porcupine73

I've been out of the Subaru loop for a while, but I think I recall someone saying that the notches on the back of the cam sprocket that the cam position sensor reads has to be the same on the old and new engine. I think some engines have a double notch and some have one, so the ECU has to match in order to interpret the cam position signal correctly.

They sure are bright and energy efficient. Does anyone find that their eyes feel like they're dry and burning after being under LED's for more than an hour or so?

It can be tricky to get rid of; people try various things. I had it on my '00obw but never got rid of it. I replaced the rear, then front sensors, with the genuine part, but the code would still come back. I would get the code only on really windy days. Make sure all your heat shields are in place is something others have mentioned. Since mine would only pop infrequently (when really windy every couple months) I just reset it, and normally at inspection time it was ok because I hadn't reset it recently. One thing I've seen mentioned is a spark plug non-fouler.

You may also need the LH camshaft sprocket (see other posts above).

The roof rails ways is probably better than inside, and I don't know if 48" wide will fit diagonally in the back or how that would work .. but in my '94 Legacy I hauled a sheet of 4'x8'x5/8" in the back. The loader helped me jam it in there diagonally as far as it would go, which was only like a bit over 1/3 of the way. He looked at me like I was crazy and I said com'n this can't be the craziest thing you've ever seen someone do here. Top 10 maybe. I rope the tailgate down over it and tied it. I was only going like 1/2 mile on a sidestreet from the lumber store so it wasn't too bad. The thing was so wedged in there I had trouble getting it out. And it scratched the heck out of the plastics. Then I went back and got a 2nd sheet. The guy wanted to put on the roof rack but those sheets were like 60+ lbs and I thought it would be too hard to get it off there myself. Pulling it out the back worked great, then I just had a furniture dolly there and wheeled it into the garage. I will definitely miss the cargo carrying ability in those. I carried a refrigerator back there one time, a full size upright freezer another time, with the tailgate fully closed. It was great.

'96 2.2L would have had the hydraulic lash adjusters. They can go bad. Someone had a nice write up on here (Haynes manual also describes it) or pulling the adjuster, and something like sticking a pin in the prime hole while pumping it in a dish of clean oil. Then a bunch of gunky stuff comes out. If it holds the prime after it's usually ok I think. Or there have been many posts saying adding Marvel Mystery Oil seemed to really help. Maybe it helps clean that junk out while the engine is running. My '96 had one or more adjusters that I think would bleed down after the car sat, but then after running for a while they would maybe prime back up and were quiet. I'm not sure.

Great photos, hoping the trip is going smoothly!

You're sure there's no air intake tubing that got unhooked? There's usually a hose to each valve cover and then if it's MAF based there's a slightly bigger one that goes to the iacv. Often when working on stuff one or more of those will come unhooked and not get noticed, which can cause issues because it lets unmetered air in (if yours has a MAF, that year/model I think still did with the MAP/speed density starting around 2000)/. I had a '96 Legacy 2.2L before, and yes that same scenario about the crankshaft position sensor happened to me.

Only one I really know about is the rear sway bar end links, I used Whiteline KLC26 on a '96 Legacy, I believe those will fit the Outback also.

I couldn't remember the answer to this - if someone in the past had put power steering fluid in it instead of ATF - does that make it do bad things maybe?

This diagram was for a DOHC but I think the bracket is similar if not the same (to maybe give a rough idea of the bolts):

Someone who has one would probably best know, but two spots I can think of are possibly if it has/had the adapter thingy on the oil filter mount that had two coolant lines on it, and the Forester turbo's I thought had an extra nipple on the water pump return, like one for the heater core return and then the other for something else possibly having to do with the turbo.

Yes you can get the bracket as part of a rebuilt caliper. It seems that most remans, but not all, include the bracket. I had that 'flaking' rotor problem but just assumed it was cheap steel / parts store rotors. The best rotors I had were just plain Centric which I got off Amazon and were inexpensive, those were great.

On mine it had a small yellow ring tab, like big enough for your pinkie. It was near-ish to the brake fluid reservoir as a landmark but yes having to kind of reach down in there maybe 6-8 inches below hoodline. It you don't see it, it is possible it is missing, like someone removed it and didn't put it back for some reason.

