B99Brighton
-
Posts
20 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by B99Brighton
-
-
I have cured the steering issues with my 99 Brighton! I traded it for a 04 Impreza WRX!
Got a decent trade in value for the ol' brighton and had to do it! dealership in mobile called and said they had the WRX on a trade in so I had to check it out. 
Looks great and has 24K on it. Maintinence records are to a T. Needless to say I drove it home! Oh yes I have allready picked up a weekend job to cover my impulse purchase.:-\ Anyway just had to brag a little about the new-old car! This will be my third subaru, does that make me a loyal? Subaru rocks!!!! 
-
I had a similar problem when i swapped an engine in a 90 legacy. every test i performed turned out ok sensors, coil, wiring, etc.
I really was frustated at this point. When I unpluged the main harness from the engine to the harness that leads to the computer, near the fuse box, it had a bent tab in the harness plug. it had been bent over when we plugged it in causing the same two cyilnders to be inactive. of course we bent the small male spade straight again and connected the harness and it was all cured.
I don't know but it's possible that this same thing has happeded. or the wiring could have been pulled on and created a bad connection at the connectors. check that first before going through all the sensors and diagnostic procedures. It is the main engine wiring harness plug, there are three total plugs in that area.good luck!
I recently purchased a 98 Outback w/ an engine problem. It has the DOHC 2.5L .Trying to diagnose the problem.Rented and OBD-II code reader which shows "misfire on #3 and #4 cylinders". So far I've swapped the ignitor and the coil.....with no success.....still no spark on 3 and 4.
Plan to check continuity on wiring between ignitor and the coil.
I'd appreciate any other diagnostic tips.
Warren C.
-
I have the same problem with my 99 brighton. The dealership has told me that it ias a faulty wiring harness inside the transmissions tailshaft housing. THe wire is either too small to handle the load causing a short or the wires have rubbed together through the insullation causing them to intermitantly short out. If i remember right the new harness was around 149.00 and the tailshaft housing needed to be removed. sorry i don't have the part number anymore. seemed pretty expensive so mine is still not fixed. I don't need a spedometer to tell me that i am speeding:grin:
!My speedometer has a habit of occasionally dropping to 0 or not even registering speed at all. I've been told my 99 Legacy Outback wagon has an electronic sensor that is bad/dirty.I had a headlight with a dirty contact that the dealer looked at 3 times before I finally pulled it out and cleaned it myself (works beautifully now).
The problem is I'm not entirely sure where the speedometer sensor is on this car. On the passenger side of the transmission I found a plug and tried to clean it, but is the sensor attached there and how does it remove?
Is there a good manual/CD that helps identify things on the car? Anyone here know exactly where I should look or a good way to really clean the sensor?
Thanks In Advance
-
OK heres the back ground on my soob issues. When lived in colorado this winter i had a slight run in with a curb at a 10- 15 mph.
It did some pretty extensive damage to the left front suspension. It bent the lower control arm and it had to be replaced. While I did this I figured that i should also address some other issues with the car. I replaced the left lower control arm, the wheel bearings, ball joints and replaced the brakes with new calipers, ceramic pads, and drilled and slotted rotors from Napa. Ever since then have had some steering issues. I can feel a heavy vibration at highway speeds. 50-80 mph. the car also seems to float side to side when driving in a straight line. It will then pull to one side or the other upon braking. This also happens intermitantly when cruisin down the road. After taking it to an alignment shop they determined that the rack and pinon was also damaged in the accident. I believed, and the shop too, that the valve that returns the wheel to center was damaged and this was why the car would not feel solid in straight line driving and also pulled easily. The outer tie rods where also badly worn, could move them by hand. So recently i have replaced the entire rack and pinion with a complete assembly from the dealership. It also included the inner and outer tie rods. i then had it aligned by the dealership in Moblie, AL (my new home). The rack was a little expensive:banghead: . After about two weeks of driving and thinking the problem was corrected the symtoms returned. I am perplexed!? I'm not sure what could be causing the vibration and pulling conditions. It feels worse than unbalanced wheels and nearly every part of the front suspension is brand new with quality parts. The struts pass the bounce test and the upper strut mounts look and feel ok, no cracking in the rubber, etc. They are also noise free, no bumps or cluncking. Any ideas from the usmb that could lead me in the right direction? I know that something could be wrong in the rear suspension, wheel bearings or brakes so I plan to check that out when I replace the master cylinder and add a brake support bracket here in the near future. I will disassemble the rear and visually inspect it all. I will hopefully eliminate the rear as it definatly feels like the front because all of the symptoms can be felt through the steering wheel. Any ideas?? I'm just about out of them. thanks to all. -
I would get the codes read from the ECU. BUt it sounds like it could be a faulty knock sensor, if 92' are equiped with one???? It could be something as simple as a bad connection to a crank or cam position sensor. check all the connections. they both could have been removed during a timming belt service. But scan the ecu to narrow it down. good luck. check the simple stuff first.
