Loyale93v Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 1993 Loyale EA82 TBI 95,000 miles- My sisters car, Seems its stalling just after start up during the warm up faze. I have yet to witness it happen. What i do know is: Start er up and she idles at 2000 rpm initially, then gradually tappers off to just under 1000 rpm to about 850 rpm- normally. Something may need adjusting, just what I don't know. Any one have any input on this? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Look for corrosion at the CTS connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale93v Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Naru: Do you mean the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor)? Where is that located...on the block? Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Yes that's the Coolant Temp Sensor. It is located right beside/sort of under the thermostat housing. It probably has a light green electrical connector that has two wires. Get a multi meter and check the sensor for resistance. I am not sure of the resistance value but it is low. If you don't get a resistance value then the the sensor is shot (the wires tend to break right at the base but you can't tell unless you peel the rubber back). Also while you are there with your MM, check the feed for power with the car idling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale93v Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 I took a close look at it last night. I noticed it was running a little rougher than normal. Turns out it was a vacuum leak at the Intake...passenger side. A pretty big one at that...passenger side intake gasket. I sprayed a little carb clean where I thought the sound was coming from and wallah...it smoothed right out. Any ways ...it doesn't look like to hard of a job to do. It appears as though the throttle body is part of the intake and can be removed all together. Any body ever done intake gaskets on these motors before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Yes. 6 bolts - Three per side, the 17mm egr pipe at the rear of the intake and the upper rad hose need to come off. (Drain your coolant first) Be gentle with the bolts, they tend to get rusty. I always clean them up before I put them back in. Use ONLY the Subaru intake gaskets for their replacement. Part number: 14035AA150 (no turbo I assume). They are only about 10 bucks or so from the dealer for a set and they are far better than the aftermarket gaskets. When torquing the bolts back down, don't 'wang' them on. They don't need a lot of torque. I can't remember the exact value but its not more than 15 ft/lbs or so. Haynes manual or someone here will know the exact value. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale93v Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 I'll look up the torque spec's on ALLDATA. Correct, not a Turbo. Drain the coolant, check. -Is there a bleeding procedure to eliminate air pockets when re-filling the Antifreeze/Coolant? I know the newer Subaru's have a bleeder valve on top of the Radiator. I picked up a set of gaskets from my local Dealer today. $9 or $10.00 I believe it was. It should run a lot smoother once the new gasket is in place. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale93v Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 REMOVED & REPLACED - Intake manifold gaskets. Took about 90 minutes. Runs smooth now. All though it still has a small skip at idle. Its been about 30k since I last replaced the Plugs & Wires. I checked the Ignition timing with a timing light; It reads 20 degrees BTDC. Maybe this engine was just born to skip a little? ju no say pa? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Yes, the burp mauever - get your front end up high - park on a hill, or crank your floor jack then squeeze the rad hoses until all of the air 'seems' to be out - like when you squish the hose, it no longer ingests fluid, it just kind of ebs and flows, then fill it up to the top and start the car with the rad cap off. With the nose of the car up high, it should be the highest point in the system, higher than the thermostat housing, the air in the lines will naturally flow towards the top. Keep the car running until it reaches temperature so the thermostat opens up, possibly ingesting more fluid. If your system is fairly full already you won't notice much except for a couple of burps/bubbles along the way. A few bubbles here and there is ok, but lots of bubbles isn't good. Fill the expansion tank and take it for a good drive. Signs of air in the system: Heater might not work and gurgling behind the dash. If those symptoms reappear, then burp your child again. The idle/skip does sound timing related. Are your tensioners on snug? I ran sloppy when I had a 'stretched' belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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