Nuwan

just recieved my shirts, great looking stuff... thanks!

if you have the warning signs that they are going to go soon, and it probably will it makes sense to do them in advance and prevent further damaging the motor or warping the heads my $0.02 good luck:)

they are 15% stiffer over stock.... you probably got really used to the quishy ride your car had before the replacement see what your passengers tell you about the ride

everyone i know says "t-yen", but we're canadian so it probably would be different anyways:drunk:

I did the grounding mod last year on my legacy turbo. I didn't think me idle was at all rough before but it smoothed it out even more so, i also noticed a bit flatter torque curve probably due to better spark.

non-functional except on overseas turbo models, but great if you do your own swap;)

try cleaning it first. My diagnosis is that you aren't driving the car hard enough:D I had that CEL on for the longest time until I did 2.5 hours of non-stop lapping, and its disappeared for the last 2 years. Give'er and it works wonders for your scooby:D

shipping US spec motors to foreign countries because they are sought after? got to go, there's a pig flying by my window:D

has the same issue in my '91 legacy, the problem eventually turned up as a bad 02 sensor. The problem worsened over time until the engine stalled at one point, finally producing a CEL which revealed an 02 sensor problem. Changed the sensor and things are as good as new. so you may want to look into the 02 sensor as well, and check the condition of your spark plugs and make sure they are correctly gapped, good luck:)

should find it here

If you meant electronic valve controller this is an electronic boost controller that has been installed on your car aftermarket. I'm assuming the display (on one of its many possible settings) will display boost (either psi or bar), the knob would adjust the boost level but you may have to hit some of those buttons to change it. I'd be careful with the controller since you don't really know how much boost you'd be running until you figure it out. If you can't get the display to show boost maybe you should pick up a boost gauge as well. The turbo uses oil from the engine and coolant to lubricate its bearings and cool itself. During operation a turbo can spin upwards of 80,000rpm and it doesn't stop once you turn off your car, it will gradually slow down. If you turn the engine off oil stops getting pumped as well as coolant. Convection currents allow cool coolant to cool the turbo long after shutting the car down but the oil doesn't really do the same. This isn't a problem during light normal driving but if you were to come off the highway or take a break after doing a few laps at a track you'd want to allow the car to cool down on it's own by letting the engine idle for a few minutes (ie: providing fresh oil and coolant to the turbo). Use a short "run down time" on the turbo timer when your taking it easy driving, and when you push the car hard add a minute or so as you see fit. It also helps to drive a little slower for the last couple of minutes before parking the car but isn't neccessary now that you have a turbo timer. Hope that helps, sounds like you have got yourself quite the nice car, any pics available? take care

whoops, i mixed things up by accident, thanks for catching that vrg3:)

hi, seems like you've got the right things covered with the timing belt change. You could also do oil and water pump at the same time but i think you should save that till 200,000kms. Never done the "valve adjustment" on any of my cars so i'm not sure if that is neccessary. Just timing belt, tensioner and seals seems right. Your fuel door issue seems to be the spring on the door hinge has come loose or is non-existant. Either that or something is slightly out of place in there causing some binding/rubbing. In regards to the corroded terminal on the "coil pack" i'd try sealing the plug wire to the terminal with something waterproof, either a little silicone on the outside or tape of some sort. I've never seen them rust like that before so it may need to be replaced sometime. I dunno if you can replace just the one terminal contact but the entire coil pack can be pricey unless you get one in a yard for cheap. Good luck, and nice to see another canuck on the boards:D Where exactly are you located?

that's pretty wierd, due to the inconsistency of the problem i'd say it was electrical and probably your temp sensor. However if you are getting cold air through the vents when set on hot on occasion i'd say you have air trapped inside the system somewhere. Also i'd check your thermostat and rad cap while your in there.

I wouldn't worry about anything +/- 5mm but beyond that the bearings WILL see increased wear due to an offset load. Our cars already have picky bearings so try keeping an offset as cloe to stock as possible.

no prob:) You should be able to get the wheel spacers from the same place you are getting your rims, just ask them about the spacers.

From the diagram you can see that "offset" is the distance from the centerline of the rim to the hub mating surface at the center of the rim. A higher offset moves the rim towards the car (further into the wheels well), and a lower offset moves the rim away from the car. If you have rubbing issues on the inner side of the tire then you'll need a lower offset rim or wheel spacers. hope that helps:D edit: mixed up stuff earlier, thanks vrg3

Does your car have an alarm or remote car starter on it? maybe from a previous owner?

I don't think that really should be happening, it is obviously a problem with the pads the dealer is using. The backing plate stamping must be slightly undersized from what the specs should be at , allowing it to move around more than it should. I'd suggest going to aftermarket pads than the dealership stuff. Cheaper and better performance too.

I had a rally on the weekend and my car was suffering from horrible hesitation the night prior to the event. Anywhere between 3000 and 5500 rpm at beyond 50% throttle the car would buck and alternate between zero and full power. I re-gapped the plugs to a smaller gap and it did the trick, i think the car was running better than ever after. I made the gap 0.004" smaller, and i think the hesitation was due to the boost blowing out the spark. Currently using 0.040" gap, what does everyone else use? BTW: this is on a 92 legacy turbo running 15psi:D

be weary of the spring rate differences, for any idea of how they may act on your car, compare your vehicle's weight to the wrx, and also consider weight distribution front to rear, most likely the wrx is a bit heavier (i know the turbo system weighs about an extra 200lbs on the front of the car at least)

getting a wrx hood is your best best... the water/snow thing shouldn't be a problem, many of my friends have open scoops with in i/c an haven't had a single problem many guys that change from TMIC to FMIC (top mount intercooler to front mount) will be looking for a non-scoop hood to swap with, just trade and pay a bit of cash for the difference, if you're lucky you'll find such a person, try http://www.nasioc.com good luck

you mean you don't want all of them? good luck!

i know someone who purchased a 94 turbo wagon last summer, all original motor/tranny/turbo and he got it with 426,000kms on it, last i heard it had 438,000 and is still going strong. i guess that should answer your question

all motors are 96,000kms, however apparently the newer phase II motors are higher (160,000) but i wouldn't chance it