Took a corner a little to fast last night and locked up the brakes. Slid and hit a curb, which did all this

 

I bent my Control arm, possibly my strut, and inner tie rod

 

The red arrows are steering parts that are bent and need but I don’t know what they are called. Anybody have a donor Wagon in/near Spokane that I could scavenge off of for not too much money? Or by chance does anybody have these parts on hand? I’m gonna look at pull n save but I don’t have much hope. Also, I am in A&P school so I’m on a pretty tight budget...

The top arrow is the E-brake cable.

 

The left arrow is the swaybar, it may be a bit bent, but it will probably still line up and work fine.

 

The 3rd arrow is the radius rod.  You will need a new one.  You will likely need a new control arm too.  You will want to inspect the radius rod mount point.  I would repalc ehte balljoint and maybe tierods on that side too.  They took a heck of a hit.

 

Sometimes when this type of thing happens, the plate in the mount that the rod goes though gets pushed back, dished in so to speak. So you may want to stack one or two large washers in there to push the rod forward to where it should be.

Lol I’m a moron. Yup that top one sure is the brake cable.

 

Yeah the control arm is twisted so gonna need a new one. Would a 1982 wagons steering components be compatible? According to the web there is one at the pull n save here in spoky....

 

Thanks for the tip about that radius rod

Edited February 26, 20188 yr by Sapper 157

So I’m gonna be doing my inner and outer tie rods in light of their current condition. Is there anything special about the inner tie rod removal I should know about? I assume it’s just like removing any other inner tie rod. I will need the inner tie rod tool right?

I have a replacement radius rod now. I took off the rubber bushings since I will be replacing them with new MOOG ones, and I found a severe amount of corrosion on the portion of the rod that is covered by the bushings. I am a little worried that if I try to remove this corrosion, that I will end of removing that whole part of the rod. Should I just leave it the way it is and install the new bushings over the corrosion? of course the other side of this is if I do that, it may end of corroding to the point of failure anyways. Thoughts?

 

Also, best method for removing control arm bushings? I have done a little searching on the forum, and it seems a lot of penetrate fluid, a propane torch, and an arbor press are in order. any other tips for getting those suckers out?

Edited March 5, 20188 yr by Sapper 157

UPDATE: okay so I decided to remove the corrosion on the rubber bushing part of the radius rod. it was pretty thick... .076" to be exact. I'm hoping that I can just weld a small section of steel tubing over the top of it to take up the lost material.