I know I will catch hell for this. Have the engine, tranny is the only style that will work with the project I'm doing. I figure I'll need the adapter, not sure what else. any help would be great. Thanks

 

Brian

no go , the adapter will make it 1" off in length

not possible at all?

 

Brian

When going the other direction (EJ engine to EA tranny) they add a 12mm (or 1/2") spacer between the two. What it sounds like you want to do would require removing that much material (12mm or 1/2") from the spacing between the engine block and the tranny body... it would have to be cut from the bellhousing sections. If this is not done, then the input shaft won't engage the clutch and the pilot bearing.

 

I imagine a possible (but sounds dangerous and bad engineering) way would be to add a 12mm spacer between the crank flange and the flywheel. This sounds so bad that I hesitate to mention it, but figure it might show how hard it would be to try something like this. (I think that this would also require some clutch fork reengineering)

Hypothetically, if I can manage the 12mm issue would there be other issues with flywheel starter interface and throwout bearing pressure plate interface.

 

Brian

Hypothetically, if I can manage the 12mm issue would there be other issues with flywheel starter interface and throwout bearing pressure plate interface.

 

Brian

Flywheel/starter depends on how you do it: Starter is relative to the tranny housing, and flywheel teeth its relative to the engine's crank flange (and, indirectly, the engine case).

 

Can't remember offhand which side the clutch fork goes through.

How bout this. Stock flywheel in approx. 15mm thick at the mounting flange. Get another and cut the center section out, use this as a shim between the flywheel and crank, use a old throwout bearing as a locater between the shim and flywheel. if 15mm is too much than a 3mm aluminum shim can be cut to go betwen tne engine and intermediate bell housing. This should put the flywheel in the proper location.

Now, will the newer starter interface with the flywheel, ie. same diameter, same tooth count? Any idea about what throwout bearing would work?

 

Brian

Impreza flywheel is larger diameter then EA82 , you will need the imp fly to engage the starter

the "spacer" mentioned earlier is for the opposite swap of what you're doing, spacers are easy so that swap is easy - but you're going the opposite way so you'll need to trim that much rather than "add" to gain the proper clearance.

 

so - cut your bellhousing back that same difference and start from there, is what he's telling you (i think).

If I understand this, I need to move the flywheel 12mm closer to the transmission. I can cut the bellhousing, or move the flywheel out the same distance, therefore accomplishing the same thing. Now can I "slot" the holes in the impreza flywheel the way the ea82 flywheel is slotted for ej engines and bolt that to the ea82 crank. If I can, then I will have no issues with the interface of starter and throwout bearing.

 

Brian

Edited November 15, 201015 yr by mutantfab

If I understand this, I need to move the flywheel 12mm closer to the transmission. I can cut the bellhousing, or move the flywheel out the same distance, therefore accomplishing the same thing.

copy that, thanks for clarifying that, that makes sense.

 

i can't recall the specifics but folks have installed EA guts into EJ trans cases and/or the other way around - seems unlikely but would it be worth considering swapping the input shaft and front diff from an EA into the EJ trans?

Edited November 15, 201015 yr by grossgary

If I understand this, I need to move the flywheel 12mm closer to the transmission. I can cut the bellhousing, or move the flywheel out the same distance, therefore accomplishing the same thing. Now can I "slot" the holes in the impreza flywheel the way the ea82 flywheel is slotted for ej engines and bolt that to the ea82 crank. If I can, then I will have no issues with the interface of starter and throwout bearing.

 

Brian

 

I can redrill your "EJ" flywheel to bolt to to EA82.

Scott, How much to supply a useable drilled flywheel? Also this engine is tbi, I thought there was still a crank position sensor at the flywheel but I can't find anything. I assume the ecm is reading from the distributor. Any comments? Grossgary, I may look into that.

 

Brian

I assume the ecm is reading from the distributor.

you are correct - the ECU uses the CAS (crank angle sensor) in the distributor.

 

so you have the SPFI version of the EA82.

