cherrythesubaru
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Everything posted by cherrythesubaru
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Really appreciate the recommendations here! I did a parooze through ebay and FB marketplace the other day and it's quite slim on OEM axles. I'm on the west coast of Canada on Vancouver Island so the junk yard and general parts availability is pretty minimal. I have seen a few stock Loyales around town though so I might try to approach an owner and see if they have any spare parts around or can help on the local scene. I think I'll start with the RockAuto axles just to get her rolling again and keep on the hunt for OEM as I go. Thanks again!
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No clue what the lift combination is to be honest. It looks like whoever did the lift just put bigger struts in... that was one of the first things I looked for and I still haven't found blocks anywhere. The history of the vehicle is a bit of a mystery... the previous owner said they found it abandoned in a parkade. There was apparently already a lift on it at that point. I'll see if I can get you some measurements when I go to work on it next.
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I thought about dropping things back to stock but I'd love to leave the lift as is for now if I can. Can't seem to find the OEM parts anywhere since they've all been discontinued... might have to go with the RockAuto extreme articulation axles unless you might be able to share some sources for axles or good alternatives?
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Ok, my Subaru buddy came over today and immediately confirmed the most likely candidate is the CV's being maxed out with the lift. Not sure how the old ones survived but perhaps they were meant for a lift. Anyone know a good option for extreme articulation CV's? Looking at these off RockAuto but any other suggestions would be awesome! https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13224045&cc=1270134&pt=2288&jsn=591 Cheers!
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Thanks yall. I jacked it up again today and made sure the axle nut was tight as well as the lug nuts. There is a little vertical play in the passenger side wheel but that was there before when there was no clicking noise prior to replacing the cv's (I have to replace the wheel bearings but didn't have time while doing the axles). I could replace the bearings and see if that fixes it Noise is the same while turning and I haven't been able to test with another passenger yet but will try to do that today. The inner cups seem to have a lil bit of play - don't think they are jammed downwards by the shafts. Cone washers are installed. This noise only started after replacing the cv axles so I don't think there are any issues that suddenly arose with the transmission, driveshaft, or engine mounts. I've uploaded a video of me driving here: https://youtube.com/shorts/xNpCdfp6KzQ?feature=share Hope this is helpful!
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Just replaced both front cv axles on my lifted 92 Loyale (5spd manual 4wd) and I'm getting some nasty clicking/clunking noise multiple times per rotation during acceleration straight or on turns. There is no noise while coasting in neutral. I used aftermarket axles as the originals had already been replaced and the axle lengths seemed to match what was already on the vehicle when I bought it. Could this just be a result of using shitty aftermarket axles that can't handle the angles of the lift? What should I check for potential issues caused by errors during install?
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Cheers! With the lift on this thing, I'll probably have to do some more searching for parts that will fit. I'm thinking I'll do a full overhaul of everything to do with suspension, wheels, brakes, potentially steering. We'll see how the part search goes! Appreciate the offer to help find parts from your local guy. Will PM you when I'm in search mode!
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FOLKS! We have liftoff!!! Cleaned the injector with some carb cleaner and reinstalled. Still had some intermittent issues with misfires but I was able to play around with the distributor timing and took the beast for a rip around town last night. Engine is running great! Next up, suspension and brakes.
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I believe my model only has one fuel filter in the engine bay which I swapped out. I blew out the hoses with compressed air and reconnected. Didn't seem to make any difference. Out of curiosity, I pinched the outlet hose on the pressure regulator with my pressure gauge still attached (in line after the filter but before the regulator) and was able to get a reading of 40psi. With this in mind, could there be an issue with the fuel injector being stuck partially open and not allowing enough pressure to build for a correct psi reading in front of the regulator?
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Alright folks, installed the new solenoid and still having the same issues. The CEL is now off and I'm not getting any codes from the ECU. Just checked for vacuum leaks again and it doesn't seem like there are any. Out of curiosity, I double checked my fuel pressure and am getting 19/20 psi. Is this close enough to the spec of 21 psi? And if so, would a good next step be to check the fuel injector to see if there are any issues going on there?
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Ok, I was finally able to figure out which connections would allow me to pull codes. The last owners seem to have done some interesting wiring changes so the typical connections were not available. I'm getting code 34 and 21 (I wish I had figured out the wiring sooner). These codes would confirm the EGR solenoid and coolant temp sensor are having issues. Just checked and both are getting power but the components have failed. RockAuto has the coolant sensors in stock for a reasonable price. The EGR solenoids seem to be elusive at best but I've heard it's possible to simply bypass with a direct line and some resistors. I've also read you can use old Toyota solenoids but it looks like the threads referencing this have a link to a website that no longer exists. Does anyone have a walkthrough on either the bypass or Toyota solenoid solutions? Cheers!
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@scoobydube Had some time to check the engine for an EGT sensor issue and looks like my model does not have one. Went ahead and checked the coolant temp sensor and it did have some white crud on it. After cleaning the sensor, the engine started up right away and then idled at 2000rpm before starting to climb without touching the throttle. I gave it some gas to see if it would come down to normal idle levels but the engine puttered out. Now I'm back to no start. Might try swapping the coolant temp sensor first to see if that's been the issue all along.
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Update: Found a regulator that fit but the symptoms persist. Thanks for the insight here, Scooby! The owners before me seem to have made a lot of changes to the electrical so I'm not certain I'd be able to pull reliable codes. That being said, I'll see if anything you mentioned above RE: EG temp sensors, breather hoses, EGR valve etc. are causing the issues. More diagnostics to come!
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Thanks Scooby! I'll give those a try if the fuel issue diagnosis doesn't solve it. Update: I tested the pump and it seems to have good flow. After a bit more diagnosis, I noticed that when starting cold giving it some gas almost instantly kills the engine. To me that seems like it's running rich and would point to a fuel pressure regulator. I bought a new regulator off Rockauto but it didn't fit despite their website saying it was compatible. Got the Delphi part #FP10485: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10910396&cc=1270134&pt=6124&jsn=1162 The only other option on Rockauto is Intermotor part #PR263: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=817733&cc=1270134&pt=6124&jsn=1161 Has anyone else had issues finding a regulator and, if so, where did you find a viable replacement? Cheers!
