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I had thought that maybe the lift and front/rear subframe could have shifted, causing the pull, but there is no pull with the original street tires. It's only with the mudders I get the pull to the left. No negligable change in pull accelerating, cruising, or decel. Havn't tried in 4wd yet.

Chaz, Sorry, but i think i tossed them - appreciate your offer to look at them though. I can remember the last place I went to said the right rear was out of spec, they asked if it was in an accident, which it hasn't been. The other place that tried 3 times before said everything was in spec, but they totally missed the fact that the front hub nut was loose enough to turn by hand! Fixed that with the front end rebuild... The odd thing is, even though toe is the only adjustable component, I would get different before and after readings for every value. I swear the first time they must have just drove it up the rack, fudged some numbers, and said "Here you go sir, thanks for the 70 bucks". To be fair though, they kept taking it back and I watch over their shoulder the next two at no charge. Still though, I just want the thing to track fairly straight and not chew the tread off in 5k miles. Carl

Thanks for the advice. I should clarify a bit though. Bought the new mudders/wheels as a package. Wheels were 15" wagon steel wheels by US wheel in the 6X5.5 pattern (toyota). The tires came mounted and balanced, and seem to be spot-on. I've tried rotating left to right, front to back, and x pattern, and still get the same left pull no matter what. It's really odd. 4 times they say in spec and straight, and the wheels/tires all seem good. Not sure what to do next. Maybe play with the height adjustment on the struts, but that seems to throw off camber severely. Carl

Here's a quick backstory: 86 Brat no accidents, aligned straight as an arrow with no odd tire wear for 10k miles. Put on a PK Davis 4" lift, left original wheels and tires on. Still straight as an arrow. Got Kuhmo MTs in 29" diameter on 15" toyota steel wheels. Put them on, got a pull to the left. Took to one tire place 3 times, they swore it was in spec and should be fine. No matter what they did to it, still had same pull. Went to new tire place, they said it needed new wheel bearings. So i replaced every wearable part in the front end, even new control arm bushings. Went back, they aligned it, still pulls to left. I put original tires/wheels back on (185 diameter, which i believe is 24", 13"stock wheels) and it's straight as an arrow again! the backspace on the new wheel is 4.5", which is the same as the stock wheel. It's about 1 inch wider total though. Could this shift the load on the wheel bearings enough to cause a geometry prob in the suspension, thus a really noticable pull to the left? No matter what mudder is on what corner, it acts the same. Believe the new wheels/tires to be symetrical and balanced, based on this. It's very odd, and I'd like to run my mudders all the time (looks very awkward lifted on stock rims), but can't stand the constant tuggin on the wheel, plus I know it will chew the new tires up in no time. Anyone have this prob before, and any suggestions? It would be very much appreciated. Hopefully, I can soon participate in some Mid Atlantic Suby off road fun... Carl

Got my new set of US Wheel 15" 7"wide 4.5" backspace 6lugs with Kumho Mud tires on, but now have a question about the wheels. Subaru factory wheel are perfectly flat where it mates with the drumface, but the us wheels have two ridges, one about 1/8 high just on the outside circumfrence of the hub section, and one about 1/16" on the inside, both protruding toward the drum (see diagram). So if you bolt up two of the lugs, then look through the other holes with no lugs , you see that the suface you bolt the lugs to has a 1/8 gap between the wheel and the drumface. My concern is;when I go to torque the lugs, only a small part of the wheel will actually contact the hub, also, wouldn't it bend the wheel slightly at the proper torque. I was thinking I could make a circular shim out of flat stock, that would fit in the little vally (with holes drilled for the lugs), but if I don't need to, I would rather not. Cross Section of wheel and drumface at one lug bolt (my best attempt anyway): TRY TO IGNORE THE DOTS - ONLY WAY IT WOULD LET ME DRAW IT! ..wheel ..........................subaru ...hub ............................drumface (imagine perfectly flat vertically) .....[ ...............................[ .....[............................... [ ......) -large ridge 1/8" .......[ ___[____________________[ -----> towards truck . lug bolt///////////////////// [ .______/////////////////////._[ .....} -small ridge 1/16....... [ .....[............................... [ Anyone have experience with this? Appreciate any help!

