I got my weber and new engine in my brat but its having some weird running/idling issues. I left the carb settings alone assuming they were set right from the previous car (haven't done lean best tuning) but it wants to idle around 1500rpms once it gets warmed up. I also had it not want to start today, waited a few minutes and then with the gas pedal all the way down it finally roared back to life... maybe just air in the fuel line(i had been driving for about 20min up to that point)?

 

How does the weber carb know when to deactivate the choke? My thermostat isn't working, could the reading of no temperature there be cause the choke to always stay on or something seeing as its the electric choke carb? I also have 2 vacum tube mysteries.

 

Is there anyone in the inner Portland area with a ea81 weber car that would be willing to come let me take a peak and make some notes?

 

thanks,

Anderson

The electric choke is heated electrically and is unaffected by coolant temp.  You haven't mentioned timing.  You cannot tune a carb or engine, for that matter, without proper timing.  It's the most basic and important setting on the engine and dramatically effects how the carb works.  Once you verify/set the timing, then you can tune the carb, which may then affect timing again...adjust, repeat.  Tuning a newly installed carb is an iterative process.  I may be persuaded to swing by this weekend with my timing gun, but I won't have time before then.

The electric choke is heated electrically and is unaffected by coolant temp.  You haven't mentioned timing.  You cannot tune a carb or engine, for that matter, without proper timing.  It's the most basic and important setting on the engine and dramatically effects how the carb works.  Once you verify/set the timing, then you can tune the carb, which may then affect timing again...adjust, repeat.  Tuning a newly installed carb is an iterative process.  I may be persuaded to swing by this weekend with my timing gun, but I won't have time before then.

 

I think I've got a timing gun somewhere, I'll check that this week. The engine I swapped in already had the Weber installed and running but It wouldn't hurt to check it anyway. 

 

thanks

Webered Subaru's seem to like a bit more timing also. Anywhere from 10* to 12* vs. the stock 8*.

Checked the timing last night when i got home, someone has marked 2 white lines on the flywheel at about 10deg. and then in the advanced position. The engine fires right at the first white mark and then smoothly progressed and hovered right near the second white mark as I applied throttle. Its was too dark by the time I got home to be able to see the factory marks but I'll try again this evening.

Do you have ~11-12v to the choke?

 

Also, what kind of throttle return spring are you running?

Edited February 10, 201610 yr by ferox

Do you have ~11-12v to the choke?

 

Also, what kind of throttle return spring are you running?

 

I'll have to check the power when i get home, I think its just the Weber spring. I did notice that the idle speed screw (not the mixture screw) is not contacting the throttle bracket that the throttle cable mounts too... even when i try and push it toward the idle speed screw it won't rotate that enough to come in contact with the screw. All the linkages on the carb seem to be in order, maybe something is just mechanically binding it up and preventing it from returning far enough?

Throttle cable adjustment would be the first thing I'd check.

There should be a slight amount of slack in the free part of the cable where it attaches to the linkage on the carb.

 

If it's at the end of the adjustment, you can bend the bracket a bit, or space it out more towards the carb.

 

Trying to picture the Weber set up in my head as it first was on one of my BRATs. Not doing to good on that, been awhile.

Thinking I had to finagle the cable mount bracket some to get it right.

Throttle cable adjustment would be the first thing I'd check.

There should be a slight amount of slack in the free part of the cable where it attaches to the linkage on the carb.

 

If it's at the end of the adjustment, you can bend the bracket a bit, or space it out more towards the carb.

 

Trying to picture the Weber set up in my head as it first was on one of my BRATs. Not doing to good on that, been awhile.

Thinking I had to finagle the cable mount bracket some to get it right.

 

Yeah,  I had to make some changes to the bracket but its adjusted correctly. Even if i detach the cable completely the linkage won't go all the way back to the screw so something must be stopping it. Maybe a piece of the linkage is hooked up wrong... I'll give it another look tonight or later this week.

Just checked the pics in your other thread.

 

Looks like they used the Hitachi cable pivot on the Weber.

 

I've had issues using that on mine. Barrel on end of cable would catch on the choke linkage. Thinking it was the choke linkage, it's been a few years. But it's toward the front of the Weber, right next to where the cable attachment is.

 

If that is the issue. Remove the pivot from the carb and put a couple flat washers on the throttle shaft, then replace the pivot.

Just checked the pics in your other thread.

 

Looks like they used the Hitachi cable pivot on the Weber.

 

I've had issues using that on mine. Barrel on end of cable would catch on the choke linkage. Thinking it was the choke linkage, it's been a few years. But it's toward the front of the Weber, right next to where the cable attachment is.

 

If that is the issue. Remove the pivot from the carb and put a couple flat washers on the throttle shaft, then replace the pivot.

 

Gotcha, I hope that's all it is... When I drove the parts car home it seemed to be running really well. Maybe something just got a little bent as I was jockeying engines around.

Checked out the throttle cable/carb linkages and what not last night. The throttle cable was rubbing on one of the linkages a bit so I used a washer to space the bracket out but what's really causing the problem is the linkage piece behind the choke mechanism where the electric wire plugs onto. There is a little screw you can turn behind the elec. choke and as i was poking around with my screwdriver it popped onto whatever it is supposed to be seated on and the idle screw moved into its correct position. I'll have to take the air filter off to fully see what's going on back there and fix it, but I'm pretty sure that's the issue.

Hope it's the issue.

 

Gotta love easy fixes......