SubaruLover20 Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 I have a 93 Subaru Legacy L non turbo sedan and I need to know how to adjust the clutch cable and also how do I safely disengage the hill holder it is causing a lot of problems and too much wear on the brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 Hill Holder deactivation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 (edited) Edited October 2, 2017 by Mike104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruLover20 Posted October 2, 2017 Author Share Posted October 2, 2017 Subaru Fanatic! Thank you but the clutch adjustment is not appearing for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 Hill holder is probably just adjusted too tight if it's dragging the brakes. The hill holder cable is attached below the clutch cable on the release lever. Often if the clutch cable is adjusted the hill cable is forgotten, and the hill holder ends up being too tight after adjusting the clutch. Back off the adjuster nuts on both cables so there is 1/4" slack in both. Tighten the clutch cable until you have 1/8-1/4" of free play at the end of the release lever. Operate the pedal a few times and check that the engagement point of the clutch is satisfactory. Tighten the lock nut on the clutch cable adjuster. Turn the hill holder adjusting nut until it just starts to pull against the spring on the hill holder lever. (On frame rail below the master cylinder) Test operation of the hill holder to ensure it doesn't drag. It should fully release when the clutch pedal is just before the point of clutch engagement. If the brake is still dragging when the clutch is engaged (car starts moving) the cable is too tight. The hill holder should not prevent the car from rolling forward, only from rolling backward on a hill. If the hill holder prevents the car rolling forward it is adjusted too tight. Tighten the lock nut on the hill cable after adjusting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 (edited) Hill holder is probably just adjusted too tight if it's dragging the brakes. Hill holder should NEVER activate on flat or downhill slopes. Only when the car is pointed uphill. No matter how the cable is adjusted. Are your rear springs saggy? nosed up stance? Sounds like in addition to proper cable adjustment, you may need to put a shim washer under the rear end of the hillholder assembly. This will tilt it forward and prevent it from being able to activate unless the nose of the car is truely facing "uphill" Edited October 2, 2017 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruLover20 Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 (edited) Hill holder should NEVER activate on flat or downhill slopes. Only when the car is pointed uphill. No matter how the cable is adjusted. Are your rear springs saggy? nosed up stance? Sounds like in addition to proper cable adjustment, you may need to put a shim washer under the rear end of the hillholder assembly. This will tilt it forward and prevent it from being able to activate unless the nose of the car is truely facing "uphill" Yes my dear end sags but I just can't take the hill holder anymore it's really annoying and agrivating. Edited October 3, 2017 by SubaruLover20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 (edited) Yes my dear end sags but I just can't take the hill holder anymore it's really annoying and agrivating. if it was adjusted right you would never notice it. You are judging it in non working form. Something is wrong if it's "causing alot of problems" very useful actually when working properly. It should require intent to make it engage. You'd have to set the brakes hard with the clutch down on hills. Edited October 3, 2017 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruLover20 Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 if it was adjusted right you would never notice it. You are judging it in non working form. Something is wrong if it's "causing alot of problems" very useful actually when working properly. It should require intent to make it engage. You'd have to set the brakes hard with the clutch down on hills. Well thank you for the advice but I don't like it nonetheless I'm used to my old school chevy clutch so the hill holder is wierd to me lol but I found someone who can take it out for me without affecting the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Subaru Fanatic! Thank you but the clutch adjustment is not appearing for me Reposted the link to the YouTube video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruLover20 Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 Is it unsafe to delete the hill holder without adding a return spring or should it be ok without it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Mine is secured in the open position with the cable disconnected. I just used some cable ties to hold it open Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruLover20 Posted October 6, 2017 Author Share Posted October 6, 2017 Mike 104 would you be able to present a photo of it in the open position so I know what you mean also should I install a clutch return spring if so how Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 I believe this is in the open position. I just used a tywrap to hold it here. No spring required. Not sure what you mean for the Clutch Return Spring. There is one for the pedal and one for the shift linkage. The clutch pressure plate actually returns the clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Better picture with tyrap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Better picture with tyrap this is from a newer car. 93 will look similar but the cable comes in from the front, not the back. The spring on the hillholder will hold it open. no need to use a ziptie. If you shim a washer under the back bolt of it so it's tipped forward, it will not activate as the ball will be rolled forward. there is no reason to delete the system. Other than lack of understanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruLover20 Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 The whole reason I want it deleted is because it's another thing for me to worry about and adjust I don't like the hill holder I want to feel my car roll back a little so I know that my clutch is working properly thank you mike104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 this is from a newer car. 93 will look similar but the cable comes in from the front, not the back. The spring on the hillholder will hold it open. no need to use a ziptie. If you shim a washer under the back bolt of it so it's tipped forward, it will not activate as the ball will be rolled forward. there is no reason to delete the system. Other than lack of understanding. My issue was the valve would not return to open position even with the cable disconnected causing the brakes to drag and heat up. I was able to force the valve to the open position and locked it there with a tyrap as a precaution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 (edited) My issue was the valve would not return to open position even with the cable disconnected causing the brakes to drag and heat up. I was able to force the valve to the open position and locked it there with a tyrap as a precaution. if that is what was happening that isn't your issue. like I said. It is impossible for the hill holder to "make" any pressure. it can only lock pressure by means of a check ball that rolls to the back of the HH tube when angled uphill. so it cannot hold pressure when on flat ground. furthermore, when you are decelerating, via brakeing, the ball rolls forward in the tube. it cannot hold that pressure being made. UNless there is a major problem like the pin in the holder being broken, it is Impossible for the holder to cause the brakes to drag. Mike I would suggest that you have other issues, like a stuck caliper. Or you are driving everywhere in reverse. The whole reason I want it deleted is because it's another thing for me to worry about and adjust I don't like the hill holder I want to feel my car roll back a little so I know that my clutch is working properly thank you mike104 ??? this is silly. If you want less system to worry about breaking get a bicycle. You are not understanding what it does or how it works so you are intimidated and want to remove it. there are thousands of sytems in the car working toghether all the time. this is just one more. it's easy to adjust, very seldom fails, and makes a dangerous situation, better. (what subarus do) feeling the vehichle roll backwards doesn't indicate anything about clutch condition. It just makes it so you have to slip and wear your clutch more. Edited October 7, 2017 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 so it cannot hold pressure when on flat ground.It's not supposed to but It can if its not adjusted properly and/or the check valve/internals are crudded-up from old fluid. Only time I've had trouble with one though was when the lever was sticking on a 95 that I worked on several years ago. Car was a rust bucket and had a bunch of dirt stuck in around the lever and the spring. Blasted it out with compressed air, brushed off what I could with a wire brush, soaked it with penetrating oil and worked the lever back and forth full travel a couple dozen times and it freed up just fine. Followed up with white spray grease. Haven't seen the car since then, but it worked fine when It left my hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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