Hi all, after being on for months because of my idle air control valve, my "check engine" light went out. i'm assuming my IAC didn't clean itself, so i'm also assuming that the bulb burnt out (guess i can connect the diagnostic connections/leads/thingy to be sure...) its a 94 legacy wgn. whats involved with changing the bulb? i'd hate to never be able to pull a code again...

 

 

jared

Bad luck never comes alone! At least never for me ;-)

 

Anyhoo, you will need to remove the instrument cluster, which involves removing most of the dash and center console. Get low and you should be able to see the "hidden" screws holding things together. Most of the vents and buttons can be pulled out. Basically, it's matter of feeling your way around carefully - or getting a Haynes manual. I have the book for your model (used to own a 1990 Legacy) and it's quite comprehensive.

 

There are three things that can be difficult:

 

1) Not breaking anything on the way in

 

2) Removing the instrument cowl without scratching something. Lower the steering wheel as much as possible.

 

3) Getting the darn speedo cable connected again. It clips onto the back of the cluster and is only JUST long enough to reach, so you can't connect it before the cluster is back in place. This means reaching up from under the dash and through the wires and steering column and up behind the cluster.

 

Dealers might be able to supply a bulb-kit that will have the relevant bulbs. Otherwise have another car handy so you can shop around for a replacement. Beware that Subaru has revised the bulb types a number of times through the Legacy's lifespan, so you can't be absolutely certain until you have opened the dash.

i would check for power at he bulb, pull the coolant temp sensor wire off while the engine is running and see if the check engine light comes on, it seems kind of wierd that the check engine light bulb is burned out. this would be easier to do, than pulling the dash apart to find out the bulb is okay.

Or you can just turn the key to the on position and see if the CEL comes on. That seems even easier than removing a sensor wire, and forcing the ecu to throw a code, which you'll have to get rid of eventually.