5 speed swap update

[Recian]

I figure its time to post a one post complete how to guide on converting to a 5 speed for those of us with consistant a/t issues. So here goes

Late last night i finished my 5 speed swap in my 95 impreza. Ive been driving it all day with no hitches exept the cel will come on occasionally for the NPS if i drive it more than 15 miles at a time. So far heres what had to be done from start to finish. Note this is for an impreza. From what research i did leggy wiring is a bit more complex and the cars wheelbase is a bit longer but its the same.

 

First: acquire parts. I went with junkyard parts to save money i did the u pull it.

If you do this take pics of the car's VIN to get parts and pics of the clutch mechanism so you know where it all goes. Its kinda complex with the hill brake.

Trans, crossmember, shifter assy and rods, pedal assy, hill brake & lines, m/t starter,upper mount, speedo and clutch cable. Total cost: 125. I got this cheap since i did a 50 for all you can carry sale and carried my trans. This isnt recommended. Im a big guy and hurt myself doing it but it was worth the money i saved. With all needed parts in hand i ordered parts from subaru.

 

Subaru parts: all shifter bushings and rods. Shifter elbow and pin, shifter spring, flywheel

and pressure plate bolts brake switch (ill explain this later)and oem shift boot (this fits in your oem center console trim with no mods) total cost:180

 

I hate having to backtrack so i bought a new clutch and flywheel. F1 racing clutch kit and oem style exedy flywheel. Total cost: 225

 

Last but not least the auto trans is 2 and 11/16" shorter. Your prop shaft's short shaft will need to be extended and rebalanced. That cost me 75

 

At this point were at total cost of $600 roughly. Reallistically youll probably spend around 700 after misc parts and such.

 

Lets get to work with parts in hand. Youll need a wiring diagram too. This job can be done in a weekend if youve got parts in hand.

 

Step1

You should know how to r/i the trans. Its pretty simple. Remove everything down to bare back of the block. I recommend doing your rear main and oil separator at this time. Theyre probablg leaking if you havent done them before. Now change your shift bushings. You wont be able to once theyre in the car. Also make sure on used m/t that the dowel pins are out. I had a dowel in and fought for an hour before i realized it. Now remove your a/t shift selector. It WILL get in ur way if not removed. Cut its connector as you wont need it. Cut the key release switch wires and short them together so key will come out. Remove 6 screws. Theyll be reused for the m/t boot. Now simple put the m/t in. When you get it sitting on the pins i find it easier to have a helper turn the crank as you push the trans. And grease up the shaft too and it should slip right in. Once all that is back together now the more complex stuff. Bolt up and hook up the linkages. Make sure youve got all gears.

 

Step2 pedals

I found this easier to remove the tcm and ccm to gain access. 4 bolts hold it in and a pin holds the master cylinder to the pedal. Pop all that out. Now we get to y u need a new brake switch cuz the one you have and the used one will crumble as old plastic does. Replace it while your assy is out. While its out pop the blank out of the firewall and run your clutch cable through. Now put your pedals in. Leave this torn apart for now until youre done wiring.

 

Step3 (optional) hill brake

This isnt mandatory but its a factory option and i LOVE it. Hill brake bolts under master cyl. You need one line from master to hill brake, from hill brake to LF caliper and from hill brake to proportioning valve (on pass. Side strut tower) once all these are hooked up route its cable under the fuel rail and intake and to the clutch fork as it was on the doner car. Adjust til tight. At this point adjust your clutch cable and test it too. After all is said and done bleed the brakes not just at each caliper but at each line FIRST starting with master and working your way away from it.

 

Step4 wiring

At this point you should be mechanically sound. If you skipped step3 now install and adjust clutch cable. Now to make the car run you need to do 3 things. To make it perfect theres 5 things

You need to: remove ecm on pass floor panel.

1. Ground terminal 50 of the ecm. Look at your diagram 49 should be to tcm only. Well you now have no tcm. Cut 49 and put that terminal into 50 carefully not to damage the ecm connector. ecm now knows its a manual

2. Run wires across 11 and 12 of the inhibitor connector (i cut the inhibitor harness and plugged that into my 12 pin connector and ran wires inside) for ease you can use the clutch switch to connect that circuit or use switch to ground a relay that closes the circuit. Im going to install a relay eventually to take load off the switch. Now the car will start

3. I mentioned this b4. Cut the switch at the a/t shift selector and short them so key can come out.

4. NPS. Run one wire of the nps (on trans) to 74 at the ecm and the other to ground

5. Rev lights. Run the other switch on the trans to inhibitor connector 9 and 10 and now youve got backup lights.

 

Add all necessary fluids and enjoy. M/t awd takes 4.2 qts of gear oil.

The impreza doesnt seem to have the high idle until it learns its a m/t as is seen in other reviews. Its like my car was born to be a manual.

Edited May 20, 2012 by Recian