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  1. Hi All, Been a member for a number of years, since i have a '79 BRAT. Latest thing is my 17 YO daughters first car. Found a 2001 Forester, decent shape, ran well, so bought and began setting it up for her to use during an internship and proposed to get her through most or all of college. First thing was timing belt, water pump, idlers, tensioner, etc, along with full oil change and tires. It ran well for her for two and a half months. Then something "bad" happened. Sounded like a spun bearing, and we didn't have the weeks needed to get the machine shop work done to rebuild. JDM EJ20 swap to the rescue. Many say this is a direct drop in, with two "pulley changes": Drivers side cam pulley and crank pulley. Yes, these do need to be swapped, but there are a few other items as well. First DON'T PULL THE ENGINE WITH THE TORQUE CONVERTER ATTACHED!!! I did, and will never do so again. The litttle spring clip cost me half a day between fighting it and researching why the convert would not go back. Second, the knowck sensor connector was different, so I swapped those, as well as the temp sensor. The water cooled oil cooler did not swap over (I don't care for them0, so the supply for that needed a block-off. A note of issue with the rubber gasket around the cam belt cover: The rubber deformed on re-install and began rubbing on the waterpump pulley. This is not a real issue, but it created a high-picthed sound similar to a bearing failing. I thought I would have to replace the just-installed water-pump (All idlers, tensioner, etc were swapped from EJ25 to EJ20, since they were brang new with less than 2000 miles) Keep this oin mind for future reference, I almost didn't find it, but running the engine without the timing belt cover there was no sound, when re-installing to check, the thing would not go on, and I found the rubber deformed from rubbing... So, that is my experience thus far. Little things kept needing to be swapped; small hoses, crankcase vent hoses, extended wiring for temp sensor to reach new location on EJ20, et. etc. etc. Otherwise, it went in well. By the way, the EJ20 IS smoother than the EJ25... Now I have no spark on cylinders 1&2. This is intermittent, and when I pull one of the plug wires from the coil, I get arcing from 3&4, nothing from 1&2... most of the time. Occasionally I had been able to get spark by pulling a plug wire from 1&2, then the engine would run great. I suspect the coil pack. Am I off base? I will pick up new wires and plugs this afternoon, and maybe a coil pack, as well as some EFI hose to replace the transmission cooler hoses which are showing deterioration.
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