Thanks peeps. Sorry for being vague, I intend to drill the wheels, not the hubs (want to be able to use my current shoes) My best option is the white wagon wheels from US wheel, they look closest to the soob stockers. Morganm listed the exact process I plan to use, but I was thinking maybe it's better when re-installing to use the holes I drilled, as they should come out exact using the hub for a guide (ie 140mm apart vs 139.7mm) Not sure though, guess I'll just trial and error it. I'll probably have to open up the center bore too, as the chevy wheel I test fitted wouldn't lay flat on the front hubs. As with the strut adjustment, I remember putting them all the way up for max lift, but on the highway, my brat wandered like the drunk simulator car Dodge used to teach high-school kids with (so as not to drink and drive, not how to drive better drunk!). I'm gonna keep them all the way down now, not really worth the height. Thanks for the help, this is by far the best forum I'm in, and I've been in a lot (too many cars...too many projects)

Just ordered a set of 6 lug by 5.5" wheels and mudders, and was wondering, for those who have taken this route, if any probs show up. Things like not being exactly centered on the hub, warped rotors, off-center lug nuts... Thing is, I think too hard about this stuff. 5.5 " = 139.7mm, which is very close, but not exactly 140. This makes each opposing hole on the wheel 0.15mm off. Will this cause a prob, or am I being too finicky? Also, my 86 Brat, which I just lifted 4" PK kit, has the struts (front) that you can raise one inch by turning the two bolts on the bottom spring seat. Is this just for emergencies, or is it OK to get that extra inch all the time. Don't want to go through joints each month, you know. Also, I saw somewhere that some Brats have rear height adjustment through access holes in the bed. Mine has the holes, but no bolt to turn. Anyone know of a way to get an extra inch back there? Thanks, Carl

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The instructions say don't worry about it, but I'm somewhat of a completist, and want it back where it was, laying flat and not constantly lighting the 4wd light. Is it a giant hassle/not worth it? I had to cut the shifter boot's metal frame to ensure the shifter fully engaged 2 and 4. Carl 86 Brat

This reminds me... Pedal was always lowish on my 86 Brat. Stopped OK, and pedal never sank lower with constant pressure, just engaged lower than I'd like. I noticed when I adjusted the hill holder to the clutch release point that when the hillholder was engaged, the pedal would be perfect, and start pressurizing within the first 1/4 inch or so. Once the hill holder disengaged, the pedal returned to its lower engagment point. I figure maybe it's some bit of reserve space to ensure the hill holder wont get stuck on? Replaced the MC twice, still have same prob. I just live with it now. BTW, if I pump the brakes on a stop, it seems to bring the pedal up to where it should be. No leaks, and brakes evenly. Just my thoughts. Carl Arnold, MD

Thanks guys...this is a big relief. I should have checked the clearance of the upper seat to the inner fender. I thought maybe I had mucked it up and would either need intensive angle mods or removal of the lift. Thanks for the quick response, you rock!!!

Just finished installing the 4' front 3" rear kit from Ozified, which builds the BYB kit here in the states. Everything went together fine, except now the steering is hanging up/under tension. The prob is where the upper spring seat meets the factory top strut mount. This is the pivot point for the entire strut, and instead of rotating smoothly through the steering range, it is hanging up. When it reaches enough tension, it breaks loose, and you can watch the spring rotate quickly on the break. You can actually hear the clunk. ON the road, if I steer left, it won't return to center on its own, and pulls left. Same with right turns. There is no factory bearing, just a large greased washer with an oil seal. I did happen to buy new strut inserts since I had it all pulled apart (keeps the factory spring and upper seat/mount), and they look to be correct, but maybe something is up with these? Again, everything is installed per spec. Any idea on what could be wrong? I love my Suby and need to get it back on the road/dirt, where it belongs! Thanks ahead, Carl 86 Brat Arnold, MD