91 Legacy 2.2 non-turbo

I'll try to be brief. I was having problems with cold weather starting this winter. One time after jumpstarting I was getting poor performance so I pulled the codes when I got home. Had the usual 35 EVAP (I'm sure this contributed to the starting issue) and also the coolant temp sensor. Bought the sensor but ran into the problem that it was so cold (I don't have a garage and was working in the driveway) that some of the hoses didn't want to come off and I cracked one. Decided to wait to finish it and added some coolant and put it back together to see if it would run better with some added coolant. When I went to start it there was a loud noise and then it sounded like it didn't want to catch. My immediate thought was something was froze and the timing belt jumped. This happened when the water pump went out years ago. It is due for a belt anyway but my question is can the belt be easily moved and are the timing marks usually visible without a full replacement?

 

I know the right thing to do is just change it out but I would like to make sure this is the problem and not something more serious before I invest in a new belt. I also would like to drive it to a garage to change the belt if possible.

 

Anybody been able to adjust this without disassembling the whole thing?

once you have it apart the first time, if you leave the belt covers off, it will save you a lot of disassembly to remove the belt. you will have to remove the crank pulley to view the mark on the crankshaft sprocket.

my guess is that something, belt or idler, broke when you heard the loud noise. if it is the belt, yes you can just replace it.

 

if it is an idler, well now you need to replace it. for the cost of one idler and a belt from subaru, you can get a kit from "theimportexperts" on ebay, $125, i think. this is probably cheaper than a local kit.

 

at this point all you will be saving not to do them all is the 30 min. it takes to bolt on some idlers.

Thanks for the help so far. I finally had a few minutes before it got dark last night and losened one of the belt covers. It seems that the belt is not broke and tight, so I'm guessing the idler is ok? I am wondering if it would be better to put a timing light on it before taking the crankshaft sproket off. I have a timing light but have never used it. Any tips? Does it matter to the timing light if it won't start? I see there is a small plate with lines and numbers near the crankshaft that I assume relate to the timing. Any other tips would be appreciated.

 

Also, do any of you have the service tools for things like changing the timing belt or do you all just make do with screwdrivers and pliers and such?

FINALLY got back around to dealing with this

 

Anyway, got the covers off and it looks like maybe the driver side cam is one tooth off. Would this be enough to make it not start or am I likely dealing with something else? Marks on the belt are long gone; I tried to make a couple new ones but not real confident they will last. Can anyone give me any tips on counting teeth on the belt? Endwrench says the passenger side should be 44 teeth and the drivers 40.5, how exactly does that work?

 

FYI I plan to replace most of the timing parts when I determine that the timing was the issue but want to put it part way back together to make sure this was the inital problem and that it will start.

 

Thanks

Update:

Pretty sure I got it back together with the belt in the correct spot and it still won't start. It spins fast and sounds like it doesn't have compression. I still need to check the obvious stuff but wanted opinions about two things that trouble me:

 

1. As mentioned, a couple hoses on the emissions system are deteriorating or cracked. I tried to put duct tape around them to seal them off temporarily. Would this be enough to make it not start?

 

2. When I was lining up the timing belt I noticed that the passenger cam gear turned fairly easily by hand while the drivers side was stiff and would wind up tight then release and spring forward. Can I pull the valve covers off with the engine still in and get a look at the cams? Which side sounds like it is wrong?

 

Thanks

Update:

2. When I was lining up the timing belt I noticed that the passenger cam gear turned fairly easily by hand while the drivers side was stiff and would wind up tight then release and spring forward. Can I pull the valve covers off with the engine still in and get a look at the cams? Which side sounds like it is wrong?

 

Thanks

 

 

in the correct timing position, the driver side will have tension on it , maybe try to spring to a different position. the passenger side will be relaxed. but if you rotate them each 180* they should feel the same, tight and loose. if one is loose all the time then yes pull the valve cover, there is some thing wrong.

Thanks again for all the help, this board is so valuable! Too bad this may be too much to fix.

 

After it wouldn't start I pulled the plugs and had spark. I pulled the fuel line off at the filter and had fuel when I turned the key on so figure that is good. I went and bought a compression tester and rigged it up. I think I was doing it right (pulled all the plugs, unplugged the coil and all the fuel injectors) but only got a reading on the number 3 cylinder. Sounds bad to me. Is this motor shot or maybe just the heads or is there something I am missing.

 

Like many others on here I have more time than money so if it can be fixed I would like to do that. Best thing might be to swap it with another motor?