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I agree with the good advice from Fairtax4me. You may have to remove the main output lead to the alternator and not just the smaller connector going to it. The main lead is hot to the battery at all times so be careful if you work on it. The safest way is to remove the negative battery cable connection first and then disconnect and isolate the alternator lead.

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I have pulled out the two relays in the ABS hydraulic module as well as the main output lead to the alternator, but am still seeing the fluctuation from 290ma to 490ma every 5 seconds.  Thank you for helping me rule those two possibilities out.  Do you have any other suggestions for areas to check?

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Kinda thinking that's a problem in the underhood fuse box.

You did pull all of the large slow-blow fuses as well right?

Nothing goes inside the car until it comes through one of the fuses or relays in the underhood fuse panel. So If everything has been removed from that box, and the problem is still there, the problem is internal in the fuse box. (Assuming there are no accessories wired straight to the battery)

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Pretty simple. Two bolts and you can lift/flip the box over. There's a dust cover on the bottom that just kinda clips on. Pop that off and you'll see there are several connectors on the bottom of the fuse panel, and a nut that holds the charge lead and the main battery lead to the fuse box.

Check the wiring under the fuse box for any damage.

Maybe you can see some corrosion or a cooked mouse in there?

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If you have removed all the SBF main fuses in the main panel one at a time and it made no major difference in the current draw then move on to the smaller fuses in the panel. If pulling those fuses makes no difference in the current draw then you need to check the leads going to the positive battery post. There should be only one smaller lead going to the battery post that supplies power to the main panel. Check for a added lead at the starter solenoid also tied to the main battery lead.

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