EYE_WHY
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Posts posted by EYE_WHY
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If you can find a hollow pipe long enough to get leverage on the bent end of the pin and twist it loose.
I'm guessing the pin is hanging straight down and won't move or turn at all?
even worse, its bent inwards facing the car.
I just want to get the hitch out because the ball is in horrible shape, I want to keep the actual receiver so I can get a new hitch. The hitch that is in right now is in un-useable condition which is why I need it out.
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I would go the tree route except that its the pin that is rusted in, not the hitch itself. The hitch moves around freely inside but the damn pin is rusted to it.
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My OBW has a hitch on the back that I neither need nor want. The problem is, the idiot that had the car before me never took the hitch out so the pin rusted on pretty good to the hitch. I can jiggle the hitch around and the pin jiggles around with it so I'm pretty sure the pin is rusted onto the hitch and not the outside receiver. I've already pounded the livin' tomatoe sauce out of it with an 8 pound maul, soaked it with PB blaster and heated it up with a propane torch. None of which worked.
Any other ideas?
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ya, wicked popular in the northeast too. I think they kinda take the place of the soccer mom van.
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I just picked up another pocket and a pocket with the closing lid from the junkyard so if I can't think of anything else to put in there, I'll throw one of those in. Thanks guys.
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If you only have single-din units, what is taking up your second din? I'm looking to put a nice new pioneer unit in, but I think it would look a little weird if I just leave the bottom din (cd player) there. Is there a cover or pocket I can buy that takes its place?
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In case anyone was wondering, I pulled the trigger on this. Unfortunately I am away at school and haven't been able to drive it buy my parents say it drives like a top.
you can also see my Loyale in the right corner, tryin to get rid of it.
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that's an interference engine and needs the timing belt replaced immediately.
check for torque bind. (you can search here for descriptions, testing)
the tapping is piston slap or valve noise - piston slap goes away or gets quieter when warm, is not uncommon and doesn't cause any issues. valves may need adjusted.
this should be a phase II EJ25, the plus side to those is that when the head gaskets start leaking they leak externally, don't overheat (unless you let the coolant get way low) and generally can be driven for a very long time like that.
Subaru adds a coolant conditioner to all Phase II EJ25's - i'd be sure to do a coolant change and add that conditioner.
if you have thoughts of keeping your loyale - that might not be a terrible option. the oil seals that are leaking are probably right behind the timing belt...which you'll have to change on the new car anyway - so you're not really saving any labor there. the other common leak is the valve covers...and those only take a few minutes to replace.
and with 125,000 miles it probably needs the ATF flushed, PCV valve, fuel filter, timing belts, spark plugs, ignition wires and diff fluids replaced...and the brakes will be in various states as well, as will be the CV boots, radiator hoses, clamps...etc.
if your loyale is running decent you might not save much in maintenance and costs that way. but you will be getting a much larger, nicer, and safer vehicle.
Ya, my parents really don't like the no airbag aspect of the loyale (even though I've had it for almost 3 years now). Problems are also really starting to pile up on it and honestly, as much as I love that car, I would rather get something a little more solid and safer.
Also, just got off the phone with the seller and he said timing belt and headgaskets were done at 80K so that is definitely a bigggg plus. He said brakes were kind iffy but rotors had been replaced at some point so hopefully its just pads which I can tackle myself.
Thanks for the advice guys
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my dad, who drove the car, also said there was a pretty noticeable tapping sound. Maybe lifters? Could this be potentially serious?
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I'm in the market for a newerish Subaru. Even though my 94 Loyale only has about 60k Miles, it needs lots of body work and has just started developing some oil leaks probably because all the seals have dried up.
Anyways, I think its time to move on to another Subaru before dumping too much into this one. I've found a 2000 outback with 125K on the clock and AT. Looks to be in good condition, no rust. Oil changes every 3K and it was bought new by an older couple. All regular scheduled maintanance has been done. Only thing I am unsure about is timing belts because I only talked to the wife of the seller and she was unsure.
Asking price is $4500 firm. I checked KBB and this seems to be a pretty good deal. Anything I should ask about or look for in particular? Thanks guys.
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I checked all the way around the boot and there are no obstructions. I really can't see any reason that boot would have torn, I checked it right after it was put in and then probably about 200 miles after it was put in and I didn't see any signs of wear.
There were acouple of loose vacuum tubes, so I tightened em and now all the heat/AC buttons work and I would assume that means the 4wd will work as well. Thanks!!
