ShockingChicken

Bump; other notes... Piston 3 doesn't fire when under a certain temp (what the!?). It's getting electricity, plug coloring looks normal, and runs fine when warm/hot. But just not when cold!? TPS isn't exact...old and inaccurate. Could this be running the thing rich? Car runs smoother, in general. 400 miles into the initial 500 break-in. Wee! Still that richness seems to be only problem. (and it was a problem before, actually).

Okay...more on my ChalkAttack rebuilt EA82, SPFI (or TBI, however you want to call it). 88 Wagon GL, 4wd, manual, etc. It's still running rich, it seems... New O2 sensor, etc. The TCS needs to be replaced...only cools off to 1400 ohms. But warms up okay (all way to 300 ohms). I don't think this would affect much except my cold start/fast idle. NorthWet, you had mentioned looking at that sensor...would you happen to know where I can find new ones? Anyway, I tested the fuel pressure going IN to the throttle body (after the dampers and filter). It runs at 25 psi and holds at 20psi when shut off. Haynes claims the spec to be between 17.5 and 24 psi. Could this higher pressure be causing the rich running? What would be considered good pressure specs? Should I shoot for a new pressure regulator (old one has 240k on it)? Could this rich running contribure to my misfire when cold (at dile and even while revving)? I tried searching the forums for this but it's really difficult to tell what some of these threads are talking about just by their title!

WOBBLE: Well, I'm pretty sure the sound is possibly a blown bearing in the RR tire (already replaced the LR...). unfortunately, though, I have to replace the whole RR knuckle because I can't unscrew that damn nut that holds the bearings in place in the rear! grrrr... The wobble itself? Maybe the driveshaft is off balance? ROUGH RUNNING: CTS might be slighty off, but it still works for the most part. Will probably still replace it. However, my fuel pressure going into the throttle body was at 25, and the specs say 17.5-24. Could this be pushing too much through the injector? Lord knows how old that pressure regulator is... NorthWet, yup, I plugged/unplugged the test connectors. They didn't really have much of an effect, though. *shrugs* I timed it both plugged & unplugged.

Well, the guage hovers a hair before 1/2 to a hair after 1/2. But the difference in performance and oil pressure, etc, seem pretty significant between those two...? But it never gets higher than that. New HEater core, new radiator, block is cleaned, heads are new, cooling system was flushed with cleaner during first run. Regular 50/50 in it, now. Maybe I'm just being silly and or anal/paranoid. Welp, timing is 20deg BTDC. The Haynes said to rotate the camshaft counterclockwise (with new T-belt on) to tense tensioner before tightening it. This was too much and put the cam's alignment slightly off. LEtting the tensioner's spring do the tensing was enough. When cold the engine acts like it's missing... and if I open full throttle while at idle it backfires and nearly dies. Curious! Clears up when warm, though. Plugs are new, cables are new, rotor and disty have 20k on them, at the most. Injector (TBFI) is original (240k miles). O2 sensor is new. I cleaned all of the sensors on the intake manifold (two on coolant channel, one on intake channel). But perhaps they could still be bad? Is one of these the CTS? Haven't checked fuel pressure yet since the rebuild, but it was fine before the rebuild. Is there a way to test the injector? The ticks seems regular... Thanks for all of your input, NorthWet, it's been really helpful! On another note: any ideas on why the rear end would wobble when it gets hot (accompanied by a winding sound coming from the right rear tire that sounds a bit like a metal baseball card flapping on bicycle spokes...in a pattern that suggests it's only happened during half of the revolution of the tire...)? Oh, and it goes away when I turn...

80 miles out of 500 Well, the timing belt was half of a tooth off: driver's side tensioner was too tight. Running much smoother now! Engine is running a little hot: is 192 deg a good temp for the thermostat? I think this is also why the oil pressure is slightly lower than normal. Engine also still seems to run a little rich...or perhaps there is another reason for the slight performance hit. Symptom: the wider the throttle the more the engine feels like it's slightly bogging. Any ideas? Next up: Why my rear end wobbles!?

RINGS: Again, I'm not sure. The guy that did the honing and the rings does good work and knows his stuff, so I'm sure they're okay. What's the visual difference? I looked at the rings when I alligned them before inserting the pistons... OIL PRESSURE: yup, installed OEM o-rings around oil hole thingy on cam. Maybe it's the oil I'm using? The pressure is high when cold but gets pretty low as the engine heats up... from 6 - 50 range at 500-3000 rpms. Perhaps this typical for 10w-30 non-synthetic? SURGE: This is still a mystery. I fixed a leaking PCV hose... things run a little better now. Still need some more driving to tell for sure. When engine was luke warm (not norm. temp, not cold) I opened full throttle while at idle and got a backfire! Hasn't happened since the engine warmed up. Now it just bellows slightly before catching up. Timing is still fine. Again, could this be a possible symptom of a timing belt being a tooth off? Under medium load I get the wet explosion-type sound that you sometimes hear under heavy load. The exhaust smell and that full throttle thing both seem like rich mixture symptoms? New O2 sensor, though... Poderous, really ponderous... Thanks, again, for all the help! At least the tape deck I got from the junkyard works!!! Yessssss. Gotta dig my Talking Heads tape!

