96 Legacy 2.2. The spark plugs go in above the valve covers, Not through them. It may be a coincidence but the problem started after switching to Red Line oil. I used other full synthetics before, (Amsoil, M1, RP) never had an issue. Red Line is also the only one that quieted the ticking valve lash also.

I won't get a check engine or a misfire if I baby it. There are times when I must accelerate briskly to merge into fast traffic. If the motor's cold (first 4 miles and under load), I will get a P0301 code for the misfire in cylinder 1. That is the only cylinder that has the issue.

While replacing spark plugs I was shocked by the #1 boot as well as the outside of the spark plug drenched in oil. The other plugs are fine. The business end, (electrode inside the cylinder where it sparks) is fine.

So I replaced plugs and wires. No help. What is the deal?

 

I know it's an older car with a ton of miles but I like it, I wan't to make it well.

Edited August 5, 201411 yr by stevenva

1.  where is the oil coming from?   fix the oil leak, which i'm guessing is the power steering pump leaking or the oil pressure sender leaking.

 

2.  how many miles?

 

3.  clyinder 1 misfire also after installing new plugs and wires? 

 

4.  what brand plugs and wires?

 

is the tapping valve train or piston slap? 

can you test oil pressure?

if it's valve train i'd want to reseal the oil pump and ensure good oil volume to the hydraulic valve lash adjusters.

 

those 96 2.2's can run forever, old or high mileage doesn't bother them.

1. Somewhere that allows the plug boot and outside of spark plug of cylinder 1 to be coated in oil.

2. Just over 318,000 miles.

3. Yes.

4. Ngk.

There is no more ticking. That has been gone since April when I changed oil and switched brands.

cylinder one is the passengers side front - so that's the one in question right?

 

1. power steering pump leaking.

2. valve cover gasket

3.  replace the PCV valve if it's never been done - it's probably plugged and crankcase can't vent properly, pushing oil out places it doesn't need to go.

 

need to pull the power steering pump and confirm the source of the leak.  it's easily removed:
1. remove belt

2. unbolt bracket from engine block and swing entire assembly to the side (and any bolts on the power steering line brackets to allow you to swing it - 2 10mm bolts i think).

only takes 15 - 30 minutes

Drivers front.

The portion of the spark plug boot that is outside of the engine, (where you pull it), is clean. Pull the boot as you would when replacing a spark plug and the portion inside the engine is covered in oil.