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oh yeah, and I forgot about the recurring exhaust leaks around the gaskets where the y-pipe meets the engine. I have already replaced both once, and they just blew again about a week ago.
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I've had my 94 Loyale for acouple of years now and a ton of problems are starting to appear seemingly out of the blue. The wagon only has 55K miles, its 4wd and has 15" Pugs with 195/55/15s on it. Anyways, here are the problems:
1. The A/C / Heat fan only works on 3 and 4, I've fixed it a bunch of times by taking that little box thing out and resoldering the wires together but a week or so later it will stop working on 1 and 2.
2. Happened very recently that the whole block of DEF/HEAT/BILEV/AC seemed to crap the bed. I can still get heat and cold but I am just using the slider on the left to adjust heat/cold. The DEF doesn't work at all, nothing comes out of the def. vents. No fuses are blown.
3. Front passenger side axle has been giving me a ton of problems. At about 54K I finally had a re-man'd axle put in after noticing the old axel had a ripped boot and all the grease had flown out. The re-man'd axle seized up so I brought it back to have a NEW axle put in it. As of about 5 minutes I just found out that the NEW axle's boot ripped open and sprayed more grease everywhere. So I don't know if I should get another one or just say hell with it. The driver's side axle is fine.
4. As of about a week ago I found out the 4WD button no longer works. I used it last probably in early April to get through some snow. I have no clue what it could be, no fuses are blown and I don't hear the usual "clunk" of it engaging 4wd.
I don't really care if my fan and defrost don't work, but the axel makes me a little nervous and the 4wd not working just makes me mad. I'm leaving for college in september and I've just about had it with this POS. I have already torn this car apart looking for a small electrical short that kept draining the battery and I really don't want to go through it again to fix all this crap.
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90 leg 232,000
81 Wagon 144
144 or 144k ???
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about to hit 48,000 on the 94 Loyale
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I never knew you lifted your wagon
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I know I haven't posted in awhile, but whatever.
I had been suffering from the soft brake pedal syndrome ever since I got the car (brake pedal suck to within an inch on the floor, not much stopping power). Now, all along I thought well, I must have a bad MC or bad gaskets or a leak in the brake lines somewhere and I never got around to fixing/investing any of these things. I had bled my brakes 5+ times and nothing came of it so I figured it was a hold in the brake line somewhere and just said eff-it.
Now fast forward to tonight, I picked a set of front brake pads today ($15) and a buddy and I set off to replace the pads. The pads were rusted on there pretty good, but we got them off and they were worn out to oblivion. After putting the new pads on and takin her for a test drive, the difference is INCREDIBLE and I havent even done the back drums yet. The pedal is now firm and strong and braking power is amazing.
So,.... just because you have a soft brake pedal (if I recall, this was pretty common around here) dont assume that it will be something as intensive/costly as replacing all the brakelines/replacing MC/replacing MC gaskets, it could be something as simple as your pads, and $15 and less than an hour could fix your problem.
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43K on a 94 Loyale, I win!
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Ya, get used to it mine is the same way. Also, don't be afraid to push it to 4500 or even 5000 when shifting. My Loyale loves the high revs and the high RPMs gets the oil pressure up!
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PS. Wasn't "Mirror in the Glovebox" an English Beat Song???
Wasn't that "Mirror in the bathroom"???
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How do you downshift into 1st when going like 10 or 15? rev matching wouldn't work right?
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Alright, I'll admit it, I shift at about 3k (maybe wind it up to like 5k every once in awhile but not often) but after reading all of this, I have been enlightened to bump up shift points.
One question though, lugging is hard to avoid when turning a corner or whatever and your in second going like 10 and there is no way you can shift into 1 but you are going maybe 1 or 1.5k in 2nd. Then it lugs and sputters up to 3k. I can't imagine there is anyway to avoid this luggin except maybe taking corners at 30 instead?
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but like i said don't quote me
Sorry, couldn't resist.
:D:D:D:DI don't think the year matters, I'm pretty sure that if GL wiring harness fits a 91 Loyale, it would fit any year Loyale. The key is finding out if GL harness fits Loyale harness, I can't imagine why it wouldn't. They tried to keep most electrical/wiring/connector things the same when changing from GL/DL to Loyale.
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Well, I just got back from a 300 mile road trip and about 50 miles into, the static stopped completely. How odd . . . now lets hope it doesn't come back!
Any other grille options for '00 OBW?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I just found this parusing ebay:
and was wondering if there were any other options if I want to do away with the factory grille? I think this would look pretty nice painted a glossy black.