I thought I'd start a new thread for my engine swap to post progress in as well as ask questions. I picked up a 1999 Impreza Sport, manual transmission, and have pulled the engine out along with the entire bulkhead wiring harness, computer and exhaust. I chose the 1999 EJ22 for it's slight power increase over previous year, OBDII and overall reliability.

 

Before I start stripping the harness down to the essentials I need for the merger, I would like to address a few things. My main concerns are as follows.

 

The 1999 system has a fuel temperature sensor in the tank. Do I need this for the engine to run properly or can this pin on the ECM be left floating or tricked with a simple resistor? Advantages of knowing fuel temp in the tank?

 

The manual transmission version uses a speed sensor signal to the gauge cluster and to the ECM. It appears to be driven from the same place in the transmission as the speedometer cable in the 1987. How do I incorporate this sensor into the 1987 D/R transmission? The speedo gauge is not as important, as I use GPS for a speedo with the bigger tires, but it would be nice to get this to work so I can use the stock cruise control. My thoughts were to drive the cable with a servo and simple PWM circuit driven form the speed sensor signal. This isn't as important as getting the engine running properly in the 1987, though, so lets focus on getting the speed signal to the ECM.

Edited January 4, 201214 yr by kanurys

Has anyone put an EJ fuel tank into an EA82 car? would this be an option?

Don't need the tank temp sensor for the motor to run, and the speedo question should have been answered before... I think that some speedos had the reed sensor in the actually speedo itself and some didn't. I believe the "newer" ea82's had the reed sensor.

 

You will want to search and verify this info, as I have never done a swap before...

 

HTH!

So far so good. The tape and loom is off of the harness. I started a spreadsheet of pins and wire colors to painlessly strip this thing down to what I need. I'll make it available once its compete. The doccument will also include the ea82 wires to interface with, hopefully simplifying the installation.

Here is a link to the current spreadsheet. The far right column is what I need to hook up to the EA82. Feel free to suggest any changes. When this is finalized I'll package the spreadsheet with the wiring diagrams.

 

1999 EJ22 to EA82 Spreadsheet

 

 

Also, I'm selling the other parts from the shell over in the classifieds.

Guys, I have an alternator question. On the 1999 alt there is a HEAVY gauge white pair of wires (same node) which are obviously the main V+ output. There are also two wires: Yellow goes to the Main Fuse Box, I'm guessing as a reference and to power the inner coils of the alternator and ties into the battery, according to the diagram. The other one is Black w/ White strip which leads back to the dash. What does this one do?

Guys, I have an alternator question. On the 1999 alt there is a HEAVY gauge white pair of wires (same node) which are obviously the main V+ output. There are also two wires: Yellow goes to the Main Fuse Box, I'm guessing as a reference and to power the inner coils of the alternator and ties into the battery, according to the diagram. The other one is Black w/ White strip which leads back to the dash. What does this one do?

 

Black white wire grounds the "CHARGE" light on the dash when the Alt produces no power. When the Alt puts out power, the voltage on the wire goes high, so the light on the dash goes out.

 

This light IS needed to properly produce a field for the Alt.

Cool, thanks! I am pretty good at researching diagrams but could not find where this terminated for the life of me. I'll hook it up to the alternator side of the old charge light on the GL.

 

I'm going to integrate the impreza Main Fuse Box and place it behind the battery like JacksonRally did on his. Then use the impreza headlight relays for my driving lights and accessories.

Very nice, I am planning on doing this swap down the road. thanks for putting up the time to make the spreadsheet.

No problem. I figure that if I'm going to go through all the effort anyways, others might as well benefit, too.

 

Question: It's cheap, so I'm skeptical. Do you guys think its a good idea to get this pump for my project? They don't list any specs and I'd hate to be 5 hours into the wilderness when it fails. The price is attractive, though.

http://www.discountbodyparts.com/catalog/?ymmsearch=true&Ntt=1985+Subaru+GL-10+Replacement%20Fuel%20Pump+REPI314501&dbpid=froogle&dbpsubarugl-1019851989replacementrepi3145011810167fupu85sugl

I ordered an '88 XT6 Exedy clutch kit on Ebay. They called me and said that Exedy is recalling all 15009 clutches for some sort of pressure plate failure, by customer complaints.

 

What is a good quality (reliability) alternative to the OEM Exedy? Price is also a consideration. I'm not interested in a $250 clutch kit.

Things are moving along. I'm ready to do the whole swap. I think I'm going to cut the old intake hole in the inner fender larger to fit the 1999 intake air box. Has anyone had a bad time doing this?

I have a 2001 Phase II EJ22 into my 86 carbed wagon. You will throw codes for the fuel tank sensors but they won't put you into a limp mode.

 

as for your fuel pump I just used one I got from mike(i think he scored it at a JY) works fine. Your main problem is going to be your fuel lines. They aren't the right size. I have the same problem that Tex has/had where sometimes it will "bog down" feels like maybe the engine isn't getting enough fuel its still totally drivable. You could swap in some FI lines or make your own if this is "too big" of an issue for you. Its really not for me.