 

numbchux (username) has attempted some "conversions" of this sort, he should know or his threads should prove helpful.

The 12mm difference in depth between the EA and EJ setups is what allows space for the adapter plate. With no adapter plate sandwiched in, you would have to put a 12mm spacer between the flywheel and crank. But with the adapter plate in there that you need to bolt the 2 together, you will need to put a 24mm thick spacer between the crank and the flywheel.

 

A 1" spacer between the flywheel and crank is getting excessive. Then you have to find long bolts with the fine pitch thread and short heads to fit under the clutch disk.

 

I'd look into swapping whatever EJ guts into the EA case.

 

Or switching to an EJ18 if the displacement is a requirement, EJ22 or 25 if it's not.

 

Just took a look at the gears website. If you're spending $1500 on gears and another $175 on a locking collar, why use an EA82? You need an AWD EJ 5spd to put the pinion shaft and locking collar in, and you could probably pick up an early 90's legacy or impreza for $2-400. That would give you a much better engine and the right transmission for the reverse pinion set to fit into. Spending that much money and effort making it fit for such a small gain (90hp instead of 63) isn't worth it in my opinion.

Edited November 19, 201015 yr by WoodsWagon

Scott, How much to supply a useable drilled flywheel? Also this engine is tbi, I thought there was still a crank position sensor at the flywheel but I can't find anything. I assume the ecm is reading from the distributor. Any comments? Grossgary, I may look into that.

 

Brian

 

 

$100 to redrill a EJ flywheel you provide

The 12mm difference in depth between the EA and EJ setups is what allows space for the adapter plate. With no adapter plate sandwiched in, you would have to put a 12mm spacer between the flywheel and crank. But with the adapter plate in there that you need to bolt the 2 together, you will need to put a 24mm thick spacer between the crank and the flywheel.

 

A 1" spacer between the flywheel and crank is getting excessive. Then you have to find long bolts with the fine pitch thread and short heads to fit under the clutch disk.

 

I'd look into swapping whatever EJ guts into the EA case.

 

Or switching to an EJ18 if the displacement is a requirement, EJ22 or 25 if it's not.

 

Just took a look at the gears website. If you're spending $1500 on gears and another $175 on a locking collar, why use an EA82? You need an AWD EJ 5spd to put the pinion shaft and locking collar in, and you could probably pick up an early 90's legacy or impreza for $2-400. That would give you a much better engine and the right transmission for the reverse pinion set to fit into. Spending that much money and effort making it fit for such a small gain (90hp instead of 63) isn't worth it in my opinion.

 

91 Gloyale

 

You have some very good points. The reason I'm going this route is a the simplicity of the spfi, b I can double up on every fi part there is to this engine and put it in a 50 cal. ammo can to take on the trail.

c I could be wrong on this but I believe the ea 82 is lighter, smaller, and doesn't have the sump issues like the ej. also doesn't hang as low.

d Have a good running ea 82.

e I believe the bellhousing can be slotted for the upper bolts to be welded so I shouldn't need the adapter. Just not sure on dowel pins lining up. or if that can be modified.

f The ea 82 flywheel can easily be machined for the 12mm spacer. then use a ej flywheel to interface with the tranny.

g As far as swapping tranny internals, I'm not real familiar with what interchanges. So I would rather just work with what I have.

h I won't be using the locking collar. This tranny if all goes well will be 4wd and will get a actual low range transfer case bolted to it in place of the center diff. This will give a 2.72 to 1 low range after the tranny. Not before it like the dr.

i Finally since I suffer from a.d.d. and a lack of self control in regards to the skinny pedal I would rather not have a huge amount of torque to rip apart my new creation. As time progresses and this prototype is refined, I can then look into bigger and more powerful engines. Since I will be working with a ej tranny I can bolt anything to it down the road.

 

I hope this clears up my twisted way of thinking.

 

Brian

Also, Ring and pinion can be made to any ratio. I'm shooting for a 4.88 to match my front diff. Should have a good low range for offroad.

 

Brian