Hm does it change at all if you're applying the brakes at all like lightly --> firmly?

Is it throwing any codes?

I had a '96 before, yes I would say unhook the battery even overnight (some 90's models had a TSB about making sure the battery is unhooked long enough for the ECU ram to actually clear and not have random garbage data in it). My '96 would learn 'bad habits' like this weird stumbling stuttering at idle that would go away and be perfect after a battery unhook but after a couple days it would relearn its bad habits (though it probably had one or more sensors or other issues that made it learn those bad habits).

Just grasping at straws but what size is the SD card? Back in '06 maybe the larger SD cards weren't so common or supported, maybe say something 4GB at the most maybe even smaller?

1994 2.2L n/a is non-interference, no piston/valve interference, and being an sohc no intake-exhaust valve interference possible. Assuming it broke just because the belt was old then that should be pretty simple. If an idler seized up or failed or something like that it might be slightly more involved. Make sure to get the crank pulley bolt gut-en-tight so it doesn't loosen up and hog out the keyway.

Thanks, I think the cat was ok, fortunately it still ran fine after I replaced the ignitor. I had this posted in the marketplace section but then realized Google doesn't seem to index those posts so hoping it will pick up the VIN here now. Did you buy this vehicle? Let's talk, I can tell you all kinds of history about it and its 'special features'. Supposedly will be at the Akron auto auction soon. This was my 'baby' Subaru for over 10 years which I just traded in on something else and was told it would be sent to the Akron, OH auto auction. This is sort of a 'missed connections' post. I wanted to leave a note in the car with a link to this site but forgot. I'm hoping the eventual buyer/owner will Google the VIN and find this post and maybe I can live vicariously as the new owner enjoys it. The Vin is 4S3BK4254T7309582. It's a 1996 Subaru Legacy 2.2L automatic transmission. The reason I traded it was it needed exhaust, the right front transverse link bushing, and a couple other issues. I just didn't have the time/motivation to continue maintaining/repairing it. Mileage was about 149,000. Putting more than maybe 1/3 tank of fuel will make it drip. I think it's rusted at the tank seam. It has new transmission hard cooler lines, new front sway bar links and bushings. timing belt, starter, and more should all be good. It has King Springs Outback lift springs with Outback struts and the biggest snow tires that would fit (which were actually for my 2000 Outback but they happened to just barely fit on the '96). Here's roughly what it looks like (though this is an old pic it looked nowhere near this good when I traded it; it was far far far rustier).

Right on, there was a funny story sometime posted years back. He said he had just gotten the car and took his wife to the grocery store. He was supposed to pull the car up when she came out after shopping. He was looking for something to do while she was shopping so he started looking around the car since he had just gotten it. He saw those connectors and thought 'self those should be plugged in'. Then when the wife came out and he started the car it was doing all kinds of weird things. So basically he got in trouble because he somehow managed to break the car while she was shopping.

Right they're for diagnostics and should normally be unhooked. It does happen though, 'self, these connectors look like they should be plugged in, they must have come unplugged somehow', and then odd things start happening.

Is it throwing any codes? If the engine coolant temp sensor is bad or not connected the ECU will run the fans as a failsafe since it doesn't know what the temp is. There's two sensors - one for the gauge, the 'coolant temp sensor', which is not the sensor we're looking at/for. The other is the engine coolant temp sensor - that's the one I'm referring to. (Or as already mentioned if the a/c or defrost is on that will do it too).

Sounds like a fun job to get at the fittings. I didn't look at mine too close just saw a couple rusted through pieces on the bottom above the jack up plate without looking at it closer. I was thinking more about the aftermarket part, they're probably fine, I mean the genuine original lines lasted what 20+ years, if the aftermarket lines last even 1/3 that long that's probably still enough?

One sort of major thing would be timing belt if it hasn't been done. If it's an auto trans some of those had the slow to engage into drive issue. Beyond that there's the normal subaru stuff lke do all the tires match, torque bind, etc. It could have the external HG peeping leak if they weren't done under the TSB/warranty but that you can kind of get away with if you pay close attention to the level in the radiator and use the super magical holts radweld.