ok i just drive my legacy to work and home everyday and it hasnt given me any problems until the past few days. i bought it used about 3 months ago. the guy told me that the old owner had sold it because it had jumped time. the dealer fixed the problem and it runs like new ( and it has ). now when you step on the gas just a little for like 6 seconds all of a sudden the rpm decreases and it sounds rough and the egaust is louder. the check engine light turns on when this happens. after a while of doing this the engine stops missing the cyclender and it runs perfect again and the check light turns off. i have replaced the spark plugs and gaped them right and i have replaced the spark plug wires. problem is still there what do i do???????? i need help -
Thanks for the input guys. I'll keep researching it before I do anything!
-
I'm looking to turbo charge my sub! any one know of a company that makes a kit to add a turbo to a NA engine. I got a 99 legacy with a NA 2.2L. I can't seem to find a company that makes a kit for my application. Also is there any problems with adding a tubo to a NA engine. will the internals take the extra punishment?
-
I was wondering if any one out there has performed a swap involving the jdm motors? I was debating starting a swap but really don't know what to expect. I have a 99 brighton that might become the new home to a EJ20DETT motor from the JDM people. I was wanting to know what problems I might encounter with the wiring, transmissions, etc? How do i identify what chasiss number I have? Most of these engines are from a GB5 chasiss. Can't find anything on the vin plate that will tell me what I have. Any help would be helpful:slobber:
-
Yea, it is a jdm engine. Any experience with them and/or retro-fitting one in to a us made sub? seems like a good deal but I am skeptical about it. I really what to keep complications to a minimum.
-
I was wondering what the letters on this engine code stand for. ej20dett. Any ideas what years it could be out of?
-
3 will result in lower gas mileage if used all the time. overdrive will be used even at low speeds with a light throttle position. Autos are made to be smarter than you are, so let it do its thing. It will downshift to the correct gear based on a few signals, throttle position, Vehicle speed and load. The later measured bythe map or masf sensor. The computer will then select the right gear for you.
-
What motor is it? I know the knock sensor on my 99 2.2l isunder the drivers side intake manifold. It is held in place with one bolt and takes 5 min to change. Not sure on a 2.5l. I had mine fail a couple of years ago. Sorry i don't have a part #.
I have a 2000 Outback (91,000 miles) with a PO325 Knock Sensor Code. I changed my spark plugs, ingintion wires and PCV at 75,000 mile with Subaru parts. What are my next steps. If I need to order a new sensor what is the part number? What are the instructions to change it?Thanks
-
Magazines like crutchfield usually have fitting guides, try them out if the speakers are fairly new.
-
I am a new visitor that is interested in finding more about everything subaru. I have owned two so far, a 90 legacy and a 99 L brighton. I was wondering if any one knows more about the ej22 motor in my 99 and its performance capabilities? Is this motor worth putting $$$ into? Or should I wait to find that 2.5rs motor I want to swap into it. I know the brighton is very plain jane, but I like the chassis platform because of its lack of weight, etc. Just wanted to get some outside opinions. Could i find a 2.5rs motor and manual tranny to swapp in without too much trouble? Dreaming about a STi.
