joeo

Thank you for your reply. Yes - I've read through that document, but I still cannot find the connector to use. That doc says: Enter ABS system diagnostic mode by jumpering terminal L in the ABS check connector to body ground. Check the schematic in the service manual to identify terminal L. Note: Some models have a grounding lead attached to the check connector. I don't know which one is terminal L, and I'm leary about trying to just ground those pins, and hoping for the best! Thanks for any ideas! -Joe

Hi All - been a while since I've posted. The ABS light in our 1995 Legacy Outback came on - so I came to USMB! I found the method to check the ABS codes, but my Legacy appears to be different. I was trying to check the codes using this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4065&d=1154383816 But my setup looks like this: I don't seem to have the diagnostic terminals - unless that's what those two green things are. I know that when connecting the two green terminals, the check engine light flashes, and it goes into some diagnostic mode, but this is different than the ABS. Anyone know how to check the codes on a 1995 Legacy Outback? I'm stumped. I also checked over by the fuses for a two terminal conenctor, but none is present. Thanks very much! -Joe http://www.lovehorsepower.com//SubaruDocs/subaru_page.htm

That's interesting. The service manual I have is for a 1992 Legacy - still the EJ22 engine, and it shows 69 to 76 ft-lbs. That does sound low for a crankshaft pulley bolt, but it is what is specified in the manual. -Joe http://videos.lovehorsepower.com

Hi All - took some pictures and notes on replacing the timing belt and water pump on a 1995 Subaru Legacy Outback. Hope someone finds it useful! http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm -Joe http://www.lovehorsepower.com

Very glad you found it useful! -Joe http://videos.lovehorsepower.com

Thanks for the responses! I test drove the car today, and while I liked it, it had oil on the bottom, the coolant was low and very dirty, and it just plain had too many scratches on it. I'll keep looking though! -Joe http://www.lovehorsepower.com

I'm going to be looking at a 2003 Subaru Outback H-6 VDC wagon tomorrow. Is there anything in particular I should look for? Anything I should do in particular during the test dirve? It has 66,000 miles on it. Thanks for any thoughts! -Joe http://www.lovehorsepower.com

Got the check engine light and it indicated P0115 - "Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit". Took some pictures/notes of the process. Hope someone finds it useful! http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/CoolantTempSensor.html -Joe http://www.lovehorsepower.com//SubaruDocs/subaru_page.htm

Olnick, and jjou812 - you're very welcome! jjou812, your 1990 Legacy should be really similar. I used to have a '90 model and it looked almost exactly the same. I bought my axle replacements from a local Autozone - hope they are OK! If it's making a noise, I would check it out, or if it's still under warrenty from Pep Boys, ask them to check it out. Good luck! http://www.lovehorsepower.com

Yeah - for whatever reason I could not change the title. Could an admin change it? The article states it correctly.

Just went though this process as one of the CV boots was ripped - took some pictures along the way, and added some notes - hope it helps someone out. It's for a 1995 (not 91) Legacy Outback, but I think they are very similar. http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/CVBoot.htm

I recently did this on our 1995 wagon. Tooks some notes and pictures of the process. Hope it helps: http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/subaru_legacy_knock_sensor.htm

Our 1990 Legacy Wagon has an exhaust leak where two pipes appear to come together. I'm not sure how this pipe is supposed to look? There are two flanges that are spearated, and the two bolts have springs on them. Are these flanges supposed to be pressed together? Thanks for any help! http://www.lovehorsepower.com

I recently did this on my 1990 Legacy wagon. It wasn't too bad - bought a new bearing and had a local shop press it in. Took some pictures and notes of the process. Hope you find it helpful: http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/wheel_bearings.htm

Thanks for the comments! I used an impact gun to get the castle nut off, so having the car jacked up or not didn't make any difference. The problem that I had was the bearing came apart into to pieces. http://www.lovehorsepower.com

In the above link there is an MP3 with how my own bad valve lash adjusters sounded before I replaced them.

I finally finished replacing the front driver's side wheel bearing on my 1990 Legacy Wagon. It was a learning experience, and I made it a lot harder than it actually was. I took some pictures, and notes of the process - maybe it will help someone! :-) Wheel Bearing Reaplcement. Homepage

It's not bad at all - just have to keep stuff clean. I did a write up about it with pictures. Hope it helps. Legacy Valve Lash Adjuster Replacement.

I decided to just clean the bearings since they appear to be in good shape. Unfortunatly while cleaning, two of the bearings came out of the hub assembly, and I cannot find them. Anyone know where to get new ones? Thanks!

With an impact gun, if you switch it to tighten, beat on it, then loosen, and repeat, that can help break it loose.

The only way I could get it off was with an impact gun. Even then, it took some serious beating on it before it broke loose. I'm trying to change the bearings, but wondering if it is really necessary: Bearings - thread.

Hi - anyone know how to remove the bearings? I'm wondering if it is really necessary as the bearings are still silver and shiney, and don't appear to be scratched. Perhaps it just needs to be cleaned, and regreased? Thanks!

It could also be a bad radiator cap. HomePage

Here is the removed hub:

Thanks for all the replies. I have the castle nut off - had to use an impact gun, and it took quite a beating before it came off! I then used a puller to remove the hub. Here is the 'spindle' looking in: