North Ursalia
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Posts posted by North Ursalia
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12899&cat=918
are these gauges oem from subaru as well? That is one tight looking dash. Very well done... Price? ease of install? availability?
That's the Subaru OEM gauge pack kit for the naturally aspirated cars.
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Still doing these? If so, can I bug you for a set
?Thanks!
Brian
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Seriously though, just kidding
. I removed the dash to paint it (it's one of the last few bits in reconditioning all the plastic trim in the cab) and this is what was left. Below is the dash before in blue
and this is the dash after, in charcoal gray
I'm anxious to get everything back together to see the completed look. I need a favor if someone could though; I have been pulling bits apart since last August, and forget how this metal bracket attaches. Does anyone have a photo of their center dash area with the radio console piece removed? I can't figure out for the life of me how that metal piece above the shifter and to the right of what's left of the steering column in the last photo attaches to the bottom of the dash. Thanks!
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the one problem with d-con is- you do not know where the rodent will die, could be in a place you do not want it. a trap will get them right there. also be careful if you use d-con so that it is not available to other animals, pets, children or whatever. it has to be accesible only to the rodent to be safe.
The key with D-Con is to leave a saucer of water out near where you see their droppings/nest/etc. but "in the open" for a week before putting the D-Con down, and keep the saucer full. The D-Con makes them thirsty (it actually dessicates them from the inside out, and is a hideous way to have to die if you think about it) and they learn where the water is. You put the D-Con down a week later and keep the saucer there. They go to the water saucer out in the open, and keep drinking but of course die anyway, but they're in the open and easy to collect.
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I dunno
. I have three metal lines about 5" away from three metal nipples on the gas tank... I know I removed them from there (I have the old bits of hose still) but I don't know where each one goes is the problem. -
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I don't know why I forget to pay attention to things I would normally be very careful about with my Impreza (probably because the Impreza is on the only running car at the moment) but there are three small fuel lines running off the passenger side of the fuel tank near the filler tube on my 1985 Brat that I removed when I pulled the old tank out to put the heavily undercoated new rust-free tank in. Problem is, I forgot to pay attention to where each line went. Go me. At any rate, one of the three lines is smaller than the other two making it a no-brainer, but the other two lines are identical in size. What I'm talking about:
Body Side Of The Lines
Tank Side Of The Lines
Does anyone know which line in the "tank" photo is #1 and which is #2? The parts exploded diagram doesn't make it clear at all, and the techs at the dealership can't remember (granted, only two of them have ever worked on a Subaru this old). Any help would be most gratefully appreciated!
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gbhrps, on your car, it's often the case (sometimes, it can even be a bad knock sensor causing the issue). On CherylP's car, each plug has a coil sitting on top of it (four in total whereas you have one). While one of the coils could[/b] be bad, I'm hoping the first thing the shop did was try swapping coils from one plug to another to see if the misfire moved.
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You are only 6,000 miles from your warranty being up? The 36k or the 60k? The plugs are due at 60k in any event, and in all honesty I would change them out every 30k. If you are 6,000 miles from your 60k, it's not too soon to change them. To be even more honest, I'd change them out for coppers, as platinum plugs are for low maintenance, not high conductivity. You have to change them more often, but you get a better conducting plug that costs that $2 each instead of $13. That will hopefully help the misfires. WRX's misfire more often than the CEL will show, as the ECU is desensitized to them. Ask the dealership to see if your car falls under a reprogram VIN range.
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Could someone give him a poke? I'd like to resolve this amicably, but even my PM's have gone unheeded
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That makes me feel a bit better, but 6 months is AWFULLY slow
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I noticed something interesting here about the host of his email account, read info on site:
Do you have a way of driving over to the residence and inquiring in person?
Shawn, I saw that too, as I was digging into who is hosting his email addy for more specifics on his geographic location. I would like to believe it is just that the email is down, but it comes back saying the address was rejected, not that the account doesn't exist. I would drive down there, but it's at least 2 hours each way for me, and I was hoping someone local could poke him for me and say "hey, look at this." I'll try PM-ing him, but I don't expect any reply...
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Well, I understand that I suppose, but would it not be better to leave the street address out and leave at least the state in? I want to know if someone knows this guy, and leaving the state out kind of defeats the purpose. I don't care if my address is publicly visible either.
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Thanks for the words of support northguy. The person in question is on these forums, as this is where I found him. All I want is
A) the part or
the moneyThat's all I have been asking for since October last year
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Anyone know this "gentleman" who scammed me?
Andrew Parker
East Windsor, CT 06088
I say scam because he has refused to reply to my emails since February (which are now being rejected), no part has ever shown, and no proof has ever been given that the thing shipped. He said he sent one, which became lost apparently, and would send another. Neither ever showed. My check cleared the bank a LOOOONG time ago. I know it's only $6, but it's my $6 I wouldn't have thrown away otherwise. I have been more than patient and more than reasonable, but I'm done with it now. Here are some of the emails:
Any help would be most appreciated!It shipped...2 months ago? I still have the receipt. I'll go down to UPS tomorrow and see what happened.
