03aksuby Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 I am sorry to start yet another "my ej wont fire up after swap" thread but I am on the verge of lighting the project on fire I have the ECU Pinouts wired as Numbchux diagram suggests and yes I have read through the thousands of threads on this topic and tried all of the suggestions without any luck. I am getting fuel and I am also getting power (while cranking as well) to the coil pack, injectors, ignitor etc. yet no spark. I have switched coil packs and ignitors off of another EJ22 and still no luck. Where does the coil pack get grounded? Where it bolts to the intake manifold? Could this be the problem? Thanks Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Are you getting solid power to the ecu while cranking, at 10v+ as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drugh Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Do you have the ECU c10 wire (per numbchux writeup) from the ECU connected to the starter solenoid? Also, it cant hurt to add an extra grounding strap between the block and the passenger side firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 I had this same issue with my first EJ swap IIRC there are 3 wires coming from the Coil pack Red,Blue,Yellow the yellow one needs power when the key is cranking and in the on position. I just jumped a hot to it to see if the car would start and sure enough VROOOM then i just ran a wire from the key to the power wire for the coil and it worked fine. Cheers R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03aksuby Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 Are you getting solid power to the ecu while cranking' date=' at 10v+ as well?[/quote'] Yes I am getting power to the ECU Do you have the ECU c10 wire (per numbchux writeup) from the ECU connected to the starter solenoid? Also, it cant hurt to add an extra grounding strap between the block and the passenger side firewall. I have the c10 wire covered, however, i didn't run anything to the starter solenoid (EA starter solenoid I assume)… Is this needed? I had this same issue with my first EJ swap IIRC there are 3 wires coming from the Coil pack Red,Blue,Yellow the yellow one needs power when the key is cranking and in the on position. I just jumped a hot to it to see if the car would start and sure enough VROOOM then i just ran a wire from the key to the power wire for the coil and it worked fine. Cheers R. The red, blue, and yellow wires show power while cranking as well in the on position. If they are getting power while cranking would jumping it with a hot wire be any different? Thanks Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 If you are getting power to the coil you should be getting spark when you crank it unless your engine is not grounded then it wont start. you can always try a jumper wire to the yellow on the coil and crank it to see if it fires. cheers r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03aksuby Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 Okay I will add some grounds and give the jumper a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03aksuby Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 The jumper worked and it fired right up!!!!!! :banana: Just a few questions: -Where did you guys permanently run the jumper from? -What colors are the wires for the gauges (I have the two plugs that plug into the Legacy cluster do I need all of those wires?) Thanks Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I just hooked it to a power for when the key is cranking and in the on position you don't want power to it all the time or it wont shut off when you turn the key of and if left hooked up with the car off it will burn up the coil pack. I'm not to sure on the gauge wires i cut my harness to just be for the engine and left the stock bulk harness in the car. glad to hear it fired up i was super exited the first time i got mine to fire up. Cheers R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03aksuby Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Well I put the exhaust on and it was then made apparent that I am only running on two cylinders (3 & 4). I can pull the coil wires for 1 & 2 completely off of the coil pack and it does not affect how it runs. What could the problem be that is causing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 not sure on that one could be a bad coil pack if you have a spare you might swap it in and try it. Cheers R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 timing off perhaps. i am ready for pics, and if you ever get tired of this one, let me know i am ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03aksuby Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 I have tried two coil packs, two ignitors and two ECU's. I traced the wires from the ignitor to the ECU and everything is still intact? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03aksuby Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 Okay I checked all of the wires from the coil pack and from the ignitor for continuity and I found something I have a question about. There is a yellow wire (the middle of the three wires) that runs from the center of the plug that connects to the coil pack's wires to a small brown relay. The relay has a few other wires going to it (white/red and lime green red/blue). -What does the yellow wire do at this relay? -During the thinning down of the harness I cut the white/red wire from the relay, Is this bad? Here are some pics of the relay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03aksuby Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 im not sure on that one i didnt have this problem hopefully someone els will chime in with a little more knowlege. Cheers R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03aksuby Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Can anyone at least tell me what the white/red wire is off of this relay? Thanks Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 (edited) That is a 2 diode holder. Each diode has a wire in, and a wire out. they prevent backflow of current. Your IG. switched 12v should feed to the Yellow wire. In stock configuration this wire is connected to the the ALT, and also directly to the coil. Power also then flows from yellow wire, though diode to Lt.Green wire and on to signal the ECU to turn "on" It's common in stripping the harness to end up cutting the connection between the coil yellow wire and the Alt yellow wire. Make sure there is continuity to the coil wire. The other 2 wires are for the fan control. Blue/Red comes from the ECU, out though the diode, becomes the White/red wire and then goes on out to provide ground for the fan (or trigger a relay, better way). Edited June 25, 2011 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03aksuby Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) That is a 2 diode holder. Each diode has a wire in, and a wire out. they prevent backflow of current. Your IG. switched 12v should feed to the Yellow wire. In stock configuration this wire is connected to the the ALT, and also directly to the coil. Power also then flows from yellow wire, though diode to Lt.Green wire and on to signal the ECU to turn "on" It's common in stripping the harness to end up cutting the connection between the coil yellow wire and the Alt yellow wire. Make sure there is continuity to the coil wire. The other 2 wires are for the fan control. Blue/Red comes from the ECU, out though the diode, becomes the White/red wire and then goes on out to provide ground for the fan (or trigger a relay, better way). This may be a basic questions, but I thought I would check it out since everything that has been mentioned has checked out A-OK. Should the Cam and Crank angle sensors be getting power at their plugs in the engine bay?. I checked the signal [+] for both of these and they both had power; however, neither one has power at their plug in the engine bay? Also another question just to clear up confusion. The plug to the coil pack has 3 wires going to it from the ecu side of the engine bay plug (yellow, red/green (or blue), and one more. However the point is that on the coil side of the plug there is a yellow, a blue, and red wire. The two yellows don't fall into the same location on the plug. Should I be jumping the yellow wire from the ecu to the plug or the yellow wire on the coil side of the plug? Edited June 27, 2011 by 03aksuby Added Question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03aksuby Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Bumppp trying to get this running right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Hmm....... I think you have your CAM sensor and Coil pack plugs switched. Or possibly the IAC plug and the Coil plug switched. I forget excactly which but a couple of those plugs will connect to eachother but of course the car won't run like that. Seen it happen a few times before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 i could bring down my legacy and we could try to swap known good parts and you could verify wiring under the hood compared to a running ej22t, not sure if that would help. might help in the verifiying of connectors, wiring.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03aksuby Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 i could bring down my legacy and we could try to swap known good parts and you could verify wiring under the hood compared to a running ej22t, not sure if that would help. might help in the verifiying of connectors, wiring.. I had another legacy right next to it and swapped out the parts. Both cars were running before the swap. I will keep in contact with you as I could possibly need your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03aksuby Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 I have taken a step backwards! It now won't start at all! I tried running power wires to the cam and crank angle sensors and shorted them out. Is it possible that I fried something? Is there a way to check? Is there a way to test the ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 what year is the car/engine model? I can get about 9 ecu's from ej22 91-94 legacy's they are around 15 bucks each near my junkyard.... if you want to try that route... otherwise that seems expensive to me on ecu's i bet the wiring, or alternator or something is bad in a splice. don't give up for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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