johnceggleston

Who steals a 9 year old Subaru from a downtown parking garage? Meitner some guy looking for parts or the dumbest crook on earth? or I guess maybe just a guy proving he can do it. Anyway, I’m waiting on details about the car from. A friend. If you have any info holler .

i didn't know that. but you have to compress the caliper in order to install new pads. no other way to do it. right?

does this sound logical to you? when replacing the master cylinder, after the new one is reinstalled, if you compress the brake calipers , one or more, you will force brake fluid and any air in the brake line at the mastrer back up into the reservoir. this will eliminate the need to completely bleed the entire system? true or false???? thanks.

the GT rear is a 4.11 ratio. and was /is a vlsd, locking diff. so a rear diff from an outback or GT, 01 - 03, H4, manual trans will match and be locking. a forester manual trans will match the raio, i do not know if it is locking. but the rear diff from an impreza (not wrx) auto trans or lego L, brighton, or LS auto trans 00 - 03 will also work, just not locking. for that matter, any rear diff from and auto trans car lego 95 - 99 with ej22 engine, or any 93 - 97 auto trans impreza with ej22 or ej18. lots to pick from. check out www.car-part.com sort by zip code, shipping will be expensive.

this is a wiring problem. in my opinion. do you have a dented trans oil pan? do you have mice or rodents chewing on wires? i would trace the wire runs from end to end. maybe check thr large connectors on the rear passenger side of the engine first. look for dirt, corrosion, bent pins, or loose connections. it maybe could be the TCU, but i would check it last. they don't fail often.

also, if you miss getting into programming, there is a required '' wait period'' before you can try again. so if it does not work, do not bother trying again right away. i printed the instructions, and tried it once every time i got in the car to go some where. eventually it worked.

buy and install outback (00 - 03) struts on your lego. easy to do and not very expensive. plus, your lego struts are probably 15 years old. they may be due. then, if you can live with your speedo reading too SLOW, you can install larger, outback tires (and wheels). there are other things you can do, but this is easy.

i had my rear seal ''blow out'' of my 95 while driving on the hiway. there was a shudder and a bang. i drove straight to a shop and had the seal replaced. later in the evening my car would not back up, no reverse. i bought trans fluid and added 3 qts. and drove back to the shop. the dumb a$$ replaced the seal but did not add any fluid. he said the dip stick read full. dumb a$$. so the answer to your question is, it all depends on how much fluid lost and how long it was fluid starved. if you do the woirk yourself it would not cost much to find out. i drove my 95 for several months with no reverse. it never progressed or got any worse, and some times reverse would actually catch and work. but i had to be really carefull where i parked. good luck.

the FWD fuse does nothing mechanical, it activates the duty c solenoid which then de-activates the transfer clutch. this eliminates the power to the rear, making the car Front Wheel Drive. this is not the same as installing a switch that ''locks'' the front nand rear wheels together like a 4WD truck with locked hubs.

the reason they are not reversible, the axle stubs have an odd number of splines. on one side the hole centers on a valley, on the other side it centers on a peak.

here's a good link to noise diagnosis. http://remanufactured.com/Engine_Diagnosis_101.htm rod knock will go away when you disconnect the plug for the bad cylinder. read up. from the above link

you turn the key and the engine does nothing? or the engine turns over but does not fire, does not start? usually 2 different problems. a bad battery did this to me once. if ti turns over, check the timing? the AT Temp light can be triggered by a few engine issues tps maf or just a bad wire issue maybe. or of course an actual trans electrical issue. but since it does not run, probably an engine issue.

assuming it is an auto trans car, and not the 3.0L engine the FWD fuse should be located in the fuse box under the hood. the fuse should be labeled, but i'm pretty sure it is in the rear corner next to the washer fluid tank. take it easy on your drive and you should be ok. usually it takes a long time to actually fail, fall apart. and i'm sure it will make a lot more noise before it does. good luck.

you do not need to swap the intake manifolds, there is no difference between them. except the 95 will have EGR. but the computer will not be looking for or sending any EGR info so no worries. this also means there is no need to plug the EGR hole in the head. swap away, simple and easy.

yes, swap the engine with the exhaust y-pipe and all will be good. simple and easy.