-
I have heard of a recall with the master cylinders in up to 99 obw.check your manufacturing date, your sub might be included! Recall # 99v040000. I recieved this off of the progressive insurance page when i started my policy. If you car is not included in the recall check out firewall flex related issues. The fire walls tend to flex resulting in soft pedal feel even when the the mastercylinder is bleed and in good condition. check out Tarmac-usa.com. PDM brake support bracket. About you sound, check the the backing plate that protects the rotor from water and dirt, and when cornering could contact the rotor if it has been bent.
good
I've got tomorrow off, so I figured I'd drive the wife up to work and then take a look at the soft brake pedal that's plagued her '00 OBW since we picked it up a month or so ago. The symptoms:- Soft brake pedal: takes a few inches of travel to start grabbing. I've stomped on the brakes, bringing the pedal rather close to the floor, and while it does seem to stop the car fairly quickly, I couldn't feel the ABS kick in and I sure didn't lock up the tires.
- High pitched rubbing/grinding noise: didn't hear it at all for the first couple weeks. Occasionally heard it intermittently about two weeks ago, and it's gotten progressively worse since then. Only occurs when I'm off the brakes, disappears once I lightly press the brake pedal. Seems to occur intermittently when I'm turning, too.
- Car drops off speed fairly quickly once I lay off the gas. I need to compare this against my '97 OBW, to figure out whether it's something with the brakes or just me not being used to the AWD system.
- Stopped at an intersection, on the brake. Let off the brake, and the car just starts creeping forward, not as quickly as I'm used to in previous cars.
- Doesn't seem to pull to one side or the other under braking nor cruise.
- Did the quick test for the brake booster that was listed in the owner's manual and online, and it passed.
I was thinking it might be a stuck caliper, since her gas mileage wasn't all that great either. The ECU just threw a CEL for a dead O2 sensor, though, so that might explain the mileage.
I'm going to pull each tire off tomorrow, and get a good look at each set of brakes... pad wear, rotor thickness, make sure the wear tabs aren't hitting, etc. Anything else I ought to be looking at while I'm there?
- Soft brake pedal: takes a few inches of travel to start grabbing. I've stomped on the brakes, bringing the pedal rather close to the floor, and while it does seem to stop the car fairly quickly, I couldn't feel the ABS kick in and I sure didn't lock up the tires.
-
I also have a ej22 in a 99 brighton. I know that my heads are single port on the exhaust. I also am finding it hard to find any performance parts for the engine. Keep in touch with any info that you could share and i'll do the same.
-
JUst completed the job last night. Was very straight forward. only had to remove the center sway bar bushings to get the bar out of the way! Stopprd all issues!
-
I have had the same problem with my lights. Mequires makes a really great clear plastic cleaner and polish. its a two step deal but really works well with a small rpm buffing ball or pad. I used a kit from tool specialist that was offered a few months ago, i don't know if its still avalible, and it woorked great. It helped a ton. wont get rid of large pits and sometimes the damage it too much but it will help keep the light on the road ahead. The lights seem weaker because the light is refracted away instead of focused down to the road. careful not to burn the plastic!!
My favorite Subi of all time was our '88 GL-10 with the hi-lo transfer case and glass headlights. It was gutless, but what a champ!This '97 OBW I just bought has plastic headlight lenses that have yellowed. They also feel rough, like they've been sandblasted (duh!). Light seems to get through them and out onto the road, but I'd be happier if they were clear.
Aftermarket new HL assemblies go for about $100 a pop, plus overly expensive shipping. Wrecking yards are no help in the DC metro area. On my '94 Honda Accord there are about a bazillion aftermarket suppliers of everything from stock replacements to projector-type blingbling, and they're relatively cheap, but I haven't been able to find the same stuff for Subis.
Anybody know of any solutions to this problem? Ever tried polishing the plastic? Know of any aftermarket suppliers? I'm a cheap bastard from the era of $8 universal round halogen lights, so $500 JDM units are not in my lexicon.
Cheers.
-
I am replaceing the rack on my 99 brighton. Was woundering if there are any unique things i should know before i replace the unit? THe dealer ship I purchased it form wont give me any help as to the procedure.
Thanks
better low beams?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Try the napa true views, i loved them in my 99 brighton. I was very happy with them from a cost/performance combo. Good solid whiter light with out the drawback of blue or hid looking lights. Also you may try to polish your lenses, they might be scratched and pitted. this causes the light to be refracted in all directions instead of at the road. Meguires makes a great cleaner and polish to clean them up. use a low speed buffer to clean them up. but be careful not to burn the lens when you use a buffer.