Thanks, Tosh.

 

I don't really want to bend hard lines. Maybe I can run a really long rubber hose for the main hose. Perhaps the EA82 SPFI fuel pump is not quite adequate flow volume, not just the line. Head pressure at the end of a long run is much lower than you might expect. We could overcome this with an over-pressure rated aftermarket pump. Just put a gauge at the pump end and the engine end of the EA line and run the stock pump. That should give you a good idea as to the loss at a given flow rate. (have someone rev it up while looking at the gauges).

 

If you don't come back with anything on that soon, I'll probably run a larger hose, but just get the engine running before I tackle that problem. Right now, I'm trying to figure out which pin on the back of the cluster is the speed sensor and which is the tach signal. I think the speed is the 4th pin on the passenger side round connector counting counter clockwise.

 

As for the tach signal, I've read a ton of threads on converting it to a usable one, but nobody has 100 % success. No one has put a scope on it to see what it looks like, either. We'd need to compare it to an EA82 signal. Then the correction should be obvious.

the problem is a soft line is going to loose you a lot of PSI, even a steel braided one isn't going to be as good as a hardline. I would sugest picking up the factory EA82T or other FI pump for cheap at the junk yard seeing how it runs for you. If its giving your issues upgrade to a larger 'performance' pump. A Walbro 255LPH pump can be had for around the same price as that "factory" pump you linked too. http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-7936323-walbro-gsl392-255lph-inline-fuel-pump.html

 

If I recall correctly its the return line thats too small. Also don't forget to upgrade your fuel soft lines lines to FI rated hoses. Especially if you are going with a bigger aftermarket pump. I'd like to go to a walbro unit in the future its just towards the end of a long list of things I want to fix/upgrade.

 

As for the tach I just used the "engine speed" signal coming from the ECU and wired it directly into the "tachometer" works fine.

 

 

Thats the only picture I have of what I wired in behind the dash. My 1986 didn't have a ECU so I just wired the water temp, vss, and tachometer directly into the dash.

That's about what I have planned on doing. We'll see about the fuel pump issue. Thanks for the picture.

You may want to swap out for a gas tank from an FI car. It will have the baffles that keep fuel from sloshing away from the pickup. If you get one from a Turbo (MPFI) car they have larger outlet lines.

 

But really, Fuel lines aren't an issue. Use a few adapters to get to the right sizes. The stock suby fuel hose is the same for carb as FI. If you have to buy any replacement hose, get FI rated but what's there already is fine.

 

There's no need to remove the dash or instrument panel to do the wiring either.

 

-Tach wire can be tapped at the Fuel pump relay, or at the coil.

 

-CEL wire tapped into the connector for the warning lights

 

-VSS, up in the far left corner of the dash, is a 2 pole "T" shaped connector, Black IIRC. It has 2 wires, Yellow/red and a Black. That is the VSS connector for dealer added cruise, works great for swaps too.

 

-IG. Switched power can also be accessed from the Fuel pump relay.

Edited June 5, 201213 yr by Gloyale

Cool, thanks. I think I'll pull the cluster anyways and make my own interface near the round connectors.

 

The other location will be helpful. I'll update the comments on my spreadsheet with these...

Things accomplished so far:

 

-ECU in GL in stock EJ location under carpet

-wiring harness installed and in loom

-brackets made to locate EJ main fuse block behind battery

-spreadsheet updated

-engine resealed, tuned up, valves adjusted

-sanded and re-sprayed the battery tray corner

 

 

All my connections are soldered and shrink tubed. I ran 4 extra control wires through the fender to actuate extra relays for future expansion.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I like the idea of using an FI car's gas tank. I could probably snag one from the same car as the pump I got at the yard.

 

As for lines, I think I'll swap the EA vent and return lines as the vent line is bigger than the return line and closer to the EJ return line size, all the way to the tank. Then at the tank I'll have to drop down to the smaller size, unless I switch tanks.

Tried dropping it in last week. The pilot bearing and trans input shaft would not play nice. I took it out and stuck the clutch alignment tool in and it was perfectly aligned. I'll try again this week... Maybe there is a little corrosion from sitting so long, or something. thoughts?

Well, there's your problem.

Edited June 29, 201213 yr by kanurys

I think I figured it out...

 

looks like a bent shaft....:-p

looks like you found the remedy :drunk:cheers

I fixed it by heating the plastic in boiling water, then aligning it and while under pressure cooling it with cold water.

 

Friday I put the EJ pitch-stopper onto the EA trans and stared at the empty engine bay.

 

I'm currently trying to get the fuel lines sorted out. I'm going to switch the return and vent lines on the EA car so it will flow better on return. I'm having trouble sourcing the correct line size. Not a big deal, but just another thing to do.

 

Also the FI pump input is like 7/16 or 5/8" and the carb pump input is 5/16" or so. I hope I don't have problems between the tank and the pump. Its looking more and more like the FI tank swap is the clean way to do it, but I just want to get it running, first.