Andrew
On Tuesday, February 10, 2004, at 12:11 AM, Subaru Ubergeek wrote:
> Hi Andrew-
>
> Any word on this (I almost forgot about it since it's been so long!).
> I
> never saw the original nor the replacement boot.
>
> Brian
>
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: GL rubber boot
> From: Andrew Parker <aparker@aparker.asnuntuck.org>
> Date: Fri, October 3, 2003 8:51 pm
> To: <info@subaruwrxparts.com>
>
> Hi Brian,
>
> Please send a check, I've had too many bad experiences with PayPal to
> want to use them again. Money orders, cashier's checks or personal
> checks are fine. The boot is in decent shape, no splits or cracks.
> I'll wash it before I ship it. If you'd like pictures, just let me
> know.
>
> Thanks, Andrew
>
> On Thursday, October 2, 2003, at 01:49 PM, <info@subaruwrxparts.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Andrew-
>>
>> I can send you a check, or paypal if that's easier. Let me know and
>> I'll get payment right out to you.
>>
>>
>> Shipping Address:
>>
>> Brian Batty
>> Subaruwrxparts.com
>> 37 Portsmouth Avenue
>> Stratham, NH 03885
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Brian
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Andrew Parker [mailto:aparker@aparker.asnuntuck.org]
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 11:55 PM
>> To: info@subaruwrxparts.com
>> Subject: Re: GL rubber boot
>>
>>
>> Hi,
>> That comes to $5.80, USPS priority mail. It fits in a mailing
>> envelope. If that sounds good to you please send me your full address
>> and mail me a check or MO to:
>> Andrew Parker
>> 9x Tromley Rd
>>
>>
>> Thanks, Andrew
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 1, 2003, at 02:53 PM, <info@subaruwrxparts.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> This is North Ursalia from the USMB. How much did you want shipped
>>> for that boot thing to Stratham, NH 03885?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Brian
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I work @ Exeter Subaru, more often known as Subaruwrxparts.com. I'm always willing to give a discount, and we ship anywhere Airborne Express or DHL will go
. You can get a hold of me with brian@subaruwrxparts.com -
Originally posted by theotherskip
rear main seal costs like $6 iirc, so i don't think it would be more than $20 installed IF they are pulling the flywheel, which they need to to get to the oil separator plate.
Um, you have to either drop the tranny or pull the fans out and push the engine forward in addition to removing the flywheel in order to change either the oil separator plate or the rear main seal. If you can find a mechanic to do it for $20 installed, I want him to do my engine swap
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It's not the diff seals though. It is the vent. Mine started leaking a few thousand miles ago (I'm at ~105k miles now).
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Radio Shack was a bust. I did find however that the heater control bulbs (72351AC061) from the later model cars will work. You have to remove them from their bases and pull the green color condom off of them, but they will work. It's nice having slow days at the shop where you can just play with Subaru's parts and see what will fit
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Originally posted by myles
What heads does one typically mate to these blocks? How strong are the internals? If memory serves, the EJ22T-equipped North American market Legacys made about 165HP, so the boost must have been pretty mild. Was this done for reasons of engine longevity, fuel economy, or what?
More often than not, we put 2.5L heads on the 2.2 turbo block- the flow characteristics of the 2.2 head are abyssmal when compared to the 2.5 SOHC head.
Originally posted by SnowmanNorth Ursalia, how much do those S.B.s cost?
$1525 shipped anywhere in the lower 48, or $1725 with a full engine gasket kit. I may be able to do a bit better than that though... I'll have to see if there is any movement room when I get in to work tomorrow. Feel free to email me brian@subaruwrxparts.com if I forget to get back to you
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Most of the current worms have their own email engines and spoof "from" addresses based upon email address in someone's address books. I get dozens of "you sent me a virus" emails every day
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Well, yes and no. They are probably very generic bulbs when you get right down to it and pull them out of the holders. This is the section I am speaking of BTW:
And this is the bulb inside the rubber socket:
Shawn- thanks for the heads-up; I'll be hitting up Radio Shack tomorrow, and I'll post a bulb number should I come up with one
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As a bit of additional information, I should point out that the center VC in the 5MT EJ series cars is housed in an extension case on the tail of the tranny. It is not internal to the tranny and can be removed with the tranny still in the car if you want to grab one from a junkyard to try out. They are also sealed VC diffs, so you don't really need the housing if you want to play with it, though the support and protection provided by the case is important.
wiring a 97 legacy l wagon
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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The Legacy and the Outback are the same platform- the reason they show differences is some cars have the plug and pray harness for the hitch, some don't.