[ea82 front main bearing noise]

Yeppers!

The Drivers side Idler Pulley was shot. I can get the replacement bearings at my neighborhood parts store and press them into the sprocket.

 

Thanks again for all of your help:headbang: .

 

Sincerely,

CITRUSHARK

[ea82 front main bearing noise]

i doubt it's the main bearing.

if it is you'll have to remove the engine and completely disassemble. there's no easy way to drop the pan and start replacing individual bearings. the entire motor has to come out and be disassembled.

 

what kind of noise? is it not the oil pump or timing belt? any metal pieces in the oil pan? timing belt idlers or the oil pump could make excessive noise at the front of the engine depending on what happened to it.

 

that the timing belt broke and this thing started making the noise with the new belt seems to indicate to me that something is wrong with a timing belt related item...pulley bearings, bolts, pulleys or the oil pump/oil pump sprockets.

 

Thanks for the fast reply,

 

I will pull off the timing belt cover,and check the bolts and pulleys. It sounds like a loud lifter noise. But I know that they are hydraulic and would not make that noise.

[INDASH VOLTAGE guage GOING WHACKO]

Just thought I should finish this thread for helping others in the future.

 

I replaced the Altenator and the problem was fixed.

 

Thanks for all of your help:)

CITRUSHARK

[ea82 front main bearing noise]

I have resolved some very involved repairs with the help of some members here in the past. I have another that I am hoping to get some help on.

 

The Timing belt went out while visiting a customer. I replaced them. The car started right up, but had a very loud clanking noise. At first I thought it was a bent rod. However, someone said that it wouldn't be that because it doesn't have rods. He said that from the location of the noise, that it was probably the main bearing on the front piston.

 

I am hoping for some info on a few things.

 

1.) is it probably the front main bearing?

 

2.) What caused this

 

3.) what steps to take for repair.

 

I know I have to take off the oil pan. How do I remove the front main bearing? How do I install the new one. Is there specific torqing infoved. If so what are the torque specs.

Also any other steps or info that I would need for this.

 

Thank you in advance for your help:)

CITRUSHARK

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

I took your advise from earlier at the other post; after checking all the wires to the alternator, I replaced it. All is fixed and my sooby is running great.

Your welcome for the help Citrushark and glad it helped you out. There are lots of helpful folks here on this site that are willing to literally go the extra mile to help someone. I'm not so good with computers so maybe someday I will need your expertise.

 

If the voltmeter is fluctuating I would check to make sure the fusible links are making a good connection and use a voltmeter to verify the alternator output is stable. The internal regulator may have a problem or the brushes may be bad. It is the large lead with the nut holding the wire on. Be careful if you take it off as it is tied directly to the battery through a fusible link. Check the main ground leads also if other things are ok.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

Thanks for the info on the pump. It's nice to know how to bypass the relay.

 

It has been 2 days since I replaced the throttle position sensor, and it has been running good. So I've got my fingers crossed that the problem with stalling has been fixed. It has not spit or sputtered since.

I am still having a problem with the voltage gauge. I am going to the voltage gauge going whacko thread for that now.

 

I will post here in 5 more days; sooner if the car stalls again.

 

Couger, you have been very helpful. Although I have not met you, you seem to be a person of great character. It's not very often that you find a person that is willing to offer a good deal of help without demanding money in return.

My expertise is computers. Couger if you ever need any help with your computer, please let me know; I will be glad to help.

 

I would like to thank all of you that have taken the time to post help in this thread. I don't think I could have done it without you.

 

Thanks a Bunch,

 

CITRUSHARK

You should be able to hear the pump turn on briefly when you turn the key to the 'on' position. Check the relay if you don't hear the pump turn on. Using a test probe light across the wires to the pump will verify that voltage is getting to the pump if you don't hear it turn on. I think plugging the black connectors together near the ECU will make the pump turn on continuosly.

 

Check for spark also when this happens again by carrying a spare plug with you and plug it into a plugwire with the body of the plug on a good ground. You can also have a can of starter fluid with you to see if it is a fuel problem. If you spray some fluid into the intake and get no response when you try to start the engine then it probably is an ignition problem.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

Well the car has died a few times the last few days. And I am still waiting for the replacement parts for my computer so I will have to make this brief for now.

 

The ECU is giving me only one code which is the code for the throttle position sensor. I am wondering if a bad Throttle position would cause the engine to die suddenly while driving?

The car dies very simular to the behavior of a bad fuel filter(it has been replaced), well kind of. It doesn't really sputter. It completely dies; sometimes for a second or two and sometimes for 5 to 10 minutes.

