Ok, I have definitely ruled out alternator. Since my son is home, so is my 97 outback which has a reman by subaru alternator which was installed (under warranty-my local dealership warranties stuff like that if you have them replace it once, paid for replacement around 2000 or so). I tried the re-man that I know is in excellent condition and still same problem.

Next step, I have removed the harness from the 2.5 to try it out on the 2.2

 

The only difference I have noticed betwee them is the plug for the coil packs are different (slightly). The 2.5 plug will plug in to the 2.2 coil pack, and the pins line up, hopefully the wires do the same thing.

I'd say general ground...

 

Davebugs, you had it right in post #5

 

It turns out I was putting all of my attention on the plug in connectors and did not re-check my ground connection. I did verify that they were all connected, however the one that connects on the top of the intake was only finger tight, causing a poor ground. I discovered it when I was disconnecting everything so I could swap the harnesses. Turns out the night I was working on that particular part of the install, I got a phone message that pulled me away from working on the car. I left with it only finger tight, and did not remember to tighten it with a wrench the next evening when I started again. Now I am curious how many people will loosen that ground and see if they get that same wierd symptom.

 

Thanks again for all who helped with the troubleshoot!

 

Next time I check connections and grounds, I will put a wrench to the grounds to verify tightness.

Glad it ended well.

 

I'm an old programmer. When things don't make any sense (like your issues) it's usually something basic that's been overlooked. Works on cars too. Folks go looking for the exotic/difficult/enormous solutions first.

 

Along with customers lie. They don't mean to - but the info they give you is not the most reliable in the end most of the time. They truely believe what they are saying at the time.

 

Those 2 realizations can save a lot of head banging.

Glad to hear you got it figured out!

I took it for a test drive tonight. I was not disappointed in any way with the power of the 2.2

 

First time I have driven it in months.

 

Sound like I have a bearing going bad in the rear, I am guessing wheel bearing. It is making a roaring sound, not horrible, but noticeable.

 

Gonna start searching for how to threads on that next. If anyone knows where to find the best thread for that, let me know!

I'm one of the folks who buys a whole used "stub" rather than play with that lateral bolt and a new bearing.

 

I have found that easier here in the rust belt.

 

They run me about 100 bucks delivered to me IIR.

 

Not bad to do, no special tools needed. No concerns about the new bearing or the hub being true.

 

Some folks frown on this. It has worked for me. And it's all because of that like 10" bolt for me. By the time you but the bolt and the stuff the bolt goes through and the bearing, and I have to take it somewhere to be pressed it adds up in $ and unpleasant work. I'd much rather swap an engine. And I could probably swap an engine quicker.

 

It's kinda like the 2.2 swap inplace of a 2.5. Some folks have strong feelings one way or the other.

 

I do 2.2 swaps if ANY reason to think the 2.5 has been overheated. And I usually replace the stub. One time I outsourced a RR wheel bearing job before the stub thing made sense to me. I wasn't willing to "tool up" and then take a chance at screwing up the hub where the bearing gets pressed in. The folks I had do the job I believe used a "hub tamer" so they could do it on the car.

Brake rotors rust when cars sit for a long time. They tend to make crunchy grumbling sounds while driving for a few miles until the rust wears off. If the rotors are extremely rusty, take them off and wire brush them. Light rust will wear away with normal use in a short time.