Hey guys, so I found a replacement motor for my rig, got one with 50k miles on it!

 

Since my previous motor had just gotten the timing belt and water pump done before the rod knock happened, and plugs, wires, etc, I think I'm going to transfer all of that stuff to the new motor. What else should I do though?

 

I'm considering putting in some Delta torque cams, and either way I'll adjust the valve lash. Has anyone gone through smog with these by chance?

 

Are there any gaskets that tend to leak and are hard to get at with the motor in, or anything else that should be sorted before I drop it in the car?

 

Other easy bolt on mods? (just have K&N drop in, axle back right now)

 

I'm wondering if I should look into a WRX oil pump, since I tend to cruise at pretty high RPM on the highway due to my lego trans swap (4.11) and I can't help but wonder if cruising at 3.5-4K+ RPM did in my rod bearing, in which case I'd think a better oil pump would be a smart move.

 

Any sugestions appreciated, please and thanks! 

Edited May 24, 201411 yr by blk99obs

If the old engine was ever overheated, that was probably what did the rod bearing in, though I agree that turning 4k rpm for (possibly) hours at a time isnt good for it either. An upgraded oil pump is not a bad idea, and is fairly common so there is plenty of info about it floating around Internet land.

 

You'll want to reseal the separator plate and the wrist pin cover on the back of the engine while you have easy access to it.

what he said about separator plate.  common leak point.

oil pan requires engine to be lifted to be replaced, but they don't really leak that often.  if you're up to it, reseal it, but otherwise it probably won't be an issue.

 

Subaru XT6's manual trans have low gearing and run 4,000 at 80 mph, so they'll see that for hours on end highway driving too.

It had a minor overheat probably 2 years ago. I was sitting idling to run the heat, and it blew the bypass hose, gauge was 3/4 or so to pegged before I noticed.

 

I'll seal that stuff up, and I think I'm gonna go ahead with the Deltas!

Beergarage has a nice picture/text description of the oil separator plate replacement (Don't follow the Beergarage advice about replacing the rear main seal unless there is a major issue there-factory is usually good for the life of the car and correct replacement is difficult.) 

Use some Ultra Grey RTV to seal the plate.  

Beergarage has a nice picture/text description of the oil separator plate replacement (Don't follow the Beergarage advice about replacing the rear main seal unless there is a major issue there-factory is usually good for the life of the car and correct replacement is difficult.) 

Use some Ultra Grey RTV to seal the plate.  

I hear ya, rear main blew on my old motor and I fixed it while the tranny was out. Had to get it to settle just perfect in there, but it worked, no more leaks!

Thanks!

Use 10w30 oil as in the owners book it clearly states "5w30 is not recommended for prolonged high speed operation"

Use 10w30 oil as in the owners book it clearly states "5w30 is not recommended for prolonged high speed operation"

Yup I read that too, thanks though. I use 5W-40 Rotella in everything now, even my Ninja likes it.