 

I am going to replace the throttle position sensor today.

 

I have worked extensively with the voltage fluxuation problem that I am experiencing. That issue I am going to be posting in the other post I have involving that. I just thought that I should mention that the voltage is not fluxuating when the car is dying. So I don't think it is related or is causing it.

 

I have not been able to locate the voltage problem. I took the dash apart, etc. My biggest problem with that is the haynes manual does not show the wiring for the voltage gauge. In the Charging Circuitry that it shows, it only shows 1 wire going from the alternator to the fuse box, then from the fuse box to the warning light, not the voltage meter in the dash. So please let me know if you have any info for that.

 

Well after replacing the throttle position sensor, I am not sure where to go from there. The ECU is no longer giving me a code for the injector when it dies(after fixing the ECU). I am thinking that It could be the fuel pump, but I don't know how a sooby fuel pump would act if it is failing. Plus I will have to drive far and probably pay $100 for it. So I am not looking forward to replacing the fuel pump unless I know that is what's causing the problem.

Is there anyway I can verify the fuel pump?

What other suggestions does anyone have that could be causing this?

 

 

Yes. It very well may be a pump problem.

 

Great job on the ECU fix Citrushark. To make sure you are still not have a problem with the injector line you can use your voltmeter to measure the pulsing DC voltage on the wire that ties the ground to the injector. See what kind of voltage you get while the engine is cranking and works ok. This will give you a reference to have on hand. When and if the problem comes back then recheck the voltage and see if that checks out. If you have 12 volts then the ECU needs to be check again.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

Much Thanks for the reply Cougar.

I have so many things to say. For example. I am a computer expert. My computer got zapped by lightning 2 days ago. So with all the car fun,,, I have had to shell out 250 for my computer while workin here. I tell ya; When it rains it pours here latlely.

 

So forgive me with my spaztic response to you...

 

but I am confused how there would be a measruable DC voltage on the wire that ties the ground. I mean, after all, shouldn't it be measrued with ohmage, instead of voltage?

 

I was thinking that it was possible that the injector response from the ECU was ok with it being grounded out like it was before. I was thinking that the ECU didn't really even know that it was missing a ground on the injjecotr circuit. After all, the ECU was willing to provide a steady, constent, supply from the positive side even after missing a ground from a circuit that is only 2 wires on the injector.

 

well I can't say much more right now. But Cougar.. you said hang in there .. and I am, I'm tryin bud. Thanks for your help

 

 

Yes. It very well may be a pump problem.

 

Great job on the ECU fix Citrushark. To make sure you are still not have a problem with the injector line you can use your voltmeter to measure the pulsing DC voltage on the wire that ties the ground to the injector. See what kind of voltage you get while the engine is cranking and works ok. This will give you a reference to have on hand. When and if the problem comes back then recheck the voltage and see if that checks out. If you have 12 volts then the ECU needs to be check again.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

Well I've got good news and bad news.

The good news is that while tracing the circuit in the ECU, I found the cause of the gound circuit malfunctioning. Although there were no scorch marks, a break in the negative circuit occurred.

 

After repairing the circuit, I was able to start the car without the rigged up wire from before.

 

Now for the bad news.

 

I drove for about 25 mins. just fine. After which, the car did the same thing as it was doing before; it just died.

Just like before, it wouldn't start after a few atempts. I gave it a few minutes, and it started. got it on the road again, and it died again. So I did the same thing... Gave it a few tries, no luck..... Gave it a few minutes, and no luck. Gave it a few more minutes... and i t started again.

 

So I spent the next 2 hours driving it around the neighborhood. And since then I have had no problems with it.

 

Could that be caused by a failing fuel pump?

Your welcome.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

Thanks Couger. I do have a volt meter, and I will keep you posted

 

Thanks Again:)

 

It shouldn't hurt the ECU. I would recommend you get a voltmeter if you don't have one as it will help find the problem area. You could use a test light probe also. Place the tester at a point you want to test and start tapping around suspected trouble areas with a screwdriver handle. You should be able to track the problem down that way.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

One day it would be fine all day. The next day it would bounce between 8 and around 15 volts. It would do it if I was at a stop light, etc. It wasn't doing it only if I hit a bump or something. I checked the wiring at the alternator; checked the wiring going to the distributor, and the battery. I also checked the fusible links. I am not able to check it while it is running right now. So I am not able to trace the problem. It does not do it when it is not running(at all).

