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Can the cable TO brg fork be used in this later hydra clutch trans?

Has anyone here done the ej R&P swap to a EA d/r trans using the late 99 up 8 bolt bell housing 5 mt trans?

Replacing the d/r 3.90 R&P with a 4.11 R&P from a 99 Lego OB & adding the viscous center diff for AWD.

 

Here are links to similar threads about this;

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129898-4444-x-1592-x-3545-251/?hl=transmission

http://www.offroadingsubarus.com/outbacklowrange_part1.html

 

Thanks!

Edited by czny

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And of course I know the front & rear ratios must match.

 

Already have the rear 4.11 diff here.

 

Edit:Went back and retrieved the TY754VCACB trans today, 6/14.

 

Will start trans gear swapping when another vehicle is gone from my driveway.

 

Any input from those who've done the gear swaps would be helpful.

Edited by czny

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"Can the cable TO brg fork be used in this later hydra clutch trans?"

 

The answer is yes. Checked the clutch lever arm & bell housing on a 98 Lego OB and found one of the slave cyl holes being used for the hill holder bracket.

 

Scored another center diff & tail housing assembly from this same OB. Same bolt pattern as the 99 OB trans, just different mounting point for shift linkage.

 

 

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I think you will find the just throwing a slave on, and using the Cable fork will require too long a throw....over extending the slave.

 

You can use a hydro clutch in that trans though..........just get a hydro fork, and move the ball pivot to the further out hole in the bell.

 

If you get a Hill holder cable bracket from an earlier legacy, you can even keep the hillholder.....(the older ones use the top case trans case half bolt rther than the slave mounting)

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Can the cable TO brg fork be used in this later hydra clutch trans?

Has anyone here done the ej R&P swap to a EA d/r trans using the late 99 up 8 bolt bell housing 5 mt trans?

Replacing the d/r 3.90 R&P with a 4.11 R&P from a 99 Lego OB & adding the viscous center diff for AWD.

 

Here are links to similar threads about this;

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129898-4444-x-1592-x-3545-251/?hl=transmission

http://www.offroadingsubarus.com/outbacklowrange_part1.html

 

Thanks!

 

Hate to bum you out......but I think you will not be able to keep the D/R.

 

The gearset from the EA lower shaft will not fit on the EJ lower shaft.  And using mixing hte EA and EJ gearsets won't work .2nd-5th are different ratios.  And there is actually a change in the cut of the teeth too.

 

I built almost the excact trans you are describing.......it grumbled but worked.....for about 1000 miles.....then 2nd gear ate itself.

 

If you foudn a way around that issue..........fitting the 4.11 with D/R would still require shaving the corner of the ring gear (3.9 rings come like that, 4.11's not) and shaving of the D/R Shift collar itself about .100" 

 

sorry......In theory you could do this build if you could find an RX box to use the upper gearshaft from...as this trans has matching 2nd-5th ratios w/EJ.

 

You can easily swap the entire EJ gearset and AWD into a S/R (pushbutton) EA trans case......but nt sure why you'd want to??  Maybe 4.11 AWD behind an EA81????

 

Or you can put EA S/R guts either P/T or FT4wd w/difflock into EJ case for no adapter EJ swap.

Edited by Gloyale

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Transmissions on hand:

99 Lego OB, 8 bolt bell, 4.11 R&P

96 Imp, 4 bolt bell, 3.90 R&P 

88 PT D/R(besides the one still in use)

90 FT S/R, 3.90

88 FT S/R, 3.70

 

I've read all of the still existing threads including yours. Let me at least try out some other ideas. I have here at my disposal a vertical mill, lathe, tool & cutter grinder, tool post grinder & a TIG welder.

If not  feasible at least I can build a fresh D/R for the EJ swap. Need one anyway. One in the car is growling with bad bearings.

Edited by czny

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Given what we know about the failure, the ideal would be to keep matched sets of input & output gears in the modified trans, right?

 

What I'm proposing would be to cut & shut the D/R end of the input shaft forward of the 1st gear & 1st bearing onto a EJ input shaft. NOT butt welded but cut & turn down the EJ input shaft to a step. Bore the other piece for a press fit of .001-.0015". Key to this is ratio of male shaft diameter to bored female donor piece to maintain best strength. Chill the input shaft & heat the donor piece from the D/R, slip the pieces together, then 4 small plug welds between the bearing & the 4 high gear.  All machine work would have be as concentric as possible to keep run-out to minimum. Lathe work with dead center, drive dog, steady rest & checking with indicators should do fine.

 

Would still need a bell adapter but I already have one for the EJ swap.

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