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SOLVED: Spraying gas

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Ok, got a new evap canister, got it installed. Engine idles at 3K. reving doesn't drop it. Aside from that all seems to be working.

 

Took it for a 1/4 mile trip and it lost power and barely made it home. Lift the hood and there had been fuel spraying inside the engine comp from an unknown source but it did hit the hood.

 

EGR valve was leaking earlier when my issues started, could it be the culprit?

Edited by MaddCelt

Check all the hoses for the fuel sytem (pressure line from pump to carb, return line, vent line) for any damage or signs of a leak. Is the fuel pump stock or a stock replacement? If it's not, check it to make sure it's not putting out more than 5 psi. Check the gaskets at the base of the carb, and look over the carb real good. It could be that the vent line or return line is clogged or plugged off, causing pressure to build in the gas tank and pressurizing the lines in the engine bay, I've had problems kinda like this on a couple cars I did Weber swaps on and it was because I capped the fuel vent line...

 

-Bill

  • Author

Well, it seems that either I have another bad evap canister or the possibility that the return line could be plugged.

  • Author

Ok, got the same problem it seems as the last time, so I want to recap what I have done up to the point of the problem.

 

Started out with a leaking fuel tank. Since it could not be dropped to check for the leak,

 

I installed a simple fuel tank off an older Toyota, got the lines hooked up.

 

It drove fine for the first day, then the evap canaster leaked, so I removed that.

 

Weeks later I get another canister from a junk yard and get it installed today.

 

Took it our for a quick spin around the block, engine runs ok for a min, then starts choking and dies when I get it home. Lift the hood and there is fuel sprayed inside.

 

Engine idles at 2 to 3K rpms

 

Double check lines and all is ok. Tried the old canister and the same effect happens when I drive it.

 

Cannot find any vacuum leaks, adjust the gas pedal cable to get the rpm's down to 1.5K. Take it for a spin, same effect but I hear a hissing sound as I pull back in the drive. Check it out and the new canister is leaking. I pull the fuel tank return hose and try not to lose too much gas as I plug it. If this is to run back to the tank, why is it pouring back out at the canister? Plugged?

 

If so I can see it backing up into the canister and overflowing and causing a spray.

 

Am I right in this train of thought?

 

Also, what is this and what does it connect to?

29821_1427046352227_1114842834_31266307_8303248_n.jpg

The fuel return line from the carburetor should run back to the top of the gas tank. The vent line should run from the top of the gas tank to the evap charcoal canister. Fuel pump pressure should be no more than 5 psi, and I have no clue what those little things are on your pic, I imagine some kind of vaccum solenoid or something for the carb... You are running a stock Hitachi 2bbl carb, correct?

 

-Bill

  • Author

Well, that train got derailed. Checked the return line and it is clear all the way.

  • Author

This has been an interesting day. Thought I fixed the problem, only to get proven wrong. To get home I plugged all the lines to the canister and now she runs great. Tinkering with the throttle adjuster got the idle back down to around 1.5K

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Returning to this thread to post the actual problem.

 

Unbeknown to me, the return line from the canister is gravity fed and since my tank modification put the tank above the canister, it backed up and overflowed.

 

Unfortunately I may not be able to correct that with the current set up. So now I will need to bite the bullet and drop the original tank to see if I can patch it up.

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