tires.

 

but then do you want to risk a bigger bill down the road your self if you do find someone willing to put one tire on.

 

Right about now I'm kicking myself in the A S S for not ponying up the extra dough for the Road Hazard!!!

 

I just got back from a different Big O and the guy, Shawn (a bit older and demonstrated knowledge of AWD) confirmed the area I THOUGHT was the wear-bar, actually was despite what the kid at the first Big O told me. After looking at the tires he said that it looked like I'm down to about 6/32" on the tires, and that he wouldn't recommend risking putting only one tire on. He said he would give me $40/tire for the remaining 3.

 

So, hooray for me, I get to buy myself a new set of tires the first few days after Christmas. .

 

Considering it IS the day after Christmas, and my bank account is not the happiest, I'm leaning towards going with the same tire again, although I'm NOT happy with the treadwear. BF Goodrich Traction T/A T. Claimed 60,000 Miles, Look about half worn after 18,000 Miles; However, they are only $57. "Shawn" recommended the Big O aspen tires, which would cost $367 AFTER pro-rating the old 3, but I just have to imagine that he wants to sell those NOT for their outstanding tread life, traction, and low road noise, but because he gets a MUCH better commission on them.

 

Please feel free to interject your opinions on a good all-season tire in a 205-70-15.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

EDIT: PICS BELOW

 

Does this seem right for 18K Miles???

 

 

 

 

 

 

ok, i read a bullitin on the all wheel tire drive issue and it stated that there can't be anymore then a 0.05 % difference in diameter all the way around your vehicle otherwise you will put a strain on your drivetrain in all wheel drive mode and risk damage.

 

 

this bullitin was explaining the differences of selective 4wd, full time 4wd and all wheel drive.

 

************!!! That's a low tolerance. Thanks for the speedy reply.

Well, I was coming home from my girlfriends' Family's house last night and got a puncture on the INSIDE sidewall. What's strange is that it was midway up the sidewall???

 

It was the rear driver side and after getting the spare on, I could immediately feel the difference in the tranny. Luckily I was only about 5 Miles from home and babied it home.

 

My ?'s:

 

Is it necessary to put in the FWD OD fuse in?

If so, should I even CONSIDER driving it 350 miles over the next couple days up and back to the mountains?

 

Already went to Big O. The kid said that I ought to be able to get away with only getting one more tire. However, it seems as though the BFG Traction TA's are wearing much quicker than the 60K mile rating. (Only 15K miles Driven)

How much of a difference in tread-wear is acceptable without risking damaging the tranny?

When I start the car it idles high as it is supposed to while warming up. Then after it gets warmed up it drops to anywhere around 3-500 after a few seconds at a stop as you have said. When it gots really below the normal I put the code reader on and it said 250 rpms which means my tach is fairly accurate. I am running out of ideas. Please continue to update here. I will keep my results posted. Any help would be great. Thanks

 

Sounds like it's not the IACV then. If you have a new one, and are having the exact same prob...

 

I have a new thermostat on the recommendation of SubieGal. ($12.95) If that's a no go, I will probably go to the coolant temp sensor. ($30 something)

Glad I haven't dropped $300 on a new IACV. I'll do the thermostat and flush (withOUT) the subaru conditioner and see if that fixes it. If you get tempted to do the coolant temp sensor, it is located under the back of the intake manifold.

 

I'll keep you posted.

 

 

PS

 

How's your mileage???

Just under 70k on the car. I havnt updated in a while - problem is still there. It seems the low idle comes after the coolant is up to temp. Still getting the IACV CEL p1507. Need help!!

 

How low is your idle? Mine sticks around 400 Rpm. It does run shi tty before it is warmed up (Runs rich, hard shifting, high idle. Idle only resets after it has reached operating temp. AND I have come to a complete stop for 4-5 seconds.). A While ago I did a coolant flush and put in the Subaru Conditioner. Seemed like my mileage dropped after that. Since it has gotten cold (-14 - 20) the mileage has just crapped out. I need to check my tires, but I just filled up yesterday, have driven 130 miles, and have a little better than half a tank. I am carefull to let it warm up and make the idle drop before I really get moving, so I figured that would at least help until I buy a new IACV. At any rate, let me know if this sounds familiar.

As some of you may or may not know, I rebuilt and swapped an ej22t engine from a turbo legacy into my legacy. The motor's broken in, and I took it to the dyno.

 

I got 153 HP at the wheels, and around 156 ft-lbs of torque.

 

Not too bad for a pretty much stock ej22t with bolt ons. The dyno I was on doesn't use any correction factors, so it's pretty accurate, and is probably lower then most.

 

Other interesting note is the tuner guy mentioned I'm running a little lean until about 4500 rpm, most likely due to the fact the small turbo builds boost so fast, but then I'm running a little rich afterwards. So a little tuning will probably smooth out the AFR. Boost level stayed pretty consistent across the entire rpm range.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tlegdyno1.jpg

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tlegdyno2.jpg

 

Pics of the engine rebuild & swap if you haven't seen them.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t

 

 

Nice Work Man!!! That engine compartment is as clean as they come. VERY NICE job. I Especially like the addition of the Optima Yellow Top.

thats what im looking for Usually in winter if there is snow im out playing in it and the car gets no rest (and i am sure the car just hates that).

Nothing worse then a subaru in a driveway on a snowy day ... i can hear it whimpering " i wanna go play ................ somone drive me"

 

 

nipper

 

 

Oh good. I'm glad I read the thread before I lost it on the sally-boy who bought a Subie and would store it for winter. Glad to hear that you have an excuse. And a good one at that. Sorry to hear about your back... I hope everything turns out alright.

 

On the subject of storage... I have no clue other than a gas "antifreeze" (believe it or not, this what my manual refers to it as), and as dickensheets suggested, pull the battery and let it sit in the house.

 

Is it just me, or does anyone else find it ironic that a Texan would have a good idea of what to do during winter storage? Well, aptitude knows no cultural boundaries. No, I'm not talking Sh i t. Oddly enough, I now feel somewhat bad for giving them $hit in the first place.

 

At any rate.

 

Get well soon nips.

Do I need to "burp" if I catch and re-use? If so, How do I do that?