I hope some people can shed some light on some questions.

After getting the EA82 intake and carb matched up the issue of getting the vaccum hoses matched up is turning out to be fun.

Refering to this theard it suggest you can remove the following :

Silencer, Reed Valve, Air Control Valve, Vacuum Valve, Anti-Backfire valve,Thermal vacuum valve, Hot Idle Compensator

 

Doing so will greatly reduce the amount of hoses but I do not wish to do so if it will impeed performance. Can anyone confirm removing these are acceptable?

The swap is going into a 86 Brat with EA81. It should be noted that the EGR is being deleted as well.

Does anyone have a complete diagram for the EA81. I cannot seem to find a very good one anywhere.

I have attached a version of the EA82 digram that shows the deletes.

 

once you have the weber there is not only no need for the other hoses, but no place for them either.  most of the valves and hoses couldnt be hooked up even if you wanted to.  the hoses dont do anything for power, they just run the carb, and the weber doesnt need them.  the diagram should be on the underside of your hood.  basically make sure that everythiing that is needed on the list is there, plumb any of your wants that actually have ports to use, and throw out the rest.  

essentials are

 

fuel line to carb

ported vacuum line from carb to distributor

manifold vacuum to heater controls

gas tank vent left open (or plugged with vented cap)

 

possible additions you may want to do

 

fuel return line

vacuum line to EGR

 

beyond this the only thing that may need a vacuum line would be an accessory like AC or something, but I cant think of anything off hand.  the carbon canister does nothing anymore, all the carb control valves do nothing.  the Air suction valves still work but they dont have a place to pull air from so you have to plug them off or have an exhaust leak (or plumb them again, but most people don't).  Anti afterfire valve can go, but Id recommend leaving the EGR operational unless its malfunctioning in some way.  all it does is lower your combustion temps at speed, no power loss, and a little cooler operation for whatever its worth.  that said I probably would delete rather than fix it.

I think he's talking about using an ea82 carb rather than a Weber.

 

The canister can still be used, but you would want to check to make sure the diaphragm valve on the top of the canister does not leak.  If it does leak, then you just have to replace the canister or you will have a pesky vacuum leak.  I recommend finding one on Rockauto of a similar vintage from a different make.  I used one for a '91 Jeep Grand Wagoneer because they are $30 and I have a Wagoneer.  It's a lot bigger than stock, so I am sure you can find one closer in size to stock for a good price.

Thanks for the replies guys. So I can remove these from the EA81? The issue is that the hood is missing the diagram unforntanly so I can't refer to that. It was suggested that the same be removed from this thread but it is missing the photos. Basically removing the EGR is part due to it not functioning correctly. I think removing the formentioned parts wont hinder performance. Reading both threads suggest it but missing the pictures (vaccum diagrams for EA81) makes me unsure of the correct pieces.

 

I was hoping for confirmation and possible a diagram of the EA81. 

Again I appreciate your responses.

Here are a few pics of my de-emissioned ea81 with an ea81 Hitachi on it.  I have the following items hooked up.

 

Fuel supply and return

Bowl vent to canister

Tank vent to canister

Ported vacuum to canister

Purge line from canister to manifold

Ported vacuum to distributor

Manifold vac to choke pull-off with orifice restrictor

Manifold vac to climate control

 

I deleted my egr, but only because the egr valve I had was bunk and I did not feel like buying another one.

 

 

 

 

 

That post is very helpful, I appreciate it! Did you also do away with the hard vacuum lines that attached to the manifold?

Edited June 1, 201312 yr by NTR

sorry, thought it was an EA82 manifold and weber swap.

 

I de-emmissioned my hitachi long before I did the weber swap on mine, simply because of massive vacuum leaks.  you can basically pull everything and cap the ports on the carb, but you have to get the bowl vent right or it wont run for crap.  the bowl vent keep the pressure in the bowl set properly.   to much pressure can flood the carb, too little can starve it.  the bowl vent should be a big round orifice on top by the fuel inlets but facing the passenger side.  you have to have it slightly restricted but not blocked off.  I used a smaller hose than normally fits on the nipple, crammed it on, and left it about 3 ft long.  this got me close, ran good, and was getting 28 to the gallon, so not far off.