I'm working on replacing the head gaskets on my 2.5 DOHC 99 OBW EJ25D. The crank pulley doesn't have any marks on it except for a white paint line that looks like it's left over from some previous work. My question is how would you use a timing light on the engine? There's nothing on the pulley line up to the timing markings on the belt cover. Does the OEM pulley have markings?

 

Also, the endrench article about changing the tbelt got me nervous about not using the camshaft holder tool to keep the valves from turning the cams when I take the belt off and thus bending the stems. Is this a valid concern? The FSM only mentions the special tool as used to remove the cam pulley bolts. It seems that most of you don't use this tool and instead use a section of belt or a strap wrench to hold the cams.

 

I know that it's extremely important not to turn the cams, but do they turn that much on their own when you remove the tbelt?

 

Thanks for the help!

there's no timing concerns here, you can't time this engine, there's no distributor to adjust.

 

the mark was probably to check to see if the pulley was separating, a common failure mode.

 

remove the cam bolts with the belt still on the car. impact wrench is best. a strap or chain wrench around the cam after the belt is removed should work.

 

the special subaru tool does not hold up well to torque at all and should not be expected to be used to remove the bolts. they easily bend, as a friend of mine (also living in Atlanta) found out last week. the tool bent and failed and never got the bolts loose.

Thanks! I figured that the marks are useless. The only reference I could find to timing was in getting the marks lined up on the cams, crank, and belt. Is the middle belt cover the same as used in the EJ22 or other engines that do require timing adjustment?

 

Also, just curious, how far can the cams rotate from their TDC positions before the valves start to interfere? (Assuming that you keep one cam still and move the other)

You'll feel it stop when the valve hits the piston. When number one is at tdc number 3 will be at bottom center of the exhuast stroke. (I think) so you might get a 150° turn from the cam on that side before the valves hit the number one piston. The number 3 is in no danger, same as the number 2. The number 4 however, would be on the top of the exhaust stroke so you might only get 20 - 30° movement before hitting the piston on that side.

I thought the real danger is that the valves interfere with each other and bend themselves. I think that damage could be done before I felt it or if the cams had some momentum built up after they're released when I remove the belt.

 

Here's what the FSM says:

 

Sorry, I was thinking single cam. I wouldn't figure the valves would be close enough together to hit each other, but if that's the warning then I'd be sure to follow it. Still you're gonna have a fair amount of wiggle room despite. What you don't want to happen is for the cams to rotate in opposite directions. Subaru probably makes a special tool that fits between the sprockets that will keep them from turning if you're really worried about it. I think as long as you leave them alone they should stay put.