Greetings fellow Subee owners!

 

I've been lurking for the past few weeks after discovering this board and I've been pouring over the old posts. Lots of great info to be had. I bought a 98 Legacy Brighton in Jan. of 03 and I'm real happy with it. It has the 2.2 and 5 sp. trans. Currently it has 121k km. on the clock(I'm in Canada) and I'm going to get the timing belt replaced along with a valve adjustment and whatever seals while they're in there. Any suggestions as to anything else while they're in there?

 

The only problems that I have at the moment are the fuel door doesn't open when you pull the remote lever. I stick my keys in the gap between the fuel door and the body, then either get someone else to pull the lever or walk around myself and do it. I've looked for an adjustment but I haven't found anything. Has anyone else experienced this minor but annoying problem?

 

The other issue I have is with the distributor module. I get corrosion/oxidation between the lead for the #1 plug wire and the distributor. It only happens on the #1, none of the others are affected by this. When I bought the car I changed the plugs( the PO had installed Champions) to NGK's and installed NGK plug wires. The boot on the OEM #1 plug wire had disintegrated and the engine had a noticable miss after the plug change, thus the plug wire replacement. The engine runs smooth now, but the corrosion seems to build up every 3-4 months and I notice a slight miss so I clean it with emory cloth and the engine the miss disappears. I've tried dielectric grease with no noticable improvements. Any ideas?

 

TIA. Cheers, Greg.

hi, seems like you've got the right things covered with the timing belt change. You could also do oil and water pump at the same time but i think you should save that till 200,000kms. Never done the "valve adjustment" on any of my cars so i'm not sure if that is neccessary. Just timing belt, tensioner and seals seems right.

 

Your fuel door issue seems to be the spring on the door hinge has come loose or is non-existant. Either that or something is slightly out of place in there causing some binding/rubbing.

 

In regards to the corroded terminal on the "coil pack" i'd try sealing the plug wire to the terminal with something waterproof, either a little silicone on the outside or tape of some sort. I've never seen them rust like that before so it may need to be replaced sometime. I dunno if you can replace just the one terminal contact but the entire coil pack can be pricey unless you get one in a yard for cheap.

 

Good luck, and nice to see another canuck on the boards:D Where exactly are you located?

Nuwan,

 

Thanks for the reply. My (Haynes) manual recommends the valve check. I've never had an to make an adjustment on any of my other vehicles either.

 

The corrosion on the coil pack is something I'll inquire about when I take the car in for the timing belt. I coated the terminal with dielectric grease which is supposed to guard against oxidation, but the deposits continue.

 

I'm located over on the left coast, between Vancouver and Whistler. Thanks for the welcome! Cheers, Greg.