 

My main concern is putting in a new ECU. Of course I won't be able to do anything with it until it is running, so I guess I will have to put in the new ECU and then trace the voltage if the problem still exists. I am just concerned that the fluxuation in voltage will ruin the new ECU.

I wouldn't think the ECU is causing the trouble. Check the connection between the alternator output and the positive battery post. Also check the fusible links for a bad connection. How much fluctuation do you have? The problem could also be in the wiring to the meter. I would check the voltage with a DVM to verify the trouble area.

 

As far as your injector goes, the way I understand the problem is, the ECU is not making the ground connection to it. The circuit is open ended. You made a ground connection manually and proved that because the injector worked when the return end was grounded.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

I am wondering if a damaged ECU would cause the voltage meter in the dash panel to fluxuate? It has a new alternator, so I don't think that the alternator is causing that. I have also checked all the grounds that I can find, and checked the wiring harness, and connectors. I am also wondering if the fuel injector being grounded out like I mentioned could causde this?

That isn't too bad of a price but you may be able to get one for half of that if you do some more looking. Check the Marketplace section of this site and place a request for one.

 

I wouldn't worry about damaging the new ECU, I doubt there is a problem with anything external to it. It just failed internally, it happens.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

That is good to hear that I needn't worry too much about damaging the ECU. I am working with a couple of cats here at USMB. I have sent them a response to the info they have given me about some parts. I am hoping that I can get enough replacement parts so I can use my sooby every day, and not worry about it breaking down in the future. So many owners here talk about having 300,00 miles on their sooby. I can't wait to be able to drive mine.

That isn't too bad of a price but you may be able to get one for half of that if you do some more looking. Check the Marketplace section of this site and place a request for one.

 

I wouldn't worry about damaging the new ECU, I doubt there is a problem with anything external to it. It just failed internally, it happens.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

Thanks Cougar. I will research how to check the diodes and such. I found an ECU for $125 here in Florida. However, not knowing if there was/is something else that caused the ECU to malfunction, I am leary to spend any more time and money right now. I had intended to use this sooby and keep it as a backup for the future. However, Due to the loss of time and money during my sooby downtime, I am going to get other means of transport for now.

 

I fully intend to fix and keep my GL. It will probably be 2-4 weeks before I purchase or fix the ECU. So I hope everyone who has helped me will keep an eye on this thread.

 

Thanks everyone who posted on this thread!

 

TTFN,

CITRUSHARK

 

I

The transistor I replaced was in the fuel pump circuit. Your problem may have different components involved.

 

You should use a digital voltmeter to do the checking with if you do this. You need to trace the wiring from the ground side of the injector to the inside of the ECU and see what the contact is tied to. It may be going to a power transistor lead.

 

Transistors are basically back to back diodes and need to be checked for forward and reverse conductivity. Using a digital meter to in the diode check mode, the display will usually show between .5 to .7 volts in the forward bias direction. The reverse direction will usually show 'OL' or over limit.

 

You should be able to do a search on the web to find out how to check transistors. Here is one link for your info.

 

http://www.elexp.com/t_test.htm

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

That would be great if I could fix the ECU. I have a little experience with electronics. But I am unclear as to how to locate and test the TO-92 transistor you mention. Could you please give me a good description as to what it looks like and what readings I should be getting from them?

 

Thanks for your help,

CITRUSHARK

It sounds to me that the transistor switching in the ECU to provide the ground for the injector has failed. I would try another ECU to see what happens.

 

I have repaired a couple of ECU's that had the same problem with the fuel pump ground circuit. It turned out to be a small TO-92 style driver transistor had failed in both of the units. I found these by doing a diode test with my DVM meter.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

Thank you both ODDCOMP And COUGAR. It's helpful to get some info about the ECU Possibility.

 

I have located, and tested, both wires going to the ECU. They are both defenitely making a clear path to the ECU. Just as another test, I ran a new wire from the injector to the ECU. And as expected, it made no difference.

 

I have also checked the wiring at the harness, and cleaned all the grounds that I can find. I do have a Tachometer, and it works fine. So it does seem that the ECU probably is defective from what you are both saying.

 

So I'm off to see what I can do about getting a ECU. Please let me know if you can point me in the direction of one.