BETTER TO USE A 22MM? VSOCKET and breaker bar ON THE CRANK PULLEY BOLT, AND ROTATE IT BY HAND UNTIL IT IS LINED UP. USING THE STARTER IS NOT ACCURATE AND WILL TAKE A LOT OF LUCK TO GET RIGHT. and given your lack of knowledge, i recommend buying a manual at the parts store and reading up. sorry for the caps, to tired to re-type.

hoW MUCH COOLant are you adding every day? if the system is not full, it will expel ''air'' as the system heats up, and suck back coolant as it cools. over time it should stabilize. if not, you have a leak.

the 01 engine will not swap into the 98 car. not easily. you need a 96 - 99 ej25 engine . or a 95 - 98 ej22 engine w/ egr.

what he said. if the crank sprocket looks different, swap it. i would swap the driver side cam sprocket just in case. once they are both off you can look atr the back side to see if they are different. but once off, it is no more work to swap than to re-install the original. (TIP: break the cam shaft bolt loose before you remove the t-belt.) the cam and crank signals MUST match the ECU, and the ecu MUST match the wiring in the car. so the sprockets are the easy step to ensure it will work. i would probably also swap the intake manifold. you may not need to, the sensors and harness may be the same, but again, if you do need to, easier to do it with the engine out of the car. after that, the ecu thinks the original ej25 is in the car. good luck.

or if the oil is on the lower side of the plug boots, it could be the valve cover gaskets.?.?.?.?

no problem. use the ''new block with heads, and bolt on the existing intake manifold with wiring. it will match perfectly . the only possible issue would be if the existing 95 ej22 has EGR and needs EGR. then you would have top do the EGR ''work around" since the 91 ej22 does not have an egr port threaded in the head. but the work around will correct that, if needed. and it is easy enough to do. so check to see if the existing engine has EGR. or not. the 91 engine will fit and run. no problem. good luck.

what type of t-belt tensioner does it have?

tires to half pressure can help. but if off the ground it is less important.

thanks guys. it makes more sense to me now. isolate the harness from the sockets and test it. add back sockets one at a time until i find the fault. as much as i may have been fumbling yesterday, i feel like i now have a direction. time to buy a six pack and turn on some music while i work. thanks.

any one else had this problem????? 97 GT w/ej22, auto trans, 165k miles, red wagon, needs tires, clear coat peeling i have a pretty good understanding of electricity, more 120v than 12v, but i really do not have the patience to track down electrical problems. but i can't afford to send the car to the crusher either. i have been putting this off for a few weeks while driving my son's 98 obw. i blew the fuse for my brake light circuit, partially melted it. this fuse also controls the trans shift lock out and the horn. (i experienced this a few years ago but it corrected it self, go figure. i'm thinking loose wire?????) my first thought was my trailer lights connection, but no. still there after removal. i pulled up the harness diagram and started with the center brake light at the top of the hatch. undo the connector at the light and check continuity on the harness between the black and the white/blk, dead short. it acts just like i touched the probes to each other. (i'm ASSUMING the black is the ground and the white/blk is the power???) i disconnect the harness at each brake light fixture and have the same results. so far the problem is up stream of the actual bulbs, i think. i then put the hatch back together and re-connect all the fixtures. oops, i didn't check the connectors at the chassis brake lights. next i disconnect the chassis harness from the ''hatch'' harness. (under the right rear tail light ) hatch harness has black and white/blk wires, (there is no other connector between there and the connectors at the hatch bulbs.) chassis wire colors may be different, i'll have to re-check and edit. i looked for a broken wire where the harness jumps from the chassis to the hatch, it all looked good. my rear wiper motor has never worked but the motor is good, i expected to find a broken wire at the crossover, jump point. but here is where it gets squirrelly. BOTH sides of the connector, both harnesses show the white/blk wire direct to ground. the hatch harness shows white/blk as ground, and the pin it connects to on the chassis shows the same. i must be doing something wrong. or my logic is wrong, i know i didn't let the white smoke out of the meter. do you see any obvious mistakes? is there a chance the white/blk is actually the ground? every other black wire shows ground. the brake light bulbs SHOULD show some resistance, right? or wrong? i guess i should remove all of the brake light bulbs and start over. i'm lost. any suggestions? thanks. ps: i ordered wipers from rockauto last month and threw in a brake light switch for $2.45, i guess i could install that as well?