Legacywagon Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Hey guys. I have a 2000 subaru legacy wwagon And I live in maryland area. Maryland got hit hard with snow and temperature got below negative degrees almost every day. This year is probably the most coldest and most snow we ever had for a while. So in February 14 (valentine day) it was so cold that it snowed a lot and icy to covered the first layer. My car started out fine even though I have a rip fuel hose (the hose 2 inches lonG).The hose is located where the first injector rail at. It was leaking at cold start. Once the engine is fully warm, it doesn't seem to leak. 7 Days after that, temperature drop again to negative degrees and one-digit degrees. I still managed to start my car. Now, in February 25 I did drove the subaru And start fine. I Even drove it 30 miles. Two days ago(Thursday), I cant start my car. Bear in mind, it still have the same rip fuel hose. the day before, I filled up the gas because my tank was below 1/4. I shouldn't have done that but I had so much school work that every minute counts and it did paid off. My fuel pump did prime and fuel leak to that hose I mentioned. What's weird:when I cranked the car and give it some gas and revved one time, it started but it was at 200 rpm. Then, it died 5 seconds later. Here is the video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JfhiC-8g8j8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 (edited) If you crack the throttle open a little while cranking will it start? The 00-04 models have a common issue with the fuel pump. Costs about $65 to fix but it's better than buying a whole pump assembly at $400+. Second page of this thread has good pics of the part, new part numbers and links to part and new o-ring. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129528-fuel-pump-leaky-o-ring-other/page-2 Edited February 28, 2015 by Fairtax4me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacywagon Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 If you crack the throttle open a little while cranking will it start? The 00-04 models have a common issue with the fuel pump. Costs about $65 to fix but it's better than buying a whole pump assembly at $400+. Second page of this thread has good pics of the part, new part numbers and links to part and new o-ring. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129528-fuel-pump-leaky-o-ring-other/page-2 Sorry for late. I change the Rip hose that I mentioned. It took awhile because was hard and stuc. So I did open the gas pedal a bit like you said. It started but it was idle at 700 rpm.It sounded not right. Cold start should be 1500 rpm or so. I turned the car off and it crank but won't start without pedal. So I did look at the exhaust and smells it. Smell like fuel. Since you are in Fairfax. I drove this to laurel the day before this happen. So it's out of the blue. any suggestions? No cel either I even scan it. I did bought an eBay coilpack for time being December 2014. Could coilpack be an issue? I think it have warranty on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Not likely the coil pack. Could be a bad ECT sensor. If it starts when you hit the gas pedal, can you keep it running by giving it some gas to keep the idle up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacywagon Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 (edited) Not likely the coil pack. Could be a bad ECT sensor. If it starts when you hit the gas pedal, can you keep it running by giving it some gas to keep the idle up? First time, I press the gas pedal a bit. It start and idle at 700 rpm.It should be 1500 rpm since the engine is cold. So I turned it off.I cranked it again and give it gas pedal and starts. As soon as it starstart, I tap the gas pedal twice to rev the engine and it rev up fine. As soon as I let go off the gas pedal, it died. I went to the back exhaust. And I smell the inlet exhaust real close and it smell like gaS. Question: 1. What is ect? 2.I did some research that it can be coilpack. The reason why I say this, fuel pump work and prime, so I was thinking of a spark. I don't think it's wires or spark plugs because it's so weird that all 4 wires or plugs just go bye bye at once. Do you think I should go to my local napa autoparts and buy one then return it if it will not work? 3. This "ect" how hard is it to get to? I have a bit of car experience. I change pcv valve, valve cover gasket set, spark plugs, radiator, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, crankshaft and camshaft sensor. I may left out some experience but those are some of my experiences in fixing my subaru. Edited March 1, 2015 by Legacywagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 ECT is Engine Coolant Temp. The ECT sensor tells the computer when the engine is cold and that makes it idle high. If you know someone with a scanner that can read live data you can see the ECT output and see if it thinks the engine is warm. If the ECU thinks the engine is warm it will not idle high and the fuel mixture will be lean so it won't run right. You can test this by keeping the engine running for 2-3 minutes, then it will warm up and should stay running on its own. Shut it off and see if it will restart. If it does shut it off and let it cool down for about 2-3 hours then try to start it again. If the ECT is bad it will probably do the same as before, crank but won't start and idle low if it does start. ECT sensor is below the intake manifold on the back of the coolant pipe on top of the block. Remove the PCV hose and you can get a 19mm wrench on it to loosen it. Its kind of hidden right under where the wire harness runs underneath the manifold. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacywagon Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 (edited) ECT is Engine Coolant Temp. The ECT sensor tells the computer when the engine is cold and that makes it idle high. If you know someone with a scanner that can read live data you can see the ECT output and see if it thinks the engine is warm. If the ECU thinks the engine is warm it will not idle high and the fuel mixture will be lean so it won't run right. You can test this by keeping the engine running for 2-3 minutes, then it will warm up and should stay running on its own. Shut it off and see if it will restart. If it does shut it off and let it cool down for about 2-3 hours then try to start it again. If the ECT is bad it will probably do the same as before, crank but won't start and idle low if it does start. ECT sensor is below the intake manifold on the back of the coolant pipe on top of the block. Remove the PCV hose and you can get a 19mm wrench on it to loosen it. Its kind of hidden right under where the wire harness runs underneath the manifold. Actually, I think you are right. I did give it some gas, and the car stays on. As soon as I let go, it died. No check engine light or anything. All of a sudden that day. Do you think I can replace the engine coolant temperature sensor from the experience I mention? Also, I will buy engine coolant temperature sensor tomorrow. I may replace it tomorrow or Monday because I have to go to a state court for my class. Is it okay if we can keep in touch for this time being? Edited March 1, 2015 by Legacywagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Yeah you'll be able to do that just fine. Just be careful of the vacuum hoses in that area. Old hoses are brittle and may break. Some coolant will come out when you remove the sensor. Just be ready to pop the new sensor in quick to minimize coolant loss. You should test it first like I described before. The problem could be something else like the MAF sensor, or could be fuel pressure related. I don't know how much those ECT sensors are, but no point spending money if you don't have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacywagon Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Yeah you'll be able to do that just fine. Just be careful of the vacuum hoses in that area. Old hoses are brittle and may break. Some coolant will come out when you remove the sensor. Just be ready to pop the new sensor in quick to minimize coolant loss. You should test it first like I described before. The problem could be something else like the MAF sensor, or could be fuel pressure related. I don't know how much those ECT sensors are, but no point spending money if you don't have to. Oh ok. After I replace the coolant temperature sensor, do I have to burp the radiator again incase of air? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacywagon Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Does anyone know a trick how to take out the whole pcv valve hose? Like the base To the end that connect the pcv valve? So I can put my deep socket to the coolant sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Usually there is a bitch of a clamp on the PCV hose at the bottom and its a real pain to get a socket in there to tighten a new clamp. Easier to just use a 19mm wrench on the sensor. It shouldn't be all that tight. There is a copper crush ring on the sensor that seals it to the pipe. You may need to transfer that ring to the new sensor. Some new ones come with it and some don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacywagon Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 (edited) Usually there is a bitch of a clamp on the PCV hose at the bottom and its a real pain to get a socket in there to tighten a new clamp. Easier to just use a 19mm wrench on the sensor. It shouldn't be all that tight. There is a copper crush ring on the sensor that seals it to the pipe. You may need to transfer that ring to the new sensor. Some new ones come with it and some don't. Oh. I did move the clamp (the bottom pcv hose) to more to the top. After that, I tried to pull it out and won't budge.I know I didn't pull it hard enough because I was ontop of ice. I almost slip too many times. Do I need a socket to stick it down at the bottom Of the pcv hose to remove it after I move the clamp a bit upward ..? Or i need more strength to pull it harder. Edited March 3, 2015 by Legacywagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Those hoses turn rock hard when they get old. Especially in the cold. It'll probably break if you try to pull harder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacywagon Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 Those hoses turn rock hard when they get old. Especially in the cold. It'll probably break if you try to pull harder. damn it. So I don't need to use any socket right To pull that hose? Just pull it out right? Because I saw in Google that there is this part that has a thread on it but it was for the ej22. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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