 

Thanks again,

CITRUSHARK

does your car have some for of tachometer reading for engine rpm?

actually now that i think about it ,, the ecu should be getting a tach signal otherwise it would not know its supposed to fire the injector

in turn means that if it knows it's supposed to fire the injector but thinks there is a problem it will throw a code.. if that makes any sense

 

as far as the cause to the problem goes.. i would almost bet money that the injector driver inside the ecu has failed "or"

the wire between the ecu and injector has failed

 

reason being is the fact the ecu is programmed to monitor things like how much voltage / amperage a item uses to function

correctly

so if a injector dies and it shorts out the ecu would see it as a injector failure due to the high demand being put on the injector driver

and it triggers a error code

same thing goes if the injector burns out and no longer provides any resistance at all

the ecu would "see" this and determine the injector load is to low and also signal a injector is fubar code

 

what it cannot tell you is if its a fault in..

the wiring

the injector

or the injector driver mosfet inside the ecu..

any one of those things going wrong will put it into a error code + not run or not run right

 

my best suggestion after you trace down the wiring harness and look for

corroded wires/mouse chewed wires

is to go find/borrow a spfi ecu from someone and slap it in place

and see what happens when the motor is wired up correctly

 

really as far as i know .. what you describe when you say the motor runs with the injector grounded out to the motor.. really baffles me and my current knowledge of fuel injection

 

realisticaly <sp?> grounding out the injector should be the same as flooding a carbureted motor out .. to dam much fuel and not enough air to support combustion

so the motor either does nto run or it runs.. not so terrific

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

Thanks for the info, I will look into adding some grounds. It makes good sense that all of the grounds for the ECU would use the same ground. I have located, and tested the ground that runs in the same wiring harness of all the relays.( the one bolted on the right side of the engine). could it be the transistors in the ECU that is causing this? Is the ECU BAD? And if so, why isn't the ECU giving me a code for it?

 

 

its a common ground shared with the rest of the ecu only difference is it runs thru a few fet transistors that act as electrical relays to pulse the injector open and closed in regards to engine load rpm maf reading ect the grounds for the ecu usually run up into the harness and ground out on the motor itself because of all the sensors connected it tends to screw up the sensor readings if the ecu grounds/returns are on the different part of the car than the sensors unless there is a dedicated ground wire run to the sensor and there usually is but it also usually all connects to one point on the motor then you have the main battery to engine ground and a aux ground between the motor and the framei usually add a few extra grounds just for fun

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

Well I have located the two wires that come from the injector to the ECU. Both of them are reaching the ECU. For whatever reason, the ECU IS NOT grounding the injector but it will provide voltage to it. That sounds messed up.

 

 

The car will run fine, real good, with the injector wire grounded with the bypass wire to the engine. But it will not start without it. For whatever reason, the ECU has decided not to give ground to the injector. One of the master mechanics that I spoke with said that it could be something in the distributor.

 

The ECU is only giving me a code 14(improper reading from injector). It is not giving any codes for the crank angle, or anything else.

 

I suppose I could check resistance, voltage, etc. for all the eletrical and mechanical components on this car. But there is obviously nothing too wrong with anything if I can start and drive down the road just fine. If there is something on the car that is telling the ECU not to provide proper signal so that the injector will not fire, it is because of design flaw. Afterall, if I cheat the ECU, the car will run just fine. but the injector will eventaully burn out. And if there is another component that needs to be replaced, it will be expensive, hard to find, and take 1 to 2 weeks to get here. Afterwhich, I have to live with the fact that if I am going to rely on this car to get me anywhere in the future, I know that I will have to go thru hades again just to get it running if something else goes wrong.

 

So far I have gotten alot of good responses. But still no definitive answer as to why the ECU WILL NOT GIVE THE INJECTOR GROUND. If I cannot find an answer without replacing the distributor to see if that MIGHT fix it, I am just going to junk this car.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

They are very different. For example, the crank angle circuitry is right next to the fuel injector circuitry on the 89 schematics. But it is on the seperate end on the 87-88 circuitry. among several other differences. I have done alot of research on this. My only recourse is to find the ground that the ECU is relying on to provide ground for the injector.

shouldn't all the pinouts be the same? I just used that same manual to help debug an 87 SPFI wagon I'm having CAS issues with. The wire colors may not match, but the pinout should be the same.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

The car starts and runs. It got me home after installing a new injector. But it is starting to do the same thing which is stall out after about 30 min. The ground that the mechanic put on the injector circuit is causing the injector to fail. I must find all the grounds that go to the ECU for the injector circuitry. I have used the link that you mentioned before to help. And the link contains pin specifics for the ECU. But it shows the specifics for the 1989 model. I need to get the detailed pin specs for the 1987-1988 ECUs.

get part 2 of the EA82 manual here: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

 

in the second half of it there are a lot of flow-charts showing troubleshooting guides for different components including the injection system.

