Xithael

Thank you so much, I found some engine codes elsewhere but this list is much better, especially due to me having the SPFI as opposed to the MPFI 🙏🙏

Is it a light green? Or sort of darker green? The only one I have is very bright green.

So there may be a small problem in that I only see one green plug and it’s already plugged in, way in the back corner of the cubby below the steering rack. The only outwardly accessible plug is a brown male and female plug with a blue and a black wire, and a brown male plug with a yellow wire and black wire. Should I try messing with them while the ignition is at “on” or will that break things? Thanks in advance

Hello everyone, I have a check engine light post-complete rebuild of my EA82, and this means I can’t get it smogged, ergo I can’t get it registered, either. Does anyone have either the method or the decoder sheet for the EA82 Brats, Justys, etc? I looked some stuff up on google; from what my grandpa says, my car (1992 Loyale) doesn’t have OBD, and google outlined some tips, but you still need a decoder, right? I’m not very experienced. On a previous post I made, another forum user posted what I can only assume is the digital version of the holy grail for Leone/Loyale/Justy/Brat owners (several manufacturers’ guidelines, manuals, guides on engine and brake swaps, etc), but after flipping through it, I couldn’t find a single decoder sheet. Does anyone have anything of the sort? Thanks in advance, y’all

Hey all, since setting the distributor to somewhat proper idle, the check engine light has started flashing. What do I do about this? I assume this is somewhat normal, as moosens alluded to. Normally I would associate this with complete engine death, but it seems to run fine. The green test plug that is mentioned in either the “how to keep your Subaru alive” book or the engine manufacturers guidelines seemed to make it go away, but I think it was a fluke the time I did it. I’m genuinely afraid to take it up the road and back, but when I did it seemed to handle it just fine and went into 4WD too. Thanks, -Xithael

Unrelated to the replies, but since it was idling normally for a bit, me and my grandpa took it out on the road for a test drive, and when we got back, the crank pulley bolt was so loose that it almost caused the belts to completely fall off, which I can only assume means that we did not torque the bolt. Does this mean we have to re-tension the belts? Thanks -Xithael

CEL is not on. I have a timing light, but it seems that the flywheel should be at 20 degrees towards the passenger side when it’s completely on the other side. I believe the timing light had to be cranked all the way clockwise to get the mark to show up. The distributor is loose right now so as to get it in a position that could be correct, but it may be worthwhile to just buckle it down for now to get some kind of consistency? We have new belts, fortunately my grandpa bought some back in the day. As far as I know, we have all the parts, we just need to put it back together, which we’re not far off from.

Yes, this engine has been some time in the works now. It’s been rebuilt from the block, and hasn’t run in 3 years or so. The cams have been timed, I believe? That’s when you set it to TDC and put the belts on? I believe that it’s been done. I have the manufacturer’s manuals, and I’ve checked about timing it, but since me and my grandpa started from scratch, we also had to put new fluids in, coolant, oil, etc. That ended up meaning that we also had to follow the procedures for warming up the coolant to temp, which is in right about the same area as the timing section, but since it has this issue I’ve been wondering: if it has an exhaust leak, is it worth trying to time right now? Like, if we fix the exhaust leak AFTER timing the engine, do we have to time it again? Thanks for the feedback, -Xithael

Hey all, I’m having a strange problem with a fluctuating idle speed in my 1992 Subaru Loyale. When I turn it over, it runs and idles at 1900 RPM, then when it’s been running for a while, it starts to go down then kinda sputters out. I looked this up on google, but mostly what I got from it was “vacuum leak.” I also have to adjust the timing, so I was wondering if maybe that fixes it? I’m a very inexperienced mechanic, at least when it comes to real life. The engine is an EA82, and it’s a bit of a mix and match of two different engines. It’s single point fuel injection. If anyone has any ideas, please feel free to type away down in the replies.