MRduke

Could someone name this bent piece, to help in requesting said part over the phone or what have you: I'm probably just gonna buy it and hope that that's the only thing wrong in the rear, aside from the hatch glass being gone of course. thanks!!!

Are those bolts visible in the pics? It would be great to know what I'm getting into to make it easier...and any tips? Just rage it and do battle?

So, you never replaced that bent arm? My tire is pretty askance, so I'm guessing it'd need to be replaced. Anyone have any tricks for this one? ALSO, I think the half shaft is fine! I would try to leave it in there and just replace the bent piece.

Here's a pic of the area in question It looks like that one support beam is bent. ANd here is a shot of the same knuckle but of the sway bar and other parts. I'm wondering how likely it might be that any of these parts need replacement. Perhaps someone knows if that one bent piece in the first photo is made as a "fail-safe", in that it bends before anything else, and takes all the force...?? And here's a picture of the other side, for comparison. This side should be fine by my view, and no impact in the snowbank smoosh.

I know, I have to find out if the HG's have been replaced, but otherwise it needs, because it rammed a snowbank last winter: -New rear hatch glass -rear axle (I'm guessing just one side...wait, are they half shafts like the front? Pardon my ignorance) General impressions? Also, I know, more info is needed, gonna look at it soon...but, questions in the meantime are: Should I expect that the...uh, drive train?... may be damaged if the axle's toast? I've replace plenty of front cv axles on older legacys and loyales, but is a rear Outback axle do-able and/or similar? Snow's gonna fly soon...

Busted on the Fram filter!!! I knew right after I put up that pic that I would get called out...didnt read about Frams here til after I did my first oil change on the gal. Though, it had that drip with the old filter too, non Fram but cheap still. Glad my purge solenoid is working! Woo...hoo? The only CL codes I have are 35 (I've read to ignore) and 14 (I've cleaned and jiggled the pronged connector at the injector, but I don't think its cleared). Just put a nice sticker over the light for now; 28-30mpg...once ina while I peel back a corner to see if its still on. Yep. Thanks for the insight Miles! And also for your online guides and videos! Shuffled in a ton of confidence for this little job. ...just hoping that 3ft pipe did the job on the crank bolt...he, he...

Ha! MAybe there's an extra tundra charge... Whelp, I went ahead and put in a new h2o pump, and crossed my fingers (things DID look great under there, no weeping seals (obvious at least)) that the job done 10k ago will be good for now (oil pump seals, crank seal, t-belt "kit"). We'll see how my 'new' pump holds up. 1/4 mile and no trouble so far! And the oil drippin on the muffler; I thiiiink it was coming from the oil pan! The screws, all of them, easily turned from 1/2 to 2 rotations! They were so gingerly torqued way back when that it started leaking (my theory), so we'll see if that stifles the smoke. A long phillips got to the screws under the cross-bar...with a little angle-ing. What was this I read about having to jack the car up...? Still red fluid in my tranny, smells like trans syn grease, not atf. But fuh-get that guy at oreillys anyway. OH! And now without TB covers, she a look-a sooo-a sexy-a!!! Fun to watch them go round and round...

I had a 92 legacy with a bad bearing, and instead of replacing I got a good knuckle from the j yard and just swapped em out. Worked great. Can I do this on my 92 loyale? Would that be almost as much work as doing the bearing? Anyone done this?

Maybe I'm crazy, but after I did a water pump only job, this little spot started dripping just a little more than before. The filters on tight, I dont think its the pressure unit there...can't really trace a lick of it....?! And then this little box on top...sorry, my hunt for what it is has been poor; really I just want to figure out why it ticks/clicks with the engine ON (not started), at 1-2sec intervals...something wrong with it? (Part with tube into it and black cylinder stickin out) Part of the TOD prefunk party?

Guy at Oreilly's says his computer tells him that ATF is supposed to be in the trans. Guess its fine... Gonna rip the timing covers off (maybe leave the back one...?) and inspect the o-ring of that lower pipe on the h2o pump. I have a feeling the pumps good, just that ring needs replaced. Gonna do the oil pump gasket, I think, since its $5, as long as its accessable...? But the Cam seal is a $90 two-piece item from the lone carquest here in interior AK, so i have to wait...unless its gross and gushing, then i spose I'll have to get at it.

Rad! Those covers are coming off... Pcv valve will be replaced, as I do consider myself one lucky guy. But, I will be getting a tb kit along with the water pump, so I can replace any seals that I see as leaky...usual suspects? So, it is a manual, and it must be aftermarket fluid in the tranny because it is red. It does smell strong like trans oil, maybe synthetic. Sorr for the inaccurate word choice: there is a bolt on the lower portion of the tranny that I saw a weep coming from, and I was able to give a half turn with pliers... Questions now are: is aftermrkt red grease bad news? Can I replace the water pump but not the belts, if they look good and the seals aren't wrecked?

Thanks MilesFox! You sir are on the ball... Dang, all that stuff (TB, h20 pump, seals etc.) just got done like 10k ago. I suppose if I do the pump I might as well do the Tbelt and...Which seals would I do? Ahhh, I know how to use the search button... What are the dangers of having the covers off from now on? Debris? Fluids? How likely would a rock fly up in there, snapping the belt? I'm into the idea, as the life of the car may not exceed the weighted risks. The valve covers definitely aren't leaking. They seem to be the most visible culprit, and they look clean and dry. It seems pretty central, like something up above the center part of the crossbar. Maybe the back screws of the pan aren't tightened enough? I just gotta dig around. Oh, and does anyone know where to find torque info for the bolts on the manual trans block? I've been VERY slowly leaking red tranny fluid and i found the/a bolt where its dribbling from.

This here manual non-turbo seeeeeeems to have some coolant (ONE drop!) hanging out near the head gasket area. I have no oil in coolant or vice-versa. There is a tad around the lower tb cover where the h2o pump is, so I think I at least have some weepage and should replace the pump soon (though, no coolant loss really). WOndering if anyone knows of a potential "further-up" source that may have trickled coolant down to the head area...? Having a hard time tracing, fearing it might be coming from the HG itself... And on another point, it recently started dripping more oil onto the exhaust after a bit of driving...before it was a couple drops and I could smell it and maybe see a bit of smoke, but recently its seems like 3x's as much, and there's a small plume of smoke...this only happened when I let the oil get low because I was going to change it soon, which I have done. Has anyone experienced more leakage/drip-and-burn-smoke when letting the oil level get low? Weird, or just more of a leak than before...I'll be driving 2 hours tomorrow, and then I'll see where the drip/smoke level is. Thanks!

Okay! No mayo under the oil cap since wiping it off; its been sever hundred miles Also, coolant hasn't gone anywhere, so I think HGs aren't an issue...for now. The leak onto the exhaust? Think I'll live with it for now. Other than that, there's hardly ever a drop on the ground after a whole day parked. Still burns about a quart per 1000 miles... And the red stuff is from the Tranny! The manual trans oil is red...would this be some kind of synthetic special oil? Its bright red, and that's whats leaked underneath. The level on the dipstick is fine. Haven't found a source for the leakage...any usual suspects? Still waiting for the wash bay to free up where I work so I can rinse her down for free and trace leaks. Thanks again people!