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Few questions about ej22 swap


corvette6698512
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There are basically two approaches. depending on where you want to make the connections. If you want to avoid taking hte dash out, you can make all the connections in the engine bay via the existing enigne wiring.

 

--Tach wire from ECU can be connected to the yellow wire that used to run from dash to distributor.

 

--Temp wire can be found in the original engine harness. *a 270 ohm resistor wired to ground in parallel to the sender will correct the range*

 

--Oil pressure wre also can be found in that harness. *The wire can be hooked to the EJ dummy light sender....gauge will read "zero" while driving and peg to 90 psi if the "NO OIL" light would be on in EJ setup*

 

Or you can locate the wires on the back of the dash and hook it up there.

 

In that case you'll want to identify the wires where they go into the back of the cluster.

 

either way you will need to reference FSM diagrahms for respective connector to determine wire colors and pins.

 

But it shoulds like you've got a good start.

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Ok, so I tested the tach wire I found with a tach I had. Its the right one, so I know thats good. I found the yellow wire that went into the cabin of the car on a big yellow plug. There was 7 pins on the connector. One was yellow, one was red, one was black, blue and then a few yellow and red ones. None of them are unplugged and thats the only thing with a solid yellow wire. I plugged in the tach wire to the yellow one and nothing. Then tried hooking up power and ground to the red and black wires along with the yellow one and still nothing. What am I doing wrong? Thanks

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OK...let's try again.

 

You know where the original engine harness plugs are? And where the Original coil was mounted? Right behind the battery?

 

That is the area and the connectors I am talking about.

 

you need to search around adn get a good diagrahm and I.D. the wires.

 

Hooking random power and grounds up is NOT going to help anything.

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Well, what did you do? If it was working before you went out there, and now it's not, just undo anything you did while trying to figure out your tach. If you can't remember, then you need to figure out how to diagnose things properly :rolleyes: One thing at a time man! That way it's easy to figure out why things don't work if they break!

 

Let us know what you did before it stopped working, and we might be able to help you more :)

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I don't know of anything specific that I can tell you since I don't have a swap, but I can tell you this much. Most inputs on any type of circuit will have a limit of the amount of voltage that it can take. So if you connected the wire (I take it it's probably coming off the negative side of the coil?) to the tach input on the ECU, it's possible that you fried the ECU. The coil puts out lots of power, especially if it's just right off the coil AND the input circuit isn't designed for that power, so that *could* have fried something in the ECU. I would tend to lean that way, since it worked before you started messing with it, and now it doesn't... I would also recommend NOT randomly hooking up wires to see what will happen without doing any testing first. Atleast test the wire with a DMM to see what type of signal it's putting out before you willy nilly hook up wires to the ECU. That's the easiest way to create magic smoke from electronic devices.

 

Don't know if that helps you or not, but might give you an idea of what you are up against at this point...

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Also, I would check all your fusible links and fuses. Something could have blown while you were out playing with it. Also check your grounds as well.

 

If this is the car you got from scott, that wiring was a mess, so you might have accidentally unpluged/loosened some wires in the engine bay as well, so maybe just go out and go over the area where you were working and see if something obvious stands out or that is loose? Sometimes we miss the simple things to try...

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Most inputs on any type of circuit will have a limit of the amount of voltage that it can take. So if you connected the wire (I take it it's probably coming off the negative side of the coil?) to the tach input on the ECU, it's possible that you fried the ECU. The coil puts out lots of power, especially if it's just right off the coil AND the input circuit isn't designed for that power, so that *could* have fried something in the ECU.

 

I don't think he fried anything. He isn't hooking the tach siganl from the EJ ECU to the old coil.....just to the wire that went to it.

 

Corvette, I think you need to download a good FSM scan.

 

Locate the excact wires needed.

 

the rest of you're issues sound power supply related.....(common power is the only thing ALL 4 injectors share)

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I don't think he fried anything. He isn't hooking the tach siganl from the EJ ECU to the old coil.....just to the wire that went to it.

 

Corvette, I think you need to download a good FSM scan.

 

Locate the excact wires needed.

 

the rest of you're issues sound power supply related.....(common power is the only thing ALL 4 injectors share)

 

My point wasn't whether or not he fried something, it was to just be really careful with these old electronics, and that you can fry stuff very easily :) That's all. Like I said I know nothing about the EJ stuff, but I do know electronics... So I will now shutup and learn something that might help when I go down this road :lol:

 

Good luck fixing it man!

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I know it wasnt smart to just hook up wires without a diagram but from my previous automobile knowledge, the tach wire is usually hooked up to the negative on the coil and I was told it was yellow. It was not hooked up to the coil at all. I am leaning towards a ground or plug issue here as it happend to all the injectors at one time. Where can I get this FMS scan, I have searched to no avail. Thanks for the help it IS greatly appreciated. I really like this car and would like to drive it again. Thanks again guys(and gals)!

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Also, I would check all your fusible links and fuses. Something could have blown while you were out playing with it. Also check your grounds as well.

 

If this is the car you got from scott, that wiring was a mess, so you might have accidentally unpluged/loosened some wires in the engine bay as well, so maybe just go out and go over the area where you were working and see if something obvious stands out or that is loose? Sometimes we miss the simple things to try...

 

I did all of these. I guess it does not hurt to double check everything though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Power for the injectors should come from the ignitin relay, not from the ECU.

 

The ECU simply controls the ground side of the circuit for firing.

 

Locate the wire for the CEL out of the ECU, and hook it to your CEL in the dash. (or power a lightbulb and hook ground side to CEL wire of ECU)

 

The CEL should then light whenever the ECU is energized, telling you that it is functioning.

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When you switch the ignition on, you should hear the fuel pump priming. If you connect both green connectors and switch ignition on, you should hear it priming all the time, and also the radiator fans (when you use the ECU to control them instead of the original EA thermoswitch).

 

If not, your ECU probably is not getting any power, and that's where you should start: ground, power (continuous power and power when the ignition is switched on) etcetera.

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I figured it out. Had a cut wire the whole time. She runs perfect now. I was excited to get it running again so I beat on it a little and took video. I did some exhaust work today too(after the video) and now it sounds like a wrx without a turbo haha. Heres a video with a very small restricting muffler.

 

I am also curious if there is an adjustment for idle. It idles at 1900 rpm and I would prefer it to be correct. I have read maybe the IAC is dirty or something. 1900 seems way excessive to me and its too loud at idle.

Edited by corvette6698512
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Sweet.

 

Glad it was something simple.

 

So, here is my thoughts about the high Idle. Check that there is power on the yellow wire that goes to the IAC valve (center pin)

 

IIRC, that wire is supplied with power from the same source as the injectors and alot of other stuff. If you had cut a wire and had no power to the injectors, perhaps you still don't have power to the IAC motor.

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  • 1 month later...

Only thing left I have to do is temp gauge and oil light. I have a 270 ohm resistor, but dont know which wire is the correct one for the gauge. I have searched the internet and I couldnt find a diagram that tells what wire does what for a '92 loyale. Also, what kind of struts can I use for this thing? It needs new ones pretty bad, and im wondering if theres some struts other people prefer over just stock ones. Thanks

Edited by corvette6698512
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