 

Give it a look then let us know how it goes.

 

good luck.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

I appreciate everyone who has taken the time to post on this thread. But I still need some help.

Well the sooby is back at home. I located a complete throttle body. Come to find out, most states now have a state wide database for used part location, probably more than one. But I will have to leave that conversation for another post.

The reason is, there has been something done to this car by some idiot mechanic that caused the injector to go bad.

 

What he did was GROUND OUT THE NEGATIVE INJECTOR WIRE TO THE ENGINE:confused: . It is not supposed to be that way. Driving it home today, it started to act up again, and the ECU gave me the same code for the injector. I am quite certain that the injector has not been permanently damaged. The car will start with that ground wire from the idiot mechanic. When I disconnect that wire, it will not start. I have discovered that the ECU provides the ground for the injector. I have also traced the wiring diagram for the ECU that I have. The circuit for the injector in the ECU has a bad ground.

 

I am needing to locate 2 things.

 

1.) A wiring diagram that shows the complete details for the wires connecting to the ECU.(For 1987-88 SPFI Models) Example.(Red/white)[injector positive] pin 1...(red/Black)[injector negative] pin 2, and so on.

 

2.) pictures and or descriptions of the locations of all the grounds, or at least the ground locations for the ECU Injector circuitry.

 

Can Someone help me locate these two things?

 

Please Help,

 

CITRUSHARK,

Some but not all the MPFI engines used a dropping resistor. As for as I know, and I didn't see one in the FSM diagram anywhere, you do not have a resistor. If you did it would be bolted on the RF strut tower, but it's not there so don't bother looking for it.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

Thank you very much for your info. I looked everywhere, but could not find a resistor. With so many models being differnet I thought that mine might not have a resistor, like you and the manuals have stated. I need to know where the resisotr wires would be coming from. I have searched the whole engine compartment and the only ceramic looking item I could find was on the igntion side that came off some of the coil ciruitry. So if anyone can tell me if there is or is not a restotr for my vehicle, and what wires it would be connected to. That would be most helpful.

 

I have found the injector wires and they are 2 wires like you mentioned. I just have not found any wires holding a resistor, if there are any for my vehicle.

 

Thanks,

CITRUSHARK

the injector is constantly powered thru a resistor block that limits the amount of amperage the injecter can pull when the ecu grounds out the injector to switch it open and closed

otherwise the injector wold pull to much current and burn out he injector driver fet /circuit inside the ecu

 

that being said has anyone tested the resistor block to make sure its not cracked or damaged and providing power?

and the injector should be located underneatha small cover located in the bore of the throttle body

your wires your looking to test if i remeber right from junkyard visits will be coming off the side of the throttlebody

2 of them one black the other.. not sure

 

the non black wire wire should have voltage with the key on

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

Yes The connector is replaced with the injector. You mentioned that you got one form Tacoma PAP. That is what I'm hoping I can do as well; Get one from someone here. Anyone?

The connector for the injector on an SPFI car should be about 4-5 inches from where the wires come out of the injector (this is all from memory from when I replaced my injector on my 90 loyale about 2 years ago.

 

IIRC, I paid about $1.50 from the tacoma PAP for the injector.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

Thanks Cougar, I'm tryin.

 

 

The Connector to the iinjector does not seem to be removable like multiprot ones. I would have to yank it off, which I don't think I'm supposed to. Bit I am really hopefull that someone will have or know of a 87, or 86 dead sooby that I can get the electronics from here. I am happy to pay them for their time and parts.

 

I live in a small town. The town that the car is stuck has a few places, but I called them and They do not have any soobys of those years.

Citrushark,

 

Hang in there, we'll help you get it going.

 

You stated that you checked for power getting to the injector with a Noid tester and you got it to flash. Your next check should be to check the resistance of the injector with the connector removed from it. It sounds like you will find an open connection. I think the normal resistance should be around 12 ohms if I remember correctly. Let us know what you find out.

 

I would check for a used injector at a salvage yard or someone here may have one if you need it.

[Strandead Please Help!!!!]

I have used a noid tester to check for cuurent to the injector and there is current.

I don't know anything about this injection system but on the MPFI system, one wire to the injector is always hot. It's my understanding the ECU makes and breaks the ground side of the injector to make it fire/pulse. I'm guessing your system does about the same. May want to check the injector wiring harness. One of the wires should be hot. Could be as simple as a blown fuse or blown fusible link.

 

Miles also brought up a good point. The ECU will not fire the injector if it does not receive a signal from the distributor. But I would first check/verify the injector is getting current flow.