Hello, was wondering if there is a thread on replacing the front struts on an 86 brat. any tips, or tricks. gonna rent a tool for (compressing) keeping the springs in place. any advice? did a search but didn't find any threads that walk you through the process. thanks

okay. found a compressing type tool at napa for 40 bucks that you use with the strut assembly on the car. i have noticed that other users state that it is faster to take the assembly off of the car to replace the strut. this doensn't seem to make sense to me when dealing with a brat, for i believe one has to disconnect the brake line in order to remove the strut assembly. so if that is the case then bleeding the brakes is added to the task if the assembly is off. or so i have read. are there any brat owners who have replaced front struts with the assembly on the car? thanks

okay. found a compressing type tool at napa for 40 bucks that you use with the strut assembly on the car. i have noticed that other users state that it is faster to take the assembly off of the car to replace the strut. this doensn't seem to make sense to me when dealing with a brat, for i believe one has to disconnect the brake line in order to remove the strut assembly. so if that is the case then bleeding the brakes is added to the task if the assembly is off. or so i have read. are there any brat owners who have replaced front struts with the assembly on the car? thanks

 

If you read further, you'll find that most of us prefer to leave the brake line untouched and just cut a little bit out of the strut's brake line mount. That way you can remove the strut without having to bleed.

 

Don't bother with the on-car type spring compressor. Those are for a different setup. You'll be fine with the kind that you use when the strut assembly is removed from the car.

 

Jacob

thanks for the info. so it sounds like it is an off the car job. i will give that a try. i am assuming that the reason for not doing it with the strut assembly on the car is due to the cramped conditions down in the wheel well. any suggestions as for a type of compression tool?

thanks for the info. so it sounds like it is an off the car job. i will give that a try. i am assuming that the reason for not doing it with the strut assembly on the car is due to the cramped conditions down in the wheel well. any suggestions as for a type of compression tool?

 

This is the type most people use:

 

http://www.customtacos.com/tech/files/spring7.jpg

 

People don't do it in the car because of the way our strut assembly is put together. Once you go through the work to take it out of the car, you'll understand what I mean.

 

Jacob

Hello, was wondering if there is a thread on replacing the front struts on an 86 brat. any tips, or tricks. gonna rent a tool for (compressing) keeping the springs in place. any advice? did a search but didn't find any threads that walk you through the process. thanks

 

Here is a quick how I did it... no.. not mechanic.... could get shot impersenating one... but got it done.

 

You want to remove the strut with spring on it.. do not remove the center bolt that keeps it all together, remove the two or three top strut mounting bolts and remove from knuckle below. Once on floor attach compression tool on spring and when spring is properly compressed the tension is off center nut, remove it.

 

Not sure if it matters but you will see color paint (under dirt) on front of springs... some say that is just a factory coding method.. no idea... they came out that position... I put them back as I found it.

 

I believe on your 86, it has 3 bolts on the upper top strut mounting bolts... other wise like my 84 Brat (2 bolts) the top section can be turned 180 out and put in wrong for car type... I recommend do one side... then do the other.

 

Use penetrating oil on 2 lower bolts on steering knuckle and remove bolts.

After removing bolts from lower knuckle use a spreader to open it up to wiggle (channel locks help to twist back and forth) strut out.

 

Regarding what else I had to undo, on my 84 Brat all I had to do was remove the single bolt on the lower control arm (14mm) and that gave me enough play to pull down and yank assembly out. I removed the brake line from the caliper (and emergency cable) rather than cut clip retainer as I didn't know any better ... and I had a helper to help bleed... (sounds simpler to cut metal loop, bend, remove hose and bend back to use clip)

 

 

Compress spring, remove top center nut, remove strut, install strut and top parts and release spring to put tension on top nut.

 

Grease the inside knuckle area and end of the strut when putting new in... you may have to put floor jack under bottom ball joint nut, jack up till studs are in the holes and just lifting car and pound down with rubber mallet from above to get it into the socket (Note bolt hole to front of car.) On mine I had to spread opening (wedge) jack up and beat down hard... real hard with mallet..... from above on center to force it the last 1/2" to get bolt in.

 

What ever you do... when you have spring compressed and putting it back together using the original "upper spring seat" assure it is not upside down... other wise after you install it and realize.... you get to take it all out and do it again... just watch how it comes apart.. it's simple, lower plate or (seat) and upper plate (seat) should capture the spring in between...my brother in law who is a mechanic laughed his rump roast off...

 

torque bolts, put tire on, install 14mm bolt (if removed) but don't tighten till weight is back on car, lower car, NOW slide under and tighten bolt on lower control arm.

 

Hope any of this helps... wasn't to bad but I used Bro/inlaws lift which was so much easier.

 

good luck..

Edited October 20, 201114 yr by Indrid cold

You guys are great. this info is very helpful. gonna try it soon.. thanks

Also pay attention to the top plate direction when you pull the strut out, you have the 2 bolt system. There is some verbiage on the top plate that tells you which way it needs to be installed. I think it goes one way for 4 wheel drive and turned 180 degrees for 2 wheel drive. I don't remember what is stamped on the top plate.