B99Brighton

Try the napa true views, i loved them in my 99 brighton. I was very happy with them from a cost/performance combo. Good solid whiter light with out the drawback of blue or hid looking lights. Also you may try to polish your lenses, they might be scratched and pitted. this causes the light to be refracted in all directions instead of at the road. Meguires makes a great cleaner and polish to clean them up. use a low speed buffer to clean them up. but be careful not to burn the lens when you use a buffer.

I have cured the steering issues with my 99 Brighton! I traded it for a 04 Impreza WRX! Got a decent trade in value for the ol' brighton and had to do it! dealership in mobile called and said they had the WRX on a trade in so I had to check it out. Looks great and has 24K on it. Maintinence records are to a T. Needless to say I drove it home! Oh yes I have allready picked up a weekend job to cover my impulse purchase.:-\ Anyway just had to brag a little about the new-old car! This will be my third subaru, does that make me a loyal? Subaru rocks!!!!

I had a similar problem when i swapped an engine in a 90 legacy. every test i performed turned out ok sensors, coil, wiring, etc. I really was frustated at this point. When I unpluged the main harness from the engine to the harness that leads to the computer, near the fuse box, it had a bent tab in the harness plug. it had been bent over when we plugged it in causing the same two cyilnders to be inactive. of course we bent the small male spade straight again and connected the harness and it was all cured. I don't know but it's possible that this same thing has happeded. or the wiring could have been pulled on and created a bad connection at the connectors. check that first before going through all the sensors and diagnostic procedures. It is the main engine wiring harness plug, there are three total plugs in that area. good luck!

I have the same problem with my 99 brighton. The dealership has told me that it ias a faulty wiring harness inside the transmissions tailshaft housing. THe wire is either too small to handle the load causing a short or the wires have rubbed together through the insullation causing them to intermitantly short out. If i remember right the new harness was around 149.00 and the tailshaft housing needed to be removed. sorry i don't have the part number anymore. seemed pretty expensive so mine is still not fixed. I don't need a spedometer to tell me that i am speeding:grin: !

OK heres the back ground on my soob issues. When lived in colorado this winter i had a slight run in with a curb at a 10- 15 mph. It did some pretty extensive damage to the left front suspension. It bent the lower control arm and it had to be replaced. While I did this I figured that i should also address some other issues with the car. I replaced the left lower control arm, the wheel bearings, ball joints and replaced the brakes with new calipers, ceramic pads, and drilled and slotted rotors from Napa. Ever since then have had some steering issues. I can feel a heavy vibration at highway speeds. 50-80 mph. the car also seems to float side to side when driving in a straight line. It will then pull to one side or the other upon braking. This also happens intermitantly when cruisin down the road. After taking it to an alignment shop they determined that the rack and pinon was also damaged in the accident. I believed, and the shop too, that the valve that returns the wheel to center was damaged and this was why the car would not feel solid in straight line driving and also pulled easily. The outer tie rods where also badly worn, could move them by hand. So recently i have replaced the entire rack and pinion with a complete assembly from the dealership. It also included the inner and outer tie rods. i then had it aligned by the dealership in Moblie, AL (my new home). The rack was a little expensive:banghead: . After about two weeks of driving and thinking the problem was corrected the symtoms returned. I am perplexed!? I'm not sure what could be causing the vibration and pulling conditions. It feels worse than unbalanced wheels and nearly every part of the front suspension is brand new with quality parts. The struts pass the bounce test and the upper strut mounts look and feel ok, no cracking in the rubber, etc. They are also noise free, no bumps or cluncking. Any ideas from the usmb that could lead me in the right direction? I know that something could be wrong in the rear suspension, wheel bearings or brakes so I plan to check that out when I replace the master cylinder and add a brake support bracket here in the near future. I will disassemble the rear and visually inspect it all. I will hopefully eliminate the rear as it definatly feels like the front because all of the symptoms can be felt through the steering wheel. Any ideas?? I'm just about out of them. thanks to all.

I would get the codes read from the ECU. BUt it sounds like it could be a faulty knock sensor, if 92' are equiped with one???? It could be something as simple as a bad connection to a crank or cam position sensor. check all the connections. they both could have been removed during a timming belt service. But scan the ecu to narrow it down. good luck. check the simple stuff first.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll keep researching it before I do anything!

I'm looking to turbo charge my sub! any one know of a company that makes a kit to add a turbo to a NA engine. I got a 99 legacy with a NA 2.2L. I can't seem to find a company that makes a kit for my application. Also is there any problems with adding a tubo to a NA engine. will the internals take the extra punishment?

I was wondering if any one out there has performed a swap involving the jdm motors? I was debating starting a swap but really don't know what to expect. I have a 99 brighton that might become the new home to a EJ20DETT motor from the JDM people. I was wanting to know what problems I might encounter with the wiring, transmissions, etc? How do i identify what chasiss number I have? Most of these engines are from a GB5 chasiss. Can't find anything on the vin plate that will tell me what I have. Any help would be helpful:slobber:

Yea, it is a jdm engine. Any experience with them and/or retro-fitting one in to a us made sub? seems like a good deal but I am skeptical about it. I really what to keep complications to a minimum.

I was wondering what the letters on this engine code stand for. ej20dett. Any ideas what years it could be out of?

3 will result in lower gas mileage if used all the time. overdrive will be used even at low speeds with a light throttle position. Autos are made to be smarter than you are, so let it do its thing. It will downshift to the correct gear based on a few signals, throttle position, Vehicle speed and load. The later measured bythe map or masf sensor. The computer will then select the right gear for you.

What motor is it? I know the knock sensor on my 99 2.2l isunder the drivers side intake manifold. It is held in place with one bolt and takes 5 min to change. Not sure on a 2.5l. I had mine fail a couple of years ago. Sorry i don't have a part #.

Magazines like crutchfield usually have fitting guides, try them out if the speakers are fairly new.

I am a new visitor that is interested in finding more about everything subaru. I have owned two so far, a 90 legacy and a 99 L brighton. I was wondering if any one knows more about the ej22 motor in my 99 and its performance capabilities? Is this motor worth putting $$$ into? Or should I wait to find that 2.5rs motor I want to swap into it. I know the brighton is very plain jane, but I like the chassis platform because of its lack of weight, etc. Just wanted to get some outside opinions. Could i find a 2.5rs motor and manual tranny to swapp in without too much trouble? Dreaming about a STi.