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Clutch Fork / Pivot Ball problem 97 Legacy Brighton

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I have a 97 legacy brighton manual i purchased as a project.

The guy i bought it from complained the clutch was out, in actuality the pivot ball had come loose from the transmission and was hanging freely on the clutch fork retainer pins. i went ahead and pulled the engine anyway, re-did a bunch of seals etc.

My problem now is the clutch fork just doesnt seem to have long enough arms to reach the throwout bearing if i screw the pivot ball in the upper hole (see picture).



http://imgur.com/sOrH4wp



the upper hole has threads, and the pivot ball fits fine, the lower hole is not threaded and the pivot ball would just fall out when the clutch fork moves. In the upper hole, the clutch fork does not have enough length to reach the input shaft so i can clip on the throwout bearing.

i looked at a few pictures and it seems that a hydraulic clutch fork from a later model has arms long enough to reach he throwout bearing, i could easily enough cut out a spot to attach the clutch pedal cable, and drill a small hole for the spring.

is the lower hole supposed to be threaded? was it stripped out perhaps? i dont know for sure.


does anyone have any advice? Should I somehow weld the pivot ball to the lower hole? I dont think that is an option honestly. I am confused how this thing worked in the first place.

Both holes are supposed to be threaded. The pivot bolt goes in the lower hole for a cable actuated clutch. You'll need to helicoil the hole.

 

I recommend replacing the release fork since you have it apart. They're prone to wearing at the pivot point and cracking. Only about $35 brand new from the dealer.

  • Author

got it thanks, helicoil to the rescue, appreciate the quick response!

Both holes are supposed to be threaded. The pivot bolt goes in the lower hole for a cable actuated clutch. You'll need to helicoil the hole.

 

I recommend replacing the release fork since you have it apart. They're prone to wearing at the pivot point and cracking. Only about $35 brand new from the dealer.

SO true about the clutch fork, when I did my transmission I was lucky it came with one because the old one started to get a fine hairline crack that's only going to get bigger.

  • 1 year later...

Anyone help me please! I changed my clutch. Used the old throw out bearing as it has the retrofit sleeve and bearing was of much better quality than the one supplied. Anyways all back together now the fork with the bearing/sleeve/retainer clip just seems to have way too much play I can't figure out what I did wrong maybe a picture if the fork assembled completely before mating to the engine would help Please help I need to fix today!

Anyone help me please! I changed my clutch. Used the old throw out bearing as it has the retrofit sleeve and bearing was of much better quality than the one supplied. Anyways all back together now the fork with the bearing/sleeve/retainer clip just seems to have way too much play I can't figure out what I did wrong maybe a picture if the fork assembled completely before mating to the engine would help Please help I need to fix today!

How about year and model?

Is it cable actuated or hydraulic?

Did you replace the U clips that hold the release bearing to the fork?

97 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5 ej25 all wheel drive hydraulic clutch when I pulled it back together now there's no place feels fine but now the car suddenly will not start at all sounds like its going to but nothing started won't turn nothing even with the JumpStart now I'm baffled completely

Make sure the small wire to the starter solenoid is plugged in securely.

Got it all together and driving but now the lower hose got a hole God forbid ya ever need I keep bleeding the clutch I had a new line made no leaks in it anywhere but I still keep losing it but there's just not much petrol there why I put the pivot ball in the upper hole it's a hydraulic clutch is that wrong or is that right

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