Hi everyone,

So we got our forester back today, two months after the hit and run. We picked it up after hours and they have performed all the work for free, it looks great but.......

 

The check engine light flashes at 2 flashes per second. I heard this is really bad news. hdoes anyone have any suggestions?

Also the exhaust sounds really boggy, performs well, no audible knocks, just sounds like wasted fuel maybe? All i do know is that the check engine light was on constantly because of a bad 02 sensor but all of a sudden we get it back and its flashing. Also the radio didn't work at first, i had to pull fuses under the hood to get it back on. 

 

I want to clear the blinking light and see if it returns, I know how to use the under the dash method to check abs, but how do i clear the engine codes manually?

 

Thanks everyone!

A flashing CEL means a misfire. Check the connections of your plug wires on both ends and look for any loose wiring under the hood. Something may have been missed at the shop. The exhaust would do that since the spark is intermittent. The issues should be one in the same.

 

To clear codes, you just disconnect the battery for a while. This is very unlikely to do anything for your misfire though. Could be anything from a missed wiring connector, to a fouled plug. Likely this is not a big issue, just a pain to find the culprit.

A flashing CEL means a misfire. Check the connections of your plug wires on both ends and look for any loose wiring under the hood. Something may have been missed at the shop. The exhaust would do that since the spark is intermittent. The issues should be one in the same.

 

To clear codes, you just disconnect the battery for a while. This is very unlikely to do anything for your misfire though. Could be anything from a missed wiring connector, to a fouled plug. Likely this is not a big issue, just a pain to find the culprit.

Good advise, also check the oil level on the dip stick, make sure the oil level is full.

 

You don't say what was repaired, but to be on the safe side, check as much wiring and vacuum hose connectors that you can that are under the hood. Even check to see that the battery connectors are tight. Stuff in a body shop gets disconnected, and maybe not reconnected properly. I have had that happen in the past.

So last night I found that the green diagnostic connections were left connected by the shop. After disconnecting all went back to normal. The only problem now is that they over tightened the banjo bolt on the power steering pump, causing a serious high pressure leak, aye yae yae. They tried to cover their rump roast with silicone but didn't work. They worked on front passenger body and suspension, the engine was fine when it got picked up as I was going to do a Franken motor swap into a 99. I can't complain to much, they fixed everything for free after they seen our daughter on the news after the hit and run.

So last night I found that the green diagnostic connections were left connected by the shop. After disconnecting all went back to normal. The only problem now is that they over tightened the banjo bolt on the power steering pump, causing a serious high pressure leak, aye yae yae. They tried to cover their rump roast with silicone but didn't work. They worked on front passenger body and suspension, the engine was fine when it got picked up as I was going to do a Franken motor swap into a 99. I can't complain to much, they fixed everything for free after they seen our daughter on the news after the hit and run.

Power steering unit is an easy swap out. Easy to find one in a wrecking yard for cheap. Doesn't surprise me about the over tighten. I bet the washer was bad, so someone just super tightened it. That didn't work, so where is the tube of silicone. Maybe replacing the washer will solve the problem.

Edited February 1, 201412 yr by Rooster2

Did they not put a washer on both sides of the banjo fitting? Should have 2 copper washers on it. One on the case side, one on the bolt head side. If it doesn't, just pull the bolt off and pick up a couple that fit around the bolt from a parts store. As long as they didnt Scrooge the threads in the pump housing it should be fine with new washers.

It does have the dual copper gaskets. Problem is they are jacked. Running up to nappa yo match up new ones. Pump is still good, just have to replace the gasket. I even tried copper spray on gasket and still couldn't quite seal. They guys at the body shop must get payed in banannas. Jeez.

Rump roast* hahaha. That's the best auto correct I've seen yet.

 

rump roast*