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Yukon Roads Killed my Struts?! Or did I...


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So, on the way up to alaska I hit some big frost-heave bumps, and all was fine for a while with my 195/70/14 tires (up from 185/70/14, but plenty of clearance when installed), until that last one where I started smelling burning rubber.

 

I think the spring cups "flexed", or bent a little right at the lowest part, as I can see it sort of bubbled down along the shock...maybe because I had 2" lifter spacers in them (removed), causing extra tension and force? So, what didn't I do wrong here...

 

Wondering, do/can I replace the cups, or struts, or just get friggin smaller tires? They're "bent" now (strut cups), but will they keep bending? For now I just rotated a tire that has wear on that edge so it doesn't actually touch the strut anymore.

 

I really liked my 2" lift up front, and the bigger tires...maybe I should just avoid the Yukon.

 

cheers

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Sounds like you bottomed out the springs. I think you need a 4x4 transmission, transfer case, and front and rear solid axle conversion with a 6 inch suspension lift and 30x9.5x15 tires. :lol:

 

Just kidding, get some new struts. Yes, once they have been bent, they are softened, and will continue to bend.

What year and model is this?

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With 14" rims and tires, I'd say it's a non-outback legacy or impreza.

 

With your spacers stuffed in, the spring compressed until it was in coil bind and became a solid column. That then tried to crush the spring seat down off the strut.

 

Now, the nice thing is that late 90's legacy outback struts will fit with minimal work, give you about 2.5" of lift, and give you all that lift between the spring seat and the knuckle, so you can fit bigger tires and not have them rub.

 

If you order a set of struts (or grab them out of a junkyard) for a 98 legacy outback, the front ones will bolt in. The rear ones will either need the holes where they bolt to the body hogged out, or swap the strut cap from yours onto the outback strut. You may need to make an additional washer that fits down into the strut cap between it and the nut for the strut because they changed the length of the strut non-threaded portion and it won't tighten without it.

 

It's the right way to lift the car, it doesn't alter the handling, and it gives you more space for bigger tires.

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