Yay for Austin Soobs! I just rebuild my engine, new heads, etc: Here's my thread on it. No pics posted yet (plenty taken: used them to put everything back on like it was!); I like your photomentary website of the whole thing! How's it running?

Not sure the specific type of rings... I had the guy at the machine shop buy them and install them for me since he had a ring opener-thingy and a good price. Yeah, I did the tear-down and rebuild myself--quite a feat! Took my time and made sure to do everything right: no shortcuts! Other things to note: OIL PRESSURE! Holy cow I've never seen it this low! near 0 @ idle, not above 45 @ 3k... Is this normal!? It's a brand new oil pump and I haven't found any leaks yet! Is it going to be like this until I change the oil? Or is it something else that needs to be tended to ASAP? ROUGH RUNNING: surging while driving. Idles okay, though. Worse when cold (misfire?). Is this a possible t-belt tooth off like suggested earlier? Or something else? Any and all help is super nifty; want to make sure I do everything right and help this car make it another 250k...

Timing is right at 20deg BTDC per the sticker under the hood. Timing belts could be off a tooth, but I was pretty thorough on checking all that (I took two full days to put all the "accessories" on the engine). What would be the symptoms? Yes, I did the rebuild myself: new heads, cams from a junkyard and original block (the machine shop who cleaned and honed my block/cams said the block and pistons were in AMAZING condition, especially for having 240k on them! I did the rebuild initially because of needing new heads (coolant in exhaust) not because of engine troubles. More specific on the roughness: cold starts it sounds like it's misfiring/not firing on a piston (or two?) with a LOT of vibration... smoothes out when up to temp. Any new ideas?

She's back together in one piece! Woohoo!! A month after ChalkAttack went down for a engine rebuild she's back together and back on the road: 10 miles into the initial 500 mile break in. Just a few questions: * Cam noise typical during first 10 minutes of initial start-up (first start after rebuild....gone and purrs, now) * Haynes said to "accelerate sharply" from 30 to 50 and coast back to 30 about 10 to 12 times to load the rings. Any other tips I should do? * Fast idle (cold start) not engaging... what controls this? My main question: * Runs kinda' rough...is this typical for the initial break-in? Or should it run smooth? I'm considering running B-12 through the gas (month-old gas) and doubly-checking vacuum hoses. Any other ideas? Thank y'all so much! More pictures will be posted on my website soon!

Rust-inhibitive primer, latex primer, latex chalkboard paint. Has held up Great, so far! No fading, but the spots where I didn't sand enough to remove all of the previous clearcoat are starting to show as the chalkboard paint has started to come off there. As far as the rest of the car, the paint has held up great! I'm planning on adding chalk trays along the side where the old bumpguard was (to leave chalk when the car is parked) and herculiner the panels underneath the trays (there's just primer there, now).:cool: If I ever find myself in Utah I'll let you chalk on it! Or, better yet, you can make your own and spread the love of a transient art medium.

Yeah, I saw Mizpah's prices: totally awesome! ...if only they had $5 rocker arms! HAH! Those rockers are hard to find! And the only ones I've found, like I said, are like $55 from 1stsubaru. Any suggestions?

Yoyo everyone...haven't posted in a while. 1800 GL, 4WD, EA82, etc, etc:burnout: http://myspace.com/chalkattack ANYWAY! Couple questions: --Where can I find new rocker arms? (1stsubaruparts.com is only place I've found, so far, and they're $55 EACH!) --If using Old rockers: MUST be in order! New rockers: okay on old cam? --Old rockers okay on old (out of order) lifters? Or should I just get new lifters? --Why would someone ditch an excellent condition, <100k Loyale in a Junk yard just because it was "smoking too much!?" (and all they needed to do was remove the valve cover to see that shattered rocker!?) PEOPLE THESE DAYS!---the era of disposable vehicles mentality, I tell ya. --Recommended maintenance to 4wd tranny with poor synchros (oh like that's a surprise! )? --R12 to 134a switch safe? (compressor and other components can handle it okay?) 240k on the trusty Chalk Attack:banana:...didn't really need a rebuild (NO OIL LEAKS, even!) but was replacing the heads (fracture leaking coolant into exhaust---eewww:-\) and figured what the heck? Also am replacing CV axle, heater core, vent foam, headlight, oil/water pumps, tbelts, hoses, clutch, windshield, stereo, clock, etc. YAY for fixing up stuff: happy subie!

Yeah, I just found your orignal post from last year about that. Found it interesting, and realized that a crack in the head right up there, like yours, is probably the problem. :-\ Money is tight atm, and everything else on the engine is great, so I think I'll try the JBWeld solution and see what happens. Thanks a ton, everyone, for the help!

Yeah, I had already cleaned and dried the whole area around it to see if it was coming from somewhere else: no dice. The only remotely-near leak is a slight oil seep from the HG. Back when I had the exhaust off (replcaing 02 sensor) I noticed the bolt cavity was wet. Both of those bolts have had problems with stripping so that's what my guess is, that they made a small crack between those cavities and the water jacket/passage. Running the engine with the pipe off is a test I haven't done, and prolly will do, although I'm pretty sure the result. Although, it will tell me if it's coming form the bolt itself, or the exhaust. *shrugs* Well, thanks for the help, guys! No $.50 yet, though.