tzrider

Hey everyone...I recently purchased a 2000 Outback Limited...great car but the "running lights" on the rear hatch (just below the reverse lights) get filled with water after a rain, car wash, etc. When I open the hatch afterwards, water literally drains from the sockets that hold the bulbs. I haven't disassembled the hatch yet to suss out the problem. Before I do, any suggestions to remedy this? I've been told that it's a common problem on these cars.

I live in Vermont...just didn't update my profile. You make a good point regarding the 60k mi. difference. My biggest concern with my Outback is the auto tranny. It's never shifted all that smoothly but I've never had a problem with it in 70k mi. I change the fluid regularly but wonder if I'm running it on borrowed time. The engine runs like a champ and is super clean. Any thoughts?

I currently own a '97 Outback 2.5 with 218k on it and am looking at a '99 Legacy 30th Anniv. Edition 2.2L 5spd with 160k on it. The owner has had many things replaced and has records but has never had to have the head gasket replaced or had any issues with the AWD system. I point out these things specifically because on my Outback, those repairs cost me more than $2500 and I'd like to avoid that if I could. I know little about this model year or the 2.2 so I'm searching for a bit of info from ya'll. Any insight you could provide would be helpful to me. Also, the owner has never had the clutch replaced or any tranny service since she bought the car with 115k on it. Anything I could expect in this department? Thanks to your help...

My daily commute mainly consists of a 10 mile, 3500' elevation gain stretch. On the return trip I coast in 3rd gear (97 OBW, automatic, 208k mi). When the grade levels out for the last 2 miles, I put the tranny in D and hit the gas. The car burns oil for the entire 2 miles (I can see this in the rearview). This is the only time the car burns oil like that; otherwise, it burns very little. Any insight as to why this is happening? Thanks for the help...

I'll be needing some emissions work done at some point. I'm getting a recurring p0420 code combined w/an EGR flow code but may be moving to Montana before my inspection is due...I don't have to deal w/inspection up there. I'm also getting valve noise or piston slap for a few minutes when the engine is cold. I don't know if I should have a mechanic check it out or not. It goes away shortly and the engine still runs like a top (at 203k+ miles). GT Automotive replaced my head gasket. It was expensive but a very complete service. The engine burns alot of oil but doesn't leak a drop of anything. I plan on keeping the car a few more years so I'd like to correct any minor problems before they become major ones. Thanks for your reply.

I recall seeing that at least one person on this forum hails from Salt Lake City...if you're that person (or one of those people), do you have a reliable mechanic (not a dealer) in town? Thanks TZ

I think you're right about the vent at the top...I noticed that some of the flluid was emulating from the top left of the AT at a point which could be the vent. That would explain why it was blowing onto the catalytic converter and onward to the rear of the car. Good thing that the hot exhaust burns off the fluid. Thanks for your reply.

OK...I swear I'm not this stupid... 200.8k miles on my 97 Outback and I just changed the AT fluid at 27k miles. The old fluid looked fine; not burnt, still a reddish color. I couldn't remember how much new fluid I added when I last changed it, so I checked around. The Haynes book on this car says 4q with a standard fluid change, 10q with a fluid/filter change. The auto parts store computer listed 7q. The owners manual lists 6q. There is little info out there on changing the filter; some say don't bother so I haven't. So, I drained the old fluid into a bucket and calculated the amount at roughly 10q (I didn't know the size of the bucket ahead of time so had to use a bit of old school math to figure out it's volume). I put 10q of new fluid in. The problem is, I have a really hard time reading the dipstick. With the car at normal operating temp, I shift through all the gears, leave it running and check. I just can't tell the level via the dipstick, whether I check it hot or cold. Well, the 10q proved to be too much. When I drove the car the next day, fluid spewed out (from where, I'm not sure). When I got home I drained about 3q and I'm going to check it tomorrow morning after I get the engine up to operating temp. So if that wasn't all confusing enough, my questions are: 1) How much fluid should be added? 2) Where would the fluid have spewed from (there was no apparent leak when the car was parked)? 3) What damage could I have done driving 100 miles with too much AT fluid in it? My car runs great and I'd like to get another couple years out of it, but I'm nervous about the transmission and would like to keep it running smoothly. The AT is just too expensive to replace. Thanks in advance for your insight. Let me know what needs clarification.

Regarding your DIY question, I just had the head gasket replaced in my '97 Outback (2.5l, 191k mi) by a shop that specializes in Subarus. They pulled the engine (and several shops that I talked to said they would pull the engine as well) to best access the heads. The heads were throughly checked for damage and warping and then resurfaced. Besides replacing the head gasket, they replaced the valve cover seals, separator plate, and cam seals. Labor accounted for the majority of this $1200 job...it sucked to pay that much but I left the shop feeling confident that the engine was tip top. My only regret is that I didn't bring my car to this shop in the first place. Good luck!

Does anyone have any advice on changing the auto transmission filter in a 1997 2.5 Outback (191k miles)? I cannot find any info regarding this in either the service schedule or my Haynes manual, but I know that the filter is available. I change the fluid regularly but my tranny still shifts rough...usually it'll "clunk" into the next highest gear and when I'm decelerating in traffic, it sometimes "clunks" into a lower gear. It is becoming more sluggish shifting into higher gears as well, though it has never shifted particularly smoothly since I've owned the car. I plan on having this car for a few more years but do not look forward to having to replace the tranny. Any advice, including possible fluid additives, would be appreciated. Thx, TZ

yohy, Thanks for your reply. The Haynes manual refers to this part as the lock pin sleeve, with 'bushing' in parenthesis. The mechanic also called the part bushings. I assume it's basically there to prevent damage to the caliper itself and to provide a smoother surface for the lock pin to move in. Though if it's there to prevent damage but cannot be replaced, what's the point? Out of curiosity, what's your opinion on cheaper aftermarket calipers as compared to OEM parts? I plan on keeping this car for a few more years and would hate to replace the calipers again.

I own a '97 Outback with worn bushings in the front calipers. I'm the 3rd owner; there's 180k mi. on the car. I'm not sure if the calipers have ever been replaced. The wear is causing play in the caliper resulting in noise during braking and I'm guessing the play will eventually result in more damage. The calipers themselves are working fine; pistons move smoothly. The lock pins (bolts) also slide smoothly and the dust seals are intact. I've been told (by a professional mechanic, but not at a dealer) that the bushings cannot be replaced...the entire caliper must be replaced. I trust this guy to some extent but find it hard to believe that the bushing can't be replaced. I've also been told that in the '96 Outback, the bushing is replaceable. I'd like to save myself $250 in repairs (that's if I do it myself)... Does anyone have any insight into this problem? Thanks