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I notice it seems to be adjustable, and can be turned. It was twisted all the way to the right, or clockwise. So, when I put the new one in, I put it the same. Then I experimented a little, loosening the screws and turning it So the idle slowed. But when I went to test drive it, I found out that it now has no power. So I put it back, but I really don't know what I'm doing

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Tps is adjustable and needs to be set so there is 0.5v on the center pin with throttle closed.

 

If someone messed with the TPS they could have messed with the throttle stop screw on the throttle body as well. Adjusting this changes the amount of airflow around the throttle plate at closed throttle and will alter the idle air/fuel mixture. It also throws off the ECUs ability to control idle speed with the idle air control valve. There should be a paint mark on the adjusting screw and the lock nut for the throttle stop, if the paint marks are not aligned, or the paint is broken, the throttle stop needs to be reset before adjusting the TPS.

 

Once the TPS is properly adjusted, you need to reset the ECU by unhooking the battery negative cable for 10-15 minutes. Then restart and allow the ECU to relearn its idle settings.

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A couple other possible things to check if that isn't it would be any vacuum leaks. Also on my '94 I have had trouble with the throttle not completely closing when the pedal is released but usually only when it is hot outside like above 85F. It seems like the throttle return spring isn't quite strong enough or is gummed up a bit for some reason. When that happens it doesn't make the engine race but it feels like you have your foot on the gas a bit even when stopped.

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The stop screw is rusted so that I cannot identify any paint or any other reliable reference marks. I did manage to get the idle down to 2k simply by forcing the throttle closed with my hand and it feels sluggish so I wonder